Buzz Rickson or Real Mccoys

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by BotanPhotography, Jan 22, 2021.

  1. BotanPhotography

    BotanPhotography Familiar Face

    Messages:
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    Hey guys, me again.

    So aside from an A2, I was looking into pea coats. I wore pea coats growing up in NY, and I always loved it. I was wondering what the biggest differences (if any) are there between Buzz Ricksons Peacoat and the Real McCoys Peacoats (both WWII models).

    I seem to be able to find more specific specs on the BR version, for example, clearly stated 37oz Melton whereas the RM version just says double Melton. Urea on the BR and Ebonite for RM. Does anyone here have experience with either?
     
  2. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    No experience owning either, but i wanted to recommend you look for a real USN Kersey wool one.
    IMO i have never handled a Melton wool peacoat that felt like it was worth the money compared to a Kersey one.
    The vintage style wool is vastly superior to anything you can buy new today and they are usually cheaper too.
     
  3. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

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    Great advice. I have been tempted to get one too and I would love to find a good condition issued Kersey version. They will last a couple of lifetimes.
     
  4. dannyk

    dannyk One Too Many

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    I’m not big on military gear. Vintage or repro. Although I will admit to a budding interest. I’ve recently started eyeing some things I would never have in the past. So I’ve often heard the words Melton and Kersey but no idea what the differences are. I’ve often heard Kersey jackets are better, but again not sure why. Any insight into that Carlos?
     
  5. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    There is a thread titled “the ultimate pea coat thread”
    Prob a good place to research. Perhaps you’ll find neither is the best choice for you.
     
    BotanPhotography and dannyk like this.
  6. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Melton and Kersey are two different weaving techniques i think.
    Melton is open and airy, Kersey is much smoother and tighter.
    In wear the melton wool is not waterproof or windproof, the Kersey is.
    All vintage peacoats are Kersey, they switched to melton in the 80s, from then on peacoats were lined to make up for the poor wind resistance of Melton.
     
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  7. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

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    I also would suggest getting a vintage kersey peacoat. IMO, a kersey peacoat is what peacoat should look like.
    That is not to say kersey is a more expensive or better cloth than melton.
    My understanding is that melton is often finer and more expensive while kersey is actually made with odds and ends using a simpler process. Having said that, a peacoat should be more rugged and rigid than say your expensive melton overcoat. BR and RM tried to simulate the rigidness by using extra heavy cloth.
    IMO Kersey wool has a smoother surface and is more like a rug or old western blanket. Melton is more hairy and softer like say a baby blanket. Kersey wool has been phased out as clothing materials though they are still used to make rug and saddle cloth.
     
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  8. BotanPhotography

    BotanPhotography Familiar Face

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    Hey guys, thank you for all the advice. I'll look into getting a Kersey one. I think BR actually made a Kersey one for that movie Greyhound, according to HP.

    Would the best place to hunt for a Kersey Pea Coat be on Ebay?
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2021
  9. Gav

    Gav A-List Customer

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    Location:
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    If you are size 46, I have one for sale in the classifieds
     
  10. BotanPhotography

    BotanPhotography Familiar Face

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    Unfortunately not. Even scaling up for the vintage fitting I'd be a 42, and most likely would have to get the sleevs tailored.
     
  11. Gav

    Gav A-List Customer

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    Location:
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    I think there is still a 42 for sale in the classifieds too. I remember seeing it recently.
     
    BotanPhotography likes this.
  12. BotanPhotography

    BotanPhotography Familiar Face

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    I'll have to give it a look!
     

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