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Cambridge Bowler

TSWebster

New in Town
Messages
24
Location
Canberra, Australia
I think these are a really nice looking style of hats, but given that bowlers themselves are hard enough to find these days are there any manufacturers making new Cambridge Bowlers for sale today? Or is vintage my best shot?

My size is 7 1/2 which I have learnt in the short time I've been here is rather in demand when it scomes to vintage hats, making the search all that much harder.
 

Charlie Huang

Practically Family
Messages
612
Location
Birmingham, UK
A Cantab. bowler can only be MTO from either Lock's or Patey's. Expect to fork out a few hundred. I don't know whether Christys' would make you one but it would be cheaper than the former two.
 

Mulceber

Practically Family
Messages
753
Location
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Christy's probably would - I've heard of them being willing to change ribbons, shorten crowns, etc. so I'd imagine that it wouldn't be too much for them to make a bowler with a high crown, plateaued crown. -M
 

TSWebster

New in Town
Messages
24
Location
Canberra, Australia
Given that their website seems pretty much orientented towards wholesale and they direct you to another store for online sales I don't hold out any great hope that Christy's will make a single special order hat. However I think I'll send an email off to all three companies and see if anyone responds positively.
 

Charlie Huang

Practically Family
Messages
612
Location
Birmingham, UK
TSWebster said:
Does anyone know of the quality of Ascot Top Hats? They offer a Cambridge Bowler as a special order.

https://ascot-tophats.secure-connect.com/catalog/traditional.php

Their site has changed since the last time I checked!

As far as I know, they outsource most of their hats (except the vintage toppers) from Christys' and Herbert Johnson (and I have a feeling Patey's). They seem, looking at the new site, to also have the ability to make hats and have also expanded their range. If so, they are well worth a try.
 

Delthayre

One of the Regulars
Messages
258
Location
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Oh, hey, Canada!

I'm very interested in Cambridge Bowlers too. A friend of mine quite likes bowlers and I'm keen to some day give a Cambridge Bowler to him as a gift. I'll almost surely need to buy a newly made one as he wears a size 7 5/8 (UK 7 1/2), which is very rare in vintage hats.

TSWebster said:
Given that their website seems pretty much orientented towards wholesale and they direct you to another store for online sales I don't hold out any great hope that Christy's will make a single special order hat. However I think I'll send an email off to all three companies and see if anyone responds positively.

I don't know about the quality of their manufacturer, but I can say that the owner is very pleasant to deal with and knowledgeable.

You might also consider John McMicking. I have never ordered from him, but he has been mentioned before when Cambridge Bowlers are at issue.

John McMicking
L&H HATS
179 Melville Street
Dundas, Ontario
L9H 2A9
Phone: (905) 627-7492

He reportedly also works through History in the Making, whence one may order a 'square crown' bowler.
 

Charlie Huang

Practically Family
Messages
612
Location
Birmingham, UK
Delthayre said:
I'm very interested in Cambridge Bowlers too. A friend of mine quite likes bowlers and I'm keen to some day give a Cambridge Bowler to him as a gift. I'll almost surely need to buy a newly made one as he wears a size 7 5/8 (UK 7 1/2), which is very rare in vintage hats.



I don't know about the quality of their manufacturer, but I can say that the owner is very pleasant to deal with and knowledgeable.

You might also consider John McMicking. I have never ordered from him, but he has been mentioned before when Cambridge Bowlers are at issue.

John McMicking
L&H HATS
179 Melville Street
Dundas, Ontario
L9H 2A9
Phone: (905) 627-7492

Mr. McMicking, I've read, makes toppers the traditional way, cutting the felt and adhering it onto the shell rather than just blocking it. I would assume that he is able to to make a Cantab. bowler.

Remember that you need to have the bowler re-conformed for fit.

I have just updated by blog post on buying a topper with all this new info.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,695
Location
Central Texas
Bumping an old thread to maintain the records.

A custom Cambridge bowler from Mike Miller of the Northwest Hat Co.

20210610_083737.jpg 20210609_180233.jpg 20210609_180038.jpg 20210609_180204.jpg 20210610_083802.jpg 20210523_193929.jpg
 
Messages
17,979
Location
Nederland

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,695
Location
Central Texas
I feel very good about this one, fits well and looks great. Sadly it will be fall and cooler temps before I can get out with it very much. Thanks gents.

Spectacular hat, Randy. And a great idea for a custom. These things are super rare. Wonderful work by Mike Miller. You have every reason to look as smug as Winston:
View attachment 340700
Randy, Looks fantastic! Super Brim work. Congrats!
 
Messages
19,003
Location
Central California
Bumping an old thread to maintain the records.

A custom Cambridge bowler from Mike Miller of the Northwest Hat Co.

View attachment 340590 View attachment 340591 View attachment 340592 View attachment 340593 View attachment 340594 View attachment 340595


What separates it from a lower crown top hat? Is it the lack of a sharp 90 degree from sides to top? I know it’s not silk plush, but as Mike also makes fur felt top hats, I’m curious about the defining attributes of a Cambridge Bolwer contrasted with those of a top hat. I imagine that there comes a point when it’s closer to a top hat than a derby.

I’ve been kicking around the idea of Mike making me a top hat for some time. I like the style, but I suspect it would see little use with me. Mike’s top hats don’t the reverse taper flared tops that require the rare/expensive puzzle blocks, but I could live without that. Your gorgeous hat stirred up all my latent top hat desires: this is the best looking derbies (Cambridge or otherwise) I’ve seen.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,695
Location
Central Texas
I'll give you my opinion, Brent, but it may be far from the truth. Mike can give you the specifics (I'd be interested to know as well because I did not ask at the time). I sent Mike a picture of a Lock & Co. Cambridge, gave him my crown and brim specs and told him I DID NOT want it to look like a top hat. I suspect it is a matter of degree in finishing and perhaps the block he uses. The hat on the NW site looks to have a flare at the top edge, perhaps to give it the "appearance" of a negative taper. I suspect mine may have been made with a Gambler-ish block as it does have a very slight side taper and an ever-so-slightly rounded top. Coupled with the soft rounding between the sides and top (soft shoulders) and, wha la, a Cambridge is born. Being "less tall" is likely another part of the equation. We played with how much to lift the side brim and there was a point where it began to have the appearance of a top hat, so we pulled it back to a more moderate side lift. That's my story and I'm sticking to it :)



What separates it from a lower crown top hat? Is it the lack of a sharp 90 degree from sides to top? I know it’s not silk plush, but as Mike also makes fur felt top hats, I’m curious about the defining attributes of a Cambridge Bolwer contrasted with those of a top hat. I imagine that there comes a point when it’s closer to a top hat than a derby.

I’ve been kicking around the idea of Mike making me a top hat for some time. I like the style, but I suspect it would see little use with me. Mike’s top hats don’t the reverse taper flared tops that require the rare/expensive puzzle blocks, but I could live without that. Your gorgeous hat stirred up all my latent top hat desires: this is the best looking derbies (Cambridge or otherwise) I’ve seen.
 
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