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Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by nattevagten, Aug 9, 2020.
How about a warmer zip-out liner like the old days?
I like wool because there's so many nice tartans and checks to choose from. Cotton drill only comes in solid colors. I guess there must be some technical reason you can't get a checked cotton drill?
I once had a Schott jacket with a cotton lining with a pattern. However, the pattern was printed and the cotton wasn't drill.
No, you can also find cotton tartans. I own a leather waistcoat and a cotton harrington jacket with such a lining. Check also this:
Those are indeed cotton tartans, but they're not drill cotton. Therefore less durable.
I was going to say this. I have a trailmaster jacket with a zip out liner and its been a go-to bad weather/travel jacket for some years as if temp's change so can the jacket.
I think expecting one jacket to work in winter as well as summer on its own may be asking too much though.
IMO leather jackets are just not all that versatile temperature-wise. I would say that @Monitor is right and quilted lining is probably the best you can do IF you want to rely on just your jacket for warmth.
I wear my leather jackets down to below 0C, but I do it by layering. I have thin flannel linings in my jackets that let me wear them in 20C with just a t shirt, but I leave enough room so I can put a lot of layers on underneath. Thermal long sleeves, sweatshirts, and a scarf means the jacket lets me be comfortable below 0C. However, I need to point out that the linings don't do much to keep me warm and these are stock jackets, so I didn't choose the liner. I used to wear my silk lined jacket in the same temperatures just as easily.
I'd say that honestly go for a thin lining and layer or go for something thicker like the quilting. Don't do wool or alpaca or any of that though. Too thick and uncomfortable and not cool enough either for 17C
Leather became prized by erly aviators and later motorcyclists for its ability to provide a bit of protection against a spill, and also its wind-breaking properties. I you've ever stood out in the cold wind wearing a heavy woollen sweater and found the col goes stright through it, you'll certainly notice the difference with as layer of leather on top. In terms of keping warmth in, though, that's all about the lining. What temperatures are bearing will be very subjective to the weather you want to wear your jacket in, where you wear it (even at 50mph, it's amazing how quickly it can feel cold on the back of a motorcycle on a warm day), and your own comfort / how hot you run - everyone is different.
If you want a warm Winter coat, shearling will be the warmest, followed by blanket wool. Moleskin can also be a good, durable option, especially for sleeve lining. For something in warme weather, I'd choose a light hide like goat with a light lining like cotton or silk (I find satin / rayon linings don't breathe and sget sticky and sweaty very quickly). If you want a jacket that's wearable across as much of the year as possible, I'd go with a drill cotton lining, then adding layers when you need warmth. This approach may also determine which fit you go for: you'll need enough space in there to fit the extra layers when needed, even if you could wear a size smaller in the Summer. It requires a little thought: choose too neat a fitting and you'll only be able to wear it part of the year; put a very warm liner in a jacket cut only to go over a shirt, and there's a chance it'll end up not warm or covering enough for Winter, and too warm for most of Spring and Autumn.
Here in Perth western Australia you can ride a motorcycle all year round ( for me ONLY on the dry days, 290+/year).
It does get cold of a night here , a "desert cold" if you like , I often rode to work in 3C. Rubber face on arrival haha..
That was a 30 Km ride on open roads at up to 110Km/H. I don't do it now ( too old FFsake !)
On the way home it could be 17C by 4pm , actually quite pleasant truth be told. I had 2 Eastman Luftwaffe jackets.
One the original UK made version with the blue cotton/moleskin lining , a good warm jacket ( for the UK !)
The other an exact "replica" made here in black goat with deliberately "thinner" still cotton lining in black.
That became my "summer" jacket , temps up to 30C at a push.
Waistcoat in black suede and a long sleeve denim shirt over 30C most likely for years.
Now I have such a jacket collection ( BUT only one Indian Ocean haha..) that I can pick a jacket to suit the likely max/min
I have quilt lined Schott and Excelled café racers that are just too warm for some days here.They get "benched" in summer
Last October I went back to Scotland to see my aged mother , and with weight restriction I could take only one leather jacket , so my 3rd and now 5 year old Eastman Luftwaffe with the blue lining it was. PERFECT for all the time I was there and it was never off my back for 3 weeks+ every day all day. On return to Australia well summer had started and that jacket was "hangered" for near 4 months until April (autumn here)
Don't know if that will help ya mate , just my take on things.
Looks like it's the best option indeed. If drill cotton has worked for so many people (noticed it was recommended in other threads as well, many times), then it's probably for a good reason. The plan is to layer in colder weather like you said, and the chest measurement on that jacket allows it.
However, as for sleeves, perhaps go for sateen?
The hide will be Clayton Vintage (HH, a softer hand), I think.