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Conformateur?

Fedora

Vendor
Messages
828
Location
Mississippi
OK, I know what a conformateur is. Did you know that the Hat Book by Henderson quotes someone as saying that the conformateur was not needed when the hat being bought was the soft, conforming felt? It seems that this device was needed for stiff hats in order to get a confortable fit as the stiff hats did not conform to the head. So is it just used as a marketing tactic nowadays because the hatter had no idea the exact use for it? Is the book wrong? regards, Fedora
 

Andykev

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
4,118
Location
The Beautiful Diablo Valley
Im a non conformist on this!

The conformature was just to measure the head, when ANY custom made hat was ordered by the customer. They kept the "punch card" of your head on file for future orders. The conformature is worthless other than a nice museum piece without the other half, the "formateur". This is the part that goes inside the hat when it is given it's final flanging and sizing. Hence it will supposedly fit your specific head shape.

The "self conforming" hats, like RESISTOL, were designed with qality leather sweat and felt that was supple enough to "conform" to your head. Obviously your has size would be the same, just the quality of materials would allow the hat to more closely "conform" to your head after a few days of wearing it.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
Most of the hatters I know like
Rand's
O'farrell
and the like, mostly use them for cowboy hats, they are still a stiff breed of felt and for the most part require a good fitting.

Soft hats are okay with a conformateur in my book too, they may not nee it, though since my head points off to the right and is squared off in the front, having the hat's front center sit at my front and center is quite a task if the hat is not somehow shaped to my head.

I like the rakish look of a Fedora, though when I have it custom made I always specify my head shape so it sits without a wobble when straight on. I think a conformateur would help in making it( if not fit better) sit straighter.

Don't matter in the end, because I end up cocking it all to the side after some wear.
 

Wild Root

Gone Home
Messages
5,532
Location
Monrovia California.
Yeah, I would like to use these if I were to have a custom hat made. Just to know what size I am. I have some 7 1/8 that fit and I also have 71/4 that fit better. I also have a 7 3/8 that fit rather well. So, if I try a hat on, fits, feels good and works, then I buy it. ;)

Take it away boys. I'm done here.

Root.
 

Andykev

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
4,118
Location
The Beautiful Diablo Valley
I used to think I was a 7 1/4!!!

Root, the problem is like with shoes. One manufacturer makes a size 10 D which doesn't fit like another companies 11.

You generally CAN'T rely on hat sizes to determine your size. What I mean is you could find a 7 1/4 hat that either shrank, or someone had stretched, whatever.

You measure your head in inches with the cloth tape and divide by Pi. You can also get properly measured with a conformer.

Any good hat shop will be able to assist in this. It is true that if you went to Art's and tried on 15 vintage hats, you'd be fairly confident as to the size...law of average. But you would find a hat or two that "lied" about it's size to you!
 

Art Fawcett

Sponsoring Affiliate
Messages
3,717
Location
Central Point, Or.
Steve, you don't HAVE to have this type of conformatour but it really does help. I use the cheaper plastic ones but still use them. This one would run about $2500 where a plastic is about $140. If you are going to try to truly fit your clients, you need one. PM me & I'll fill you in more.

Art
 

Fedora

Vendor
Messages
828
Location
Mississippi
Thanks guys. No, I was not planning on using one. My hats are just Indy fedoras, with no custom fitting. Heck, if I went the whole route, I could not sell them so cheap.:D The only thing that I will offer is different crown heights and brim widths. I figure if someone wants a custom fitted hat, they need to call Art or Optimo, or GH. ;) When you start doing the custom work, you need to fetch the higher prices. Heck, you have to. regards, Fedora
 

fedoralover

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,006
Location
Great Northwest
I think I saw one of those things on the history channel a few weeks back. They were doing a show on the history of torture chambers and the devices they used to make you talk.

fedoralover
 

Andykev

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
4,118
Location
The Beautiful Diablo Valley
Can we get into conformance on this?

Fedora is correct. The conformature is something in the hat shop where you put it on the customers head. All hat shops had one. Now, thru the miracle of plastics, you can get an inexpensive one to send to you "internet customer" and then record his or her measurements.

THAT is a necessity.
 

Renderking Fisk

Practically Family
Messages
742
Location
Front Desk at The Fedora Chronicles.
Originally posted by fedoralover
They were doing a show on the history of torture chambers and the devices they used to make you talk.

fedoralover

Just keep me away from my Akubra and my scotch and stick me with Madam Hillary!

"Alright! I'll talk! I'll talk! Just get me away from this woman and bring me my lid and my bottle! I'll talk!"
 

Fedora

Vendor
Messages
828
Location
Mississippi
THAT is a necessity.


;) Well, it may be, but only for custom hats. Otherwise, the Akubras, Kepplers, HJs, Millers, PBs, Stetsons, GWs, ad nauseum would be in bad trouble. I do agree though, if you wanted a stiff hat in the shape of your head to avoid headaches, you best use one. :D I don't think most soft hats would require one, unless you just wanted to feel you were getting more for your money. The basics on fitting soft felt hats is knowing your size and head shape. i.e. oval, long oval etc. What if a guy had a knot on one side of his head. Would a current hatter make a block with a knot on the side of the block to coincide with the knotty head? I doubt it. That would push the price of a hat up at least the cost of a custom made block, and they ain't cheap. If the hatter was a block maker, with the wood working tools, he could do it. I just don't think the conformateur is a real necessity for self-conforming hats. The old hatter in that book felt the same way, unless I did not understand him. Fedora
 

Fedora

Vendor
Messages
828
Location
Mississippi
I can see how the conformateur would be handy, because it would tell you the head shape. Oval, long oval, etc. I guess this would be handy even for soft hats. Fedora
 

Octav

New in Town
Messages
1
Steve, you don't HAVE to have this type of conformatour but it really does help. I use the cheaper plastic ones but still use them. This one would run about $2500 where a plastic is about $140. If you are going to try to truly fit your clients, you need one. PM me & I'll fill you in more.

Art
Hello, i know this is an old topic,but i try to find someone who makes conformateur for hats from plastic,but i can't find anything online! Could you help me with,i need to buy one! Thank you !
 

cowboyedout

New in Town
Messages
4
Hello, i know this is an old topic,but i try to find someone who makes conformateur for hats from plastic,but i can't find anything online! Could you help me with,i need to buy one! Thank you !
Did you find the plastic ones? If so text me at 832-330-5729
 

humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,428
Location
Tennessee
Or...if you're a cheap ba***rd like me you can buy some flat clothespins, birch plywood, and hardware from the local Ace and make your own. It's crude, but quite effective. I call it the "wheel of pain".
IMG_1869.JPG
 

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