Custom Shirt with Undercurve

[Dagwood]

Inspired by Belly Tank's detachable collar and Baron Kurtz, I went to a local shirt maker and had a shirt made. After 6 work days, he produced the following:

The collar (3 1/4 inches long):

The front:

The back:

He couldn't do Matt Deckard's tails, but a really good job. Fit's great. He let me choose the fabric.

 

[Sefton]

That looks good. Do you have a vintage necktie that would help if you showed the shirt with a tie. Nice job.

 

[Dagwood]

Thanks Sefton. With tie (and stays):

Finally, a picture without the stays (my preference):

 

[Sefton]

Yes,it's best without the stays,has a more vintage look to me. :eusa_clap

 

[cookie]

Great Shirt but I want those MD curves

Congrats!

 

[scotrace]

Thanks for showing this one off Dagwood. Looks like it fits well through the body. Do you find that off-the-rack shirts tend to blouse way out over your trousers? They always seem so big around the body, even in "trim" cuts. And one reach for the book on the shelf and it's all tugged out anyway.

Henrik has had some success making his own collars. And I think I've read posts by others saying that shirts aren't that terribly difficult to make. I wonder if we could get a step-by-step tutorial going from someone here? Or maybe one of us needs to be bold and give it a shot, and share the learning curve?

Back to this shirt... Better without stays I think. Have you got any collar bars?

 

[Dagwood]

Thanks for showing this one off Dagwood. Looks like it fits well through the body. Do you find that off-the-rack shirts tend to blouse way out over your trousers? They always seem so big around the body, even in "trim" cuts. And one reach for the book on the shelf and it's all tugged out anyway.

You know how Matt Deckard feels about armholes? I feel the same way about shirts that blouse. I feel like I'm wearing an opened parachute.

I'll post pics with collar bar. Thanks to all for the kind words.

 

[cookie]

I wonder if we could get a step-by-step tutorial going from someone here? QUOTE]

Like how to starch a shirt properly????

 

[scotrace]

Just that sort of thing yes!

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Dagwood, would you mind taking a picture of the collar flapped up with the shirt flat on a table or something, so we can see the curve better?

 

[Tomasso]

Looks good!

I went to a local shirt maker.

Who did you use?

 

[Dagwood]

Who did you use?

Thanks Tomasso. I used Freddy Vandecasteele in Sherman Oaks. A really great guy.

Dagwood, would you mind taking a picture of the collar flapped up with the shirt flat on a table or something, so we can see the curve better?

Hope these pics help:

 

[Tomasso]

I used Freddy Vandecasteele

I see that you caught my recommendation. Anto would probably be a step up but so is their price-point and they have a six shirt minimum.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Hope these pics help:

They certainly do - thanks!

It's sometimes difficult to transform from 3D to 2D, unless you're a pro, I spose.

 

[Dagwood]

I see that you caught my recommendation. Anto would probably be a step up but so is their price-point and they have a six shirt minimum.

I told Freddy that someone on the Lounge had recommended him. Much thanks for the recommendation.

Freddy had no minimum and told me to try the shirt out for a couple of weeks so that I can learn what I like and don't like. I definitely plan on using him again.

 

[Jovan]

Very nice. Next time, ask him for a soft collar and no collar stays. That'll help the look immensely. Strange he wouldn't do gussets, but I've found they're not really necessary anyways. [huh]

Good going, that is one long collar! (Brooks Brothers makes their button downs about that length, 3 3/8")

 

[scotrace]

(Courtesy Veronica Parra, Lifted from old thread)

APPAREL ARTS (Christmas 1932 and June 1937).


Dress shirts (1932):

Dress shirts (1937):

 

[Benny Holiday]

Double thumbs-up, Dagwood - great fit, great fabric, and I love the collar.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

I think it looks great and I especially like the pattern. It's good to know you had a good experience with a local guy who I might eventually go to.

I also agree with others that the shirt with that collar like that looks better without the collar stays. The look just flows better with everything else around it.

Now, I look at this and I think it would still be too loose for my liking. Is that really slim-fitting enough for you and it doesn't billow out with movement?

Finally, you've definitely demonstrated, as others have as well, that undercurve is simply a must if you're going with this type of collar.

 

[Dagwood]

Now, I look at this and I think it would still be too loose for my liking. Is that really slim-fitting enough for you and it doesn't billow out with movement?

I don't recall having any billowing problems. I'll double-check once I get it back from the cleaners. Generally, shirts can shrink a little once they have gone to the cleaners a couple of times.

I'm sure that Freddy would have no problem adding darts if you would like a more slim-look.

Thanks for the compliment. I am now definitely a true believer in the power of the undercurve.