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Favorite aspects of each of your jackets

dwilson

A-List Customer
Messages
320
Location
LA
Somewhat inspired by the favorite jackets thread on TFL and a conversation in the what are you wearing thread about zips I thought this may be a fun thread to talk about if you could frankenstein together a jacket of all your favorite parts what would it be? Aplogies if this has already been done but I didn't see a thread from a quick search.

To name a few:
Body liner
Sleeve liner
Leather
Hardware
Style
Fit
Construction
Extras

For me:

Body liner: Probably my RMC Nelson. It is a midweight cotton drill that isn't too heavy but very comfortable.

Sleeve liner: My Flat Head cafe racer. It is a cotton drill but extremely silky.

Leather: Delraiser hands down. It is an extremely smooth, extremely uniform, extremely glossy leather that I love.

Hardware: Flat Head

Style: RMC Nelson. I love the simplicity and it is very wearable in a variety of situations.

Fit: Delraiser. It has wide shoulders, narrow chest and a narrow waist. Perfect for me.

Construction: Flat Head. Maybe it is RMC attempting to do it's "depression era stitching" but to me stitching faults are stitching faults. Flat Head has none.

Extras: I really love the cordoroy lining around the wrist cuffs of my Nelson. Not sure it would work on a zip-cuff moto jacket like my flat heads but its a really nice touch.
 
Messages
10,972
Location
SoCal
I love the green of my Brooks, and the cordovan/brown of my GW.

My favorite hide is on my Kehoe,
and they also angled the main zipper pin for easy zipping. Another nice touch is the Taupe tape on the sleeve zips.

My favorite cuffs come from the Ralphs-pugh, but Hercules angled the sleeve ends so the outside of your hand was covered while thumb was not.

The collar on the 40s Hercules is just about perfect, but so is the Imperial...and who can argue with the Bates.

Thedi wins for interior pocket design

Silk or rayon for body/sleeve lining- Johnson used a great one on mine.
Pockets should be in Moleskin- it feels so good when you put your cold hands in.
 
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Messages
17,070
Location
Chicago
Unknown maker for its front design/Collar and cuff:
3EA06D9A-8488-48DF-A72D-2E7CBC9C7520.jpeg
418E5166-30A5-44D6-8EA0-101BFED59426.jpeg


Windward: Tuck away flap pocket design:
B34296AD-9C8B-4AA9-AA0F-87FB1C14AA0E.jpeg


Westbury: Front yoke, collar, French seams and back design:
545F162C-78BD-48DF-9F61-30E5C85549F3.jpeg
0E8D39E8-8CDD-4725-B268-1290AA3D708F.jpeg


Vanson: Everything
87F8DAFF-0357-43ED-B058-633C1EF87707.jpeg
 
Messages
15,563
Location
East Central Indiana
20191125_145526.jpg Uh...lets see...
Body liner...Thedi's soft drill lining
Sleeve liner... Thedi's satin sleeve lining
Leather... Thedi's washed buffalo
Hardware... Thedi's zippers and snaps
Style... Thedi's cross zip
Fit... Thedi's trim sleeves and slightly tapered body
Construction...Neat stitching
Extras...Corduroy pocket and cuff lining. Leather trimmed underarm vents and inside pocket with zipper.

20190118_173542.jpg 20190214_185600.jpg 20190115_172722.jpg
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
I would choose hard tooling vegtan again for material, I find this kind of leather is the most moldable, it has very little oil content when new, so we really can wet and wear them the first time and everything will stretch and distort to mold to our body right away, after that the leather will brick so it gives me chance to really hammer in creases, once the creases are set in, I can then oil it to make it a broken in creased and molded jacket in a much shorter time.

I would use double zip with small D ring puller directly on the slider with oval/ teardrop leather pullers, and cotton drill lining, I would make sure the curved back hem should be totally over my wallet, on some of my jacket lately I have some problem with my wallet pushing against my back hem because it is just a little too short.
 
Messages
16,385
My final Walter Dyer is pretty much a perfect leather jacket for me in every single aspect.
Tough, massively heavy though soft, beautiful leather with insane patina.
Quilted, warm lining all the way throughout the jacket.
Two hand-warmers and one inside pocket, no need for more.
Fits trim all over plus it's fully adjustable with the addition of side laces.
Heavy Talon hardware.
I can't really think of anything more I would need or want.
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,259
Cool thread idea!

One thing I have to say beforehand is that I won't say "fit" for any of these. I am thrilled with how all of these fit. That's a cop out answer for me. That's something I like about all of them, especially the shorter ones.

RMC Cooper: Favorite aspect is definitely the style/design
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Freewheelers Caboose: Favorite aspect is the leather- the color, grain, etc of this particular leather is just incredible
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Freewheelers Lot. 667: Favorite aspect is the way the whole thing comes together - the roughout leather, the color, the design, the lack of handwarmer pockets - just came together perfectly. I know this is a cop out, but this is the best way I can describe what I like best about this jacket
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Freewheelers Bodie: Favorite aspect is the combination of the deerskin leather with the full flannel lining. It's insanely comfortable.
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Mister Freedom Campus Stallion: Favorite aspect is the overall design along with how light the leather is, allowing me to wear it in warmer weather. This jacket is just so beautifully designed.
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jeo

One Too Many
Messages
1,792
Location
Philadelphia
Design/Style: Hercules
Pattern: Himel Frobisher
Leather: Himel or Goodwear's shinki. Any color
Hardware: Flathead
Body liner: FCL Leon quilt liner (probably the nicest liner I've ever experienced on a jacket)
Sleeve liner: The liner in my FH jacket, whatever it is
 
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