I feels tighter right under the armpits and to the anteiror deltoids. Feels like i have a straps from school bags when i have some layers on. I think the thight armholes is pushing all the loose material from the underneath layer.Move the 40 on, it's just too small for you.
About the 42, where is the first place you feel the restrictive tightness, is it the chest, or armpit or upper sleeve?
I think it would be most beneficial if you could try on a size 40 in the 50s pattern, the one with 24" P2P, 22" hem,
And also try a size 46 premier pattern, or the one 24" P2P.
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I usually advise going direct to save money on Aero jackets, but I do think in your case it is worth while to go through TB, just to try on the different fits jacket they have in stock in the US. One of these fits will give you what you want in the correct size, I just don't know which one.
In theory the 50s pattern block will solve your tight torso issue because it's one size bigger at the chest than your Maxwell in 42, but it has the similar sleeve attachment and that may be the tightness culprit on your Maxwell, I am not sure.
The premier pattern block in big enough size will have the room to clear you in the torso, and it's better mobility sleeves will get rid of the angled shoulders, but it has the narrower vintage sized collar, in theory sizing up will also size up, by how much I don't know, I can go measure my work coat later to find out.
But it would be easiest if you could just try on the two other different Aero patterns blocks with more room in the chest P2P. Which brings me back to my first question, where do you first feel the tightness, chest, pits or upper sleeve. Because the action back do give the illusion of a larger sized (P2P) jacket, but it doesn't make the upper sleeve feel bigger.
Also you've got jerky hide on the Maxwell right?
24" P2P in premier fit (I think that means size 46). The larger P2P will solve the armpit. The premier wider angle attachment sleeve shoulder give you more room feeling in the shoulder caps. These are my guesses, and I hope it will work for you.I feels tighter right under the armpits and to the anteiror deltoids. Feels like i have a straps from school bags when i have some layers on. I think the thight armholes is pushing all the loose material from the underneath layer.
And I got both in CXFQHH - tumbled.
And do you think TB will send 2 fit jackets rather than 1?
Do they even make a premier maxwell? and will 46 be too big in the torso?24" P2P in premier fit (I think that means size 46). The larger P2P will solve the armpit. The premier wider angle attachment sleeve shoulder give you more room feeling in the shoulder caps. These are my guesses, and I hope it will work for you.
CXL FQHH is a good choice, you're a big guy you can handle it. Best leather in the world for those who don't mind it.
Talk to them (TB) I don't know how they work, but they have jackets stocked in the US, so that's the biggest plus.
I think the 46 premier Maxwell will work for you. If not, there is always Johnson, you'd have to fly there to meet them though. A customized M200 with buttons and size 44 or 46 in CXL will work for you, comes down to how you want the look.
Do they even make a premier maxwell? and will 46 be too big in the torso?
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Torso you can always custom taper one size down to get the same hem width as your current Maxwell, which is 22”.
Tight shoulder cap - more room in upper sleeve should get this resolved. Thats my Aero trucker underneath the Maxwell, it has the widest angled sleeves. You can see at rest position there’s more room where your shoulder cap would go. My Hooch Hauler which is a premier jacket is very similar but slimmer sleeves and skinny neck which I don’t recommend.
I still think if you want another redo, it would be best to get some help from Thurston.
Aero can build you a customized Maxwell to fit your needs, I am guessing at the ways to get there. Probably best to leave it up to the pros.
You already know exactly what you need/want, bigger shoulder cap space, and more room in chest, and same hem (I assume). I don’t think bigger cap space has to do with wider shoulder width but more about the upper sleeves. And more chest room is easy just go up one size and taper down to get same hem. Whether it’s a 46 premier Maxwell tapered down or a 44 30s Maxwell with different sleeves, I don’t know the exact ordering lingo. You could try going direct with Aero again with all this info without a fit jacket, or through TB where they would send you what they think is the best fitting one based on these info. I’ve experienced similar situation before, I’m on my third cafe racer, my current one is two sizes bigger than my first one, and with a full action back. So I get it. You have more solid info than I did.