Five Star Leather Jackets

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead, Sep 23, 2020.

  1. ton312

    ton312

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    10,597
    Location:
    Chicago
    I dropped 2” from the neck hole diameter. I have to thank MrProper for helping call attention to areas I would have otherwise taken for granted or ignored.
     
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  2. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,212
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    SoCal
    There should be a downloadable doc from Five Star that asks for all these little detailed measurements when custom sizing/ ordering!
    This is the only way to get it right!
    As customers, we shouldn’t be expected to come up with all this on our own... it’s like when BK were making huge sleeve openings, and then defended it by saying we forgot to modify that part.
     
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  3. ton312

    ton312

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    10,597
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    I think the hard part is each pattern is different but I agree. Something where the size block can be modified/altered from whatever the “standard” is.
     
  4. MrProper

    MrProper A-List Customer

    Messages:
    375
  5. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead One of the Regulars

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    163
    that's amazing, Ton. He's been working on that for like what, a week?

    what leather did you go with? Can't tell if that's steer? And color?

    I can't wait to get my jacket next few days. I want to confirm some measurements, but more so confirm I like the leather (or the samples). I did a lot of research into J100 and think I got it nailed with all the photos, design notes, etc. Would love to have 5* give it a try.
     
    ton312 likes this.
  6. ton312

    ton312

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    10,597
    Location:
    Chicago
    Seal Brown goat this time. I’m interested to see the difference between this and the cow.
     
    Jin431 likes this.
  7. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead One of the Regulars

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    163
    ah cool. let us know. Premium one, right?
     
  8. ton312

    ton312

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    10,597
    Location:
    Chicago
    Yep. Thickest available:)
     
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  9. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,282
    Location:
    London
    Fit pics comparing both when it arrives please!
    I might be crazy but to me they look like two different jackets...
    The back panel geometry is different, the sleeves are implented differently and have a different curve, the epaulettes look like standard A2 epaulettes, the collar has a different angle compared to the lapel...

    I'm really curious to see how the differences affect the fit.


    @MrProper i have been dreaming of a toggle lock jacket since i saw them on that old D-1 a while back, i really look forward to seeing yours too.
     
  10. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,597
    Location:
    Chicago
    Agreed there are some distinct differences, most notably the collar angle. Wish I could do a fit compare...the original was a size 38” from eBay that I screen grabbed!
     
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  11. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Location:
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    Oh, i thought the OG was one of the vintage jackets you had bought recently, my bad.
     
  12. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,597
    Location:
    Chicago
    Man I wish. Had that been my size I highly doubt this jacket would’ve even been a thought.
     
  13. MrProper

    MrProper A-List Customer

    Messages:
    375
    me too *lol*

    I hope the jacket will be as good as this old D1, even if it will of course still look too new.
    And hopefully I have taken the right measurements and they will be kept.
    Always exciting.
     
  14. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    163
    Drum roll please. Eagle has landed. The Mr. Proper/Amelia Earhart/G1 special.

    Overall, I'm pretty pleased. Thank you to Mr. Proper because I think my creation would have gone sideways very quickly without having his reference points. There's a lot of details you can't assume.

    Leather (prem steer seal)-- it's hard to tell at this point. Definitely needs a good 40 hours break in to see how it starts to drape and distresses, but looks promising. Soft to touch, little stretchy. Nice grain already. But not as thick as I was expecting. I think others have said it, but the leather is good quality, but is kind of "blah".

    Build. Stitches look clean, zipper straight (maybe a bigger zipper size next time), knitting in good shape. Lining is great going from cotton in body to satin in sleeves. All good.

    Fit. Overall, it fits really well. My biggest mistake was probably sleeve length. I need to reference some photos, but I think I should have went a little longer so the leather end hits closer to the wrist and the knitting tucks in more. Don't know if that's a preference thing or actually how it's supposed to be, but it feels like I could have used another .5 inch on the sleeve length. Probably could use a .25 more on my shoulders and a .25 less on my abdomen area, but it's pretty snug. Was a little worried about the length based on what some of you had said, but it's good for me. Maybe a .25 less if I had to do over again. The sleeve taper is pretty aggressive from bicep to forearm. I might play with that next time.

    The verdict. I ended up paying an extra $30 bucks twice for changes, one my fault, the other was kind of their fault but lost in communication sort of thing. So was $330. At $330, I'm pretty happy. I'd be more happy at $270 :)

    Would I do again? Need to think about it more. If it's creating something from scratch and mixing/matching some styles and ideas in my head, I think so. It was fun to design something and see it come to life.

    If I was buying one of their off the shelf models and just adjusting for size, for sure. You can probably get a very nice jacket for $250 or less.

    If it's trying to replicate a "known" jacket for cheap (i.e. having them build a complete knock off of a high end brand), probably not. I think the $300ish is better off going into what you want and getting the higher end leather and craftsmanship that comes with it.

    Other info. From the leather samples he sent me, I'd probably go with Black Goat next. Good grain, thick, feels good. The Goat Cognic (sic) is interesting too if they have in thicker size. The sample was too thin, but the color is more caramel than the very light tan you see on their website. The Goat Seal semi veg has got great tea core potential, but it's super stretchy. Make sure you accommodate for size breaking in. He never sent me distressed goat or buffalo, so no clue.

    [​IMG]
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  15. Hobbes1

    Hobbes1 Familiar Face

    Messages:
    60
    Looks very good! I like the contrasting stitching as well. I would possibly have the sleeves just a bit longer as you say, but it doesn't look bad at all. Well done!
     
  16. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    163
    just noticed how the photo has it really contrasting. Maybe how sun was hitting it. It's a little more subtle in person. I went with olive against the seal brown.

    yeah, I looked at a bunch of photos. Seems like some people have the sleeve come down more and use less knit, but others have like I have. Another .5 inch next time for sure for my tastes.​
     
  17. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,597
    Location:
    Chicago
    I think it looks great and the collar adjustment on your part was a good call. Hopefully my Halfbelt lands tomorrow and I can update here as well. In general though I think your thoughts echo mine to a T.
     
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  18. Jin431

    Jin431 A-List Customer

    Messages:
    329
    Location:
    Bay Area CA

    Looks good on you! I agree with the sleeves maybe needing a little bit more length. You are also correct with the seal goatskin being a little stretchy, the waist/hem on my trucker stretched but in a good way as I had listed it half an inch slimmer than my denim jacket. Great assessment overall, still a good deal if you know what you are after.
     
  19. CBI

    CBI One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,264
    Location:
    USA
    looking great
     
  20. Bahabp100

    Bahabp100 Familiar Face

    Messages:
    81
    It looks pretty solid and pretty great
    fit looks fine especially if you only off by .25 or .5 here and there
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2020 at 3:32 AM

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