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Freewheelers vs. The Real McCoys vs. Vanson Cross Zip Jackets

tmitchell59

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7,521
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Illinois
I fall into the functional category- both in build and fit of the jacket. No need to chase perfection, in anything. Good enough always wins out in the end, no matter the endeavor. I was told almost two decades ago, while the adversary is devising the perfect plan, I’m rolling my tanks over their ass with my good enough plan lol. I believe that.

Another, Amen Brother
 

dwilson

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320
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LA
Pretty late here but I think the La Brea looks really good. Maybe I'm just someone too set in my ways but I couldn't imagine really digging something to just have people on a forum say "No actually its not good" and then starting to agree. If you feel good wearing the jacket who gives a damn if the shoulder is 0.25" too big.
 

Blackadder

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3,827
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China
How is the FW LaBrea too elegant? I'd say it's exactly as elegant as the original Leathertogs. Same French seams, same flannel lining, same ornamental hardware, same stitch count, same generous upper sleeves etc etc. Or am I missing something? OK they didn't have Shinki Leather back in the 1930's, I'll give you that.

View attachment 415297 View attachment 415298
Agree. I think those early leather jackets are often tailor made. Like Leathertogs, Peter's Tailors. Or in small batches like early Buco. Those were made by proper craftsman with better attention and more time. Even the Beck 333 and Hercules supposedly "mass" produced in factory was small scale comparatively. Then price dropped demand rose, everything turned. You can see in Sears' thread the "evolution" of the Sears D pocket.
The 50-60s jackets we often see here are in fact mostly mass produced. I was surprised by how light weight one of my 50s Sears is. I am not much for heavy leather and I own all those "light weight" RM, FW so when I say light weight it is compared to even the Japanese repros. IMO, 60s is often even worse with many makers using cheaper leather (not referring to weight but poorly tanned and dyed). IMO most 60s ones are not worth any "vintage" mark up. There are of course always exception.
But then we are lucky that the leather jacket market in general is not crazy like the denim workwear ones. They are talking about paying thousands for a pair of 50s worn Levi's which are made in poorly equipped factory by underpaid seamtress. If the vintage leather jacket market is as crazy as that, the repros' price would seem very reasonable if not tempting.
 

El Marro

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Sorry Will. You and I are the biggest poseurs of all. Especially me. I wasn’t even alive when 90% of my jackets were made. I work in an office and if I didn’t lift everyday my hands would be as soft as a babies bare ass.
Yet here I go strutting around like it’s 1945 and I’m a jazz musician/ iron worker.
Things are tough all over. I do work in the construction trades and wearing a leather jacket onto the job these days gets me plenty of funny looks. I don’t mind though, I’ve always been a bit goofy and now my wardrobe reflects that fact.
 

dudewuttheheck

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4,341
I think you need to handle them physically to figure out what you want
No. I don't like the designs. If I don't how they look, it doesn't matter if they feel good on me. I won't like them. I have owned stuff that fits me well, but have sold because I don't like the designs. I have never regretted those decisions.

I agree there are certain benefits of wearing something in person, but basic design is not one of them for me. Look at my RMC Cooper. That jacket fit me ridiculously well, but I could just never get over the leather. I knew before I bought it that I hated the leather. I sold it because I couldn't get over the look and I don't regret it.

I'm not down on Thedi overall. I recommend them to many people and respect them massively, but none of their designs come even close to connecting with me.
 

Mich486

One Too Many
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1,687
I feel the same about Thedi.

Amazing craftsmanship and finishing but just never saw one I wanted to own.

I don’t know why but I find that there is almost a disconnect between the design and the overall look and feel of the jackets. Especially for the more vintage Americana inspired designs I don’t think it works.
Maybe it’s the distressing, the waxing etc. don’t know… I associate that kind of finishing to artisanal leather goods (bags, belts, etc.) that you can find in many market stalls in Italy during the summer holidays.
 

Marc mndt

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7,084
I dont like any of their designs for me personally. I've tried to want one, but I just don't.
Theodoros can make you something like this but nicer. Shawl collar, trucker collar, patch pockets, handwarmer pockets, whatever you desire. I'm thinking 'unwashed' Italian horsehide. Arm creases guaranteed :)

DDD346E7-A7F8-4AD4-88A1-C8CFA2B22ECD.jpeg
 
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El Marro

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California
Look at my RMC Cooper. That jacket fit me ridiculously well, but I could just never get over the leather. I knew before I bought it that I hated the leather. I sold it because I couldn't get over the look and I don't regret it.
That embossed leather was really awful. Especially when you consider that it was made from Shinki horsehide and probably would have been much nicer if they had just sewn t up unmolested.
 

red devil

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That embossed leather was really awful. Especially when you consider that it was made from Shinki horsehide and probably would have been much nicer if they had just sewn t up unmolested.

They probably used hides that had scars and other damage? I wouldn't think they would use a completely unblemished hide to emboss... would they?
 

El Marro

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They probably used hides that had scars and other damage? I wouldn't think they would use a completely unblemished hide to emboss... would they?
Something tells me they would, call it a gut feeling. Since they are in the habit of receiving the best that Shinki has to offer I feel like they probably sacrificed some nice leather to make those jackets.
On the other hand I could be totally wrong about this.
 

Canuck Panda

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4,349
I think that was their attempt to make their own (Shinki) Russian Calf which is advertised as a premium in high end shoes.
I don’t get it but they just cost (a lot) more like Louis Vuitton Epi leather.
66602E1C-C6C7-4950-81F5-86641047BDCE.jpeg
 

Marc mndt

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7,084
I don’t know why but I find that there is almost a disconnect between the design and the overall look and feel of the jackets. Especially for the more vintage Americana inspired designs I don’t think it works.
Maybe it’s the distressing, the waxing etc.
I think it's the 'wash' treatment you're referring to. The treatment is optional. This is what a vintage Americana inspired Thedi design in Italian hh without the treatment looks like:

EA84A8FA-FD30-4BCC-8433-159E3BCF9007.jpeg
55EBC51C-6B08-4A26-89E2-6061D3A1AB1A.jpeg

Photocredits: @Kuro

Also note the Labrea / Leathertogs style D pocket :)
 

dudewuttheheck

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Theodoros can make you something like this but nicer. Shawl collar, trucker collar, patch pockets, handwarmer pockets, whatever you desire. I'm thinking 'unwashed' Italian horsehide. Arm creases guaranteed :)

View attachment 415400
Ao you're you're saying I could customize a design? That would be more tempting I admit. That said, I really wouldnt want this design or anything like it. I sold this jacket despite how well it fit because I didn't love the design in leather for me.
That embossed leather was really awful. Especially when you consider that it was made from Shinki horsehide and probably would have been much nicer if they had just sewn t up unmolested.
Agreed. It's the most frustrating thing to me. That jacket in a regular black or dark brown ahinki would be absolutely jaw dropping. Their de is ion to use that stupid embossed leather is infuriating beyond words.
Something tells me they would, call it a gut feeling. Since they are in the habit of receiving the best that Shinki has to offer I feel like they probably sacrificed some nice leather to make those jackets.
On the other hand I could be totally wrong about this.
Possibly, but either way it's a deliberate decision that they think is best..best... which is actually worse if you think about it. I talked to a dealer and asked if they would ever even consider making it in a normal(good) leather and they said no. This is a very connected dealer for the record so my assumption is that mccoys actually think that this garbage embossed leather is a tally cool in some way. To me, it's worse if they're ruining perfectly good shinki to turn into this embossed monstrosity.... sorry for the rant, I'm just angry that they ruined what should be the absolute perfect jacket for me.
 

Marc mndt

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7,084
That said, I really wouldnt want this design or anything like it. I sold this jacket despite how well it fit because I didn't love the design in leather for me.
Ok, tastes can evolve over time. I remember back when I joined this forum seeing people wearing mc jackets with side laces and thinking to myself "I would never ever wear a jacket like that". Now I own one and I love it.

But I thought you have always loved cossack style jackets. I quote the review on the MF cossack you wrote nine months ago:

"I love it even more than when I bought it so I know I made the right choice. The short length is fantastic, the style is great, the pattern is wonderful, and the leather is much nicer than I was expecting. Cossack jackets are a favorite of mine. I had a Himel one and currently have two moleskin ones from Oooe Yofuketenthat I adore and this one slots in nicely with those two. "

And now you're saying you really wouldn't want this design or anything like it. What happened?


Ao you're you're saying I could customize a design? That would be more tempting I admit.

As long as it's within limits, yes you can: note the Thedi cafe racer with d pocket in the post above ^^.
 

dudewuttheheck

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Ok, tastes can evolve over time. I remember back when I joined this forum seeing people wearing mc jackets with side laces and thinking to myself "I would never ever wear a jacket like that". Now I own one and I love it.

But I thought you have always loved cossack style jackets. I quote the review on the MF cossack you wrote nine months ago:

"I love it even more than when I bought it so I know I made the right choice. The short length is fantastic, the style is great, the pattern is wonderful, and the leather is much nicer than I was expecting. Cossack jackets are a favorite of mine. I had a Himel one and currently have two moleskin ones from Oooe Yofuketenthat I adore and this one slots in nicely with those two. "

And now you're saying you really wouldn't want this design or anything like it. What happened?




As long as it's within limits, yes you can: note the Thedi cafe racer with d pocket in the post above ^^.
I do love them, but they never seem to work out for me as leather jackets. That said, something like this could work for me in brown I suppose. I have a weird relationship with leather cossack jackets. My moleskin cossack by ooe yofukuten is my favorite non-leather jacket. I do maintain that the mf campus fit me really well. I'd probably be better off with the natural one.
 

willyto

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1,616
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Barcelona
I do love them, but they never seem to work out for me as leather jackets. That said, something like this could work for me in brown I suppose. I have a weird relationship with leather cossack jackets. My moleskin cossack by ooe yofukuten is my favorite non-leather jacket. I do maintain that the mf campus fit me really well. I'd probably be better off with the natural one.
There is also a brown one. I much prefered the look of that one over the natural.
 

red devil

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3,902
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London
I think that was their attempt to make their own (Shinki) Russian Calf which is advertised as a premium in high end shoes.
I don’t get it but they just cost (a lot) more like Louis Vuitton Epi leather.
View attachment 415437

It comes with a good story, having been found from sea wreck and all... That being said the original Russian calf was not embossed if memory serves.
Possibly, but either way it's a deliberate decision that they think is best..best... which is actually worse if you think about it. I talked to a dealer and asked if they would ever even consider making it in a normal(good) leather and they said no. This is a very connected dealer for the record so my assumption is that mccoys actually think that this garbage embossed leather is a tally cool in some way. To me, it's worse if they're ruining perfectly good shinki to turn into this embossed monstrosity.... sorry for the rant, I'm just angry that they ruined what should be the absolute perfect jacket for me.

You could get another maker to do it for you in the leather of your choosing.
 
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17,291
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Chicago
I do love them, but they never seem to work out for me as leather jackets. That said, something like this could work for me in brown I suppose. I have a weird relationship with leather cossack jackets. My moleskin cossack by ooe yofukuten is my favorite non-leather jacket. I do maintain that the mf campus fit me really well. I'd probably be better off with the natural one.
I have a weird relationship with anything with a shawl collar. I sold two full counts because of it. I just couldn’t get comfortable with it. I love the way it looks but can’t find much peace wearing one. I have been tempted a million times to try one I’m leather but am sincerely glad I have not. Just can’t do it. FWIW, I think yours looked brilliant. Outstanding fit.
 

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