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Homburg Nation

fabiovenhorst

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,057
Location
Gaspar - SC - Brazil
Vintage Ramenzoni Carteira homburg... age unknown... I suspect, 1940s or 1950's
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Update: I took this picture outdoors to show the true color of the contrasting ribbon...
WhatsApp Image 2020-04-28 at 08.53.11.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Vintage Ramenzoni Carteira homburg... age unknown... I suspect, 1940s or 1950's
View attachment 231131 View attachment 231132 View attachment 231133 View attachment 231134 View attachment 231135 View attachment 231136 View attachment 231137
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Update: I took this picture outdoors to show the true color of the contrasting ribbon...
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Wonderful homburg, Fabio. It can take its place in the homburg nation with pride.
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Vintage Ramenzoni Carteira homburg... age unknown... I suspect, 1940s or 1950's
View attachment 231131 View attachment 231132 View attachment 231133 View attachment 231134 View attachment 231135 View attachment 231136 View attachment 231137
View attachment 231138
Update: I took this picture outdoors to show the true color of the contrasting ribbon...
View attachment 231329
Liked this one on Facebook. Such a nice form and finish. Large and in charge Fabio!

I do not believe I posted this here...another British example I picked up. James Robinson and Sons. It is black and it is quite imposing......one of my favorites.
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Love an English 'Berg. That liner tip is really nice. Everyone needs a few black homburgs! Love this one Mark.
 

fabiovenhorst

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,057
Location
Gaspar - SC - Brazil
That is a great looking homburg. I’ve been keeping an eye out for a Ramenzoni, but they are extremely rate in the US. Thanks for sharing this with us.
They are rare here in Brazil as well... the original ones, at least, are very hard to come by in good condition. The factory was founded in 1894 and closed in 1971 and the brand name was sold to Chapéus Cury. Most of the vintage ones I see are post 1972. I only buy pre 1971 Ramenzonis because there was plenty of models back then. After Cury bought the rights to the Ramenzoni brand, they made only a few models with the brand, mostly fedoras.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,367
Location
Denmark
Fantastic Ramenzoni, Fabio.

That is one great box, too. Not the Ramenzoni's is it?

Vintage Ramenzoni Carteira homburg... age unknown... I suspect, 1940s or 1950's
View attachment 231131 View attachment 231132 View attachment 231133 View attachment 231134 View attachment 231135 View attachment 231136 View attachment 231137
View attachment 231138
Update: I took this picture outdoors to show the true color of the contrasting ribbon...
View attachment 231329
Uh
 

Kuro

Practically Family
Messages
715
Quick question about Homburg brims I have been meaning to ask for some time now. I enjoy homburgs and I have two Stetsons, one a 40's Royal and one a 30's Special. They both are wonderful... But they both lack something I see in some Homburgs, but not all.

Basically I am wondering in what periods the brims would curl down in the front and rear but increase on the sides, much like the D'Orsay curl of a Derby? And if I want one that has a shape-able felt, what should I be looking for?

My Stetson Royal is wonderful, and has the brim style I enjoy, but the felt crown can not change shape.

My Stetson Special is one amazing hat, the felt crown can be shaped any way I like, but the brim is just an evenly curled circle which does not look as nice on me (in my opinion compared to the D'Orsay style brim curl).

Did Borsalino or Stetson make a Homberg with a D'Orsay Curl and a shape-able crown? Knox? What should I be looking for?

Thanks!

P.S. I found this on Etsy, thoughts? I guess I could post this on the Borsalino Brotherhood as well...

https://www.etsy.com/listing/610830366/vintage-mens-borsalino-homberg-hat-rome

P.P.S. bad photo of the Stetson Royal purchased from Steur. Wonderful hat!

20190215_143123.jpg
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Quick question about Homburg brims I have been meaning to ask for some time now. I enjoy homburgs and I have two Stetsons, one a 40's Royal and one a 30's Special. They both are wonderful... But they both lack something I see in some Homburgs, but not all.

Basically I am wondering in what periods the brims would curl down in the front and rear but increase on the sides, much like the D'Orsay curl of a Derby? And if I want one that has a shape-able felt, what should I be looking for?

My Stetson Royal is wonderful, and has the brim style I enjoy, but the felt crown can not change shape.

My Stetson Special is one amazing hat, the felt crown can be shaped any way I like, but the brim is just an evenly curled circle which does not look as nice on me (in my opinion compared to the D'Orsay style brim curl).

Did Borsalino or Stetson make a Homberg with a D'Orsay Curl and a shape-able crown? Knox? What should I be looking for?

Thanks!

P.S. I found this on Etsy, thoughts? I guess I could post this on the Borsalino Brotherhood as well...

https://www.etsy.com/listing/610830366/vintage-mens-borsalino-homberg-hat-rome

P.P.S. bad photo of the Stetson Royal purchased from Steur. Wonderful hat!

View attachment 232129
I don't think there's a straightforward answer to that question, James. Homburgs come in many, many varieties. I haven't seen a certain brand or a certain period where the brim of the homburg, if it was called that at all, has that properties. The very early ones display a good amount of front to back curve, like this one on Edward VII. The crown has loads of taper though.
edward vii.jpg


I find that some homburgs have more shellac in the felt and are therefore stiffer than others. If that is the case it's a lot easier to create that curve yourself. I do like the front to back curve in my homburg hats as well and try to make that more pronounced when I steam them: the front and back come down and the sides go up and inwards. This Saks hat is a good example:
before
sakss2.jpg


after
saks_04.jpg

The front view of the hat changes as well of course:
saks_06.jpg


There is in my experience no way of telling which hats have just enough shellac in the felt to allow this kind of shaping.
 

Kuro

Practically Family
Messages
715
Too bad. I see variations of the brim on Homburgs and figured it was a style of the times.

Good to know that some can be shaped the way I enjoy. Perhaps that is what I see in some hats.

I might grab that Borsalino, the owner says the crown is shape-able, unless someone here can convince me otherwise.
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Picked this up last week. Unfortunately not my size.
Gallinat homburg in brown. Size 57 with the brim at 6cm and the crown 11cm at the center dent. despite the French sounding name, I'm fairly certain it's German made. The "rein haar" and "handarbeit" are indications of the German manufacture. There's no other label inside the hat besides the size label. It was sold by Rottaler Huthaus, Eggenfelden, Germany. I have another Gallinat in my collection and I've seen another once, but it's not a brand that's seen often. Weighs 133 grams, with a very nice hand to the (very soft) felt.
Too wide for me alas.

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,657
Location
Central Texas
A beauty!

Picked this up last week. Unfortunately not my size.
Gallinat homburg in brown. Size 57 with the brim at 6cm and the crown 11cm at the center dent. despite the French sounding name, I'm fairly certain it's German made. The "rein haar" and "handarbeit" are indications of the German manufacture. There's no other label inside the hat besides the size label. It was sold by Rottaler Huthaus, Eggenfelden, Germany. I have another Gallinat in my collection and I've seen another once, but it's not a brand that's seen often. Weighs 133 grams, with a very nice hand to the (very soft) felt.
Too wide for me alas.

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Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Baronet homburg in black nutria. Size 55 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Like I need another black homburg that isn't even my size, but it was the nutria felt that attracted me to it anyway. First time I've seen a black nutria homburg. And it doesn't disappoint; great hand to the felt. Actually Italian made and judging by liner, size tag and label I would guess it was made by Cervo.
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