Impact of no label on vintage leather jacket values

[Vince in Philly]

I have a general question about vintage leather jacket prices. I know some brand names (Hercules, Aero, etc.) have a certain intrinsic value. But what about jackets of similar style and condition with no label where the manufacturer is unknown? Does this decrease the potential value of an otherwise desirable jacket?

 

[Peacoat]

The short answer, IMO, is yes, of course it does.

 

[handymike]

Definitely!
So does an incorrect zipper replacement.

 

[nick123]

This one is bothering me to no end. I feel the missing label in this instance detracts big time from the jacket. I'd still shell out 600 for it regardless though!
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-EAST-...Stash-Pocket-Size-XL-/162026774357?nav=SEARCH

 

[rocketeer]

It shouldn't matter, of course not. But unfortunately it does. Really we the buyers have made it like this simply because we want things cheaper so will use this to get the price down.
If it's a cool looking garment does it make it un cool for something you cannot really see? Greed says "Yes" I suppose.

 

[robrinay]

This one is bothering me to no end. I feel the missing label in this instance detracts big time from the jacket. I'd still shell out 600 for it regardless though!
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-EAST-...Stash-Pocket-Size-XL-/162026774357?nav=SEARCH

Careful - with a 22" chest it's not an XL and I wonder how he measured the sleeves to come up with 28"

 

[Monitor]

And what about a garment that's easy to identify, regardless of the missing brand label? Like in example, a Lewis Leathers that's missing the inside label but still has the outside LL patch and obviously is an LL beyond any doubt? Would that decrease its value?

 

[Edward]

And what about a garment that's easy to identify, regardless of the missing brand label? Like in example, a Lewis Leathers that's missing the inside label but still has the outside LL patch and obviously is an LL beyond any doubt? Would that decrease its value?

I'd say yes, because a missing label is something that detracts from condition - a mint jacket being something that looks 'as-new', with label and everything intact. However, if the provenance is not in question (i.e. clearly a genuine Lewis Leathers / Aviakit and not one of th many, similar jackets that were available in the UK at the time), this won't hit the overall value of the jacket to the same extent as itg simple being an unidentifiable-maker jacket.

In theory, a great jacket should be a grt jacket should be a great jacket, but all done and said, brand does matter - whether you're someone who wants a genuine Lewis jacket, or relies on a brand for its original purpose, being am arker of known origin and therefore a known quantity in the quality stakes.

Interestingly, per conversations elsewhere on Lewis, I've just turned up this little gem:

http://www.ringbell.co.uk/museum/lew01.htm

It seems that while, by the late eighties / early nineties Lewis Leathers were making jackets that really aren't what they had classically been doing, there is also another pretender out there donig wholly different jackets and just branding them "Lewis"....

 

[Vince in Philly]

Maybe I should start a separate thread for this related question, but are there any print or web based price guides out there for vintage leather jackets?

 

[Carlos840]

And what about a garment that's easy to identify, regardless of the missing brand label? Like in example, a Lewis Leathers that's missing the inside label but still has the outside LL patch and obviously is an LL beyond any doubt? Would that decrease its value?

In the end, something is only worth what someone is ready to pay for it!

If a missing label has no importance to you, and you are happy to pay a price that doesn't represent a missing label, then go for it.
But i understand that some people, me included, will not want to pay the same price for a jacket with and without tag.

 

[technovox]

A provenance of a piece, whether it’s a jacket or art or design, definitely adds to the price. The label, original zippers, snaps and hardware on a jacket help to tell the origin and date of manufacture, and to a collector that’s all important information and part of the value.

However, I’ve owned several Harley Sportster horsehide Café Racers without the label- fortunately the design is so distinctive, that I knew instantly that they were Harleys. And since the price was very reasonable, and I’m the one wearing them, the label wasn’t as important. Likewise, I’ve purchased several Cal Leathers motorcycle jackets without a label.
But I've found that the general rule of thumb is that if there’s a label on them, the price typically goes up.

 

[Monitor]

Huh, interesting points. I never really thought the missing label would affect the price if there's no doubt about the origin of the jacket but it would make sense someone would prefer their vintage jacket to be complete. I personally don't care for the label as long as I am sure of the maker - but then again, I don't really care much for the brand either, if the jacket is exactly what I want. But I see what you mean. Makes sense.

I discovered most of these old brands by going after a certain style I liked first, like Kehoe, Reed, Becks, etc.

 

[Dinerman]

In my experience, no label cuts the value in half. If it's a desirable or recognizable maker, it can cut it even more. It's not just true of jackets. A Stetson hat marked open road will sell for double an identical Stetson without the model name on the sweatband. People like having something recognizable and easy to collect and show off. You say a '30s Hercules or a '50s buco of whatever model and people in the community know what you're talking about and ooh and aah in a way that something that has to be taken on its own merits- something unmarked or unusual simply won't illicit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Monitor]

Good!!! Means I won't ever get tempted to sell my LL. Not that I'm thinking about it, it's probably my all time favorite jacket.

 

[tmitchell59]

As a buyer I do like labels. As a Seller I'm not too sure who else is interested in labels. Labels don't describe the quality of the jacket, often don't identify the maker. I have several nice vintage jackets that have no labels, never had one that I can see. I've had them that lost their labels too. I've got one going up for sale that has lost it's label, but still maintains it's dignity.

 

[jchance]

As a buyer looking for vintage leather jackets to wear, unlabeled jackets are still deals to hunt for, if you know what to look for. Otherwise, eBay prices on vintage leather jackets have gone a bit too insane compared what I read from the old days. For buyers, anything to knock the prices down is a good thing.

 

[RDS]

And what about a garment that's easy to identify, regardless of the missing brand label? Like in example, a Lewis Leathers that's missing the inside label but still has the outside LL patch and obviously is an LL beyond any doubt? Would that decrease its value?

I’d say yes, because the question which needs to be asked is ‘Why is the label missing in the first place ?’

If an item has been worn enough to have no label, then it has probably been worn a hell of a lot; and in the case of a jacket certainly enough to need re-lining.
And if whoever did the re-lining didn’t think it worth keeping the original label to put back on the new lining, then I’d question their overall competency and standard of workmanship.

 

[Monitor]

I’d say yes, because the question which needs to be asked is ‘Why is the label missing in the first place ?’

If an item has been worn enough to have no label, then it has probably been worn a hell of a lot; and in the case of a jacket certainly enough to need re-lining.
And if whoever did the re-lining didn’t think it worth keeping the original label to put back on the new lining, then I’d question their overall competency and standard of workmanship.

Lol after 28 years, how long it has been since I posted this, I don't even remember what the hell was it that I said.

Either case, re-lining rarely to never keeps the original labels.

 

[RDS]

Ha, Ha!
To be honest I never even noticed the date of your original post and was merely scanning through the thread after it was resurrected by another member. It never even registered that it was over 9 years old.

I always wondered how long dead threads are suddenly brought back to life and now find I’m partly guilty of doing much the same.

Still, at least this one is probably as relevant now as it was back in 2016!

 

[jchance]

Often times, I’ve seen the label along with the lining worn off from overusage. Part of the restoration of a vintage leather jacket could include rescuing and stitching a same-brand label from a different clothing item (which doesn’t have to be leather nor from a jacket). I’ve seen members do this. It’s not inauthentic if the unlabeled leather jacket is identifiable by its features and uses a period-correct label.