Leather Quality and Properties

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by ykurtz, Apr 23, 2014.

  1. ykurtz

    ykurtz One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Idaho Falls, ID
    There have been a lot of threads lately around leather quality and its attributes, as well as topics around tanning, full vs top grain, et al. I found this link on StyleForum which has a wealth of objective information culled together by people with an interest in these and related topics.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/354137/leather-quality-and-properties

    Probably more information than most would care to know, but potentially interesting and edifying to others.
     
  2. Monitor

    Monitor

    Messages:
    12,655
    Still have tons of pages to go through but so far I've learned more about leather in one night than in years I've spent looking online. Though, the 'ignorance is a bliss' phrase comes to mind right now... Nonetheless, excellent thread, thank you for sharing!

    And yes, I am sitting in a pile of jackets, checking for wrinkles...
     
  3. ykurtz

    ykurtz One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Idaho Falls, ID
    It's like getting educated about wine. You start with 'red wine goes with beef; white wine goes with fish' and then find yourself slipping and falling into the rabbit hole....
     
  4. thor

    thor One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,909
    Location:
    NYC, NY
    The days of merely choosing "black or brown" or "goatskin, cowhide or horsehide" for a leather jacket purchase are long gone. Now it's all about tanning processes, dying techniques, thickness in mm, weight in ounces per square yard, top vs full grain and which quadrant of the hide and which breed/species of a specific animal your leather comes from.
     
  5. tmitchell59

    tmitchell59 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,805
    Location:
    Illinois

    Well said.
     
  6. rocketeer

    rocketeer Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,612
    Location:
    England
    I have been buying Aero for over 30 years now, plus a few Eastmans and some modern 'Power Ranger' bike gear along the way, but I have never weighed a jacket, enquired about hide thicknesses or tanning methods etc etc. I am pleased with all these jackets and whats more all of these items of clothing, including the modern bike gear will probably outlive me.;)
     
  7. ykurtz

    ykurtz One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Idaho Falls, ID
    I think that's ultimately the healthiest approach. Amen, sir.
     
  8. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,575
    Location:
    Australia
    Yeah, for me it's like that old saying about art, "don't know nothing about it but I know what I like". I don't want to become a leather geek.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2014
  9. Bunyip

    Bunyip Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,068
    Location:
    Australia
    Great thread. Very informative....
     
  10. thor

    thor One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,909
    Location:
    NYC, NY
    AL has 18 different choices of leather for their Roadhouse model jacket; Aero has 7 different colors/types of FQHH for the Highwayman, plus a heavy steerhide and mid-weight HH option. Once you ask yourself "what's the difference?" you open Pandora's Box! That's where TFL becomes invaluable as a reference tool.
     
  11. hpalapdog

    hpalapdog One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    295
    Location:
    uk
    The video link on page 1 from Grenson shoes was interesting. I've got some Grenson Chelsea boots made of fine calf. Note the one piece upper, most boots like these have an additional side seam. They have been making footwear since 1866.

    I remembered at the time of purchase bewilderment at why UK buyers were getting the equivalent Australian RM Williams which were more expensive.
    The UK market place is a bit strange like that. Lots of companies beavering away making quality stuff that is more appreciated in export markets.
    Talking of which, why do Aero still import shearling from the States when there appear to better suppliers at home ?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2014
  12. scrawlysteve

    scrawlysteve One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    213
    Location:
    London
    Nice boots --and more handsome calf than the ones I saw at RM Williams recently.
     
  13. rocketeer

    rocketeer Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,612
    Location:
    England
    Great looking boots, not seen these for sale in the uk myself. Buying something like this is to me always something I would want to try on if possible. I loved the RM Williams, yes they are expensive but I could try on lots of different styles without having to return any(A Hume, Kelso Scotland)
     
  14. ykurtz

    ykurtz One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Idaho Falls, ID
    Pandora's box was lined with leather. Pretty sure it was brain tanned black FQHH.
     
  15. hpalapdog

    hpalapdog One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    295
    Location:
    uk
    I've been working my way through the thread. Certainly learned a few things about shoe leather and some useful links for UK based leather suppliers.

    Crockett and Jones make nice chelsea boots. In general I'd rate them a bit above Grenson quality wise.

    Nice making of video here (make sure you watch it full screen HD) Warning this may damage your wallet

    http://www.crockettandjones.com/inthemaking
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2014
  16. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,575
    Location:
    Australia
    In terms of footwear, I don't get the RM Williams thing. They are made here but you almost never see an Australian actually wearing them. They are ridiculously expensive and, from my experience, are not robust and wear out very quickly. Much better to get a pair of Blundstones for $60.
     
  17. Fanch

    Fanch I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,484
    Location:
    Texas
  18. ykurtz

    ykurtz One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Idaho Falls, ID
    I own a pair of chestnut RM Williams. I like the fact that they're wholecuts, and come with a chiseled toe (as an option). I only wear them once or twice a month, so I can't speak to the wear and tear, but they appear comparatively well made...albeit not as good as my M.L. Leddy's.
     
  19. Grayland

    Grayland One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,899
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    I have a pair of each. I paid about $135 for the Blundstones and about $200 for the RM Williams (when the exchange rate really worked in my favor). The RMW are the Craftsman model which is much dressier than the Blunnies. I do understand that RMW makes several more heavy-duty boots, but I wear mine in more of a dress boot type setting. Not suits, but everything else. I would imagine the soles of those would wear out pretty quickly if I wore them as my main footwear - and that does seem to go against the RMW rugged image that the ads suggest.

    The Blunnies seem pretty durable and they are fairly comfortable - but are pretty ugly. I still like them and this is my second pair, but sleek they ain't.
     
  20. ykurtz

    ykurtz One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Idaho Falls, ID
    You can get RM Williams with the brass screwed soles. The sleekness is pretty impressive. Here's an RM Williams boot with a brass screwed sole (left) versus a John Lobb Goodyear Welted sole (right). Note the difference in lip jutting:

    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.