Leather winter jacket - Classic Shearling Jacket vs. Shearling Lining

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by AlexB, Sep 3, 2019.

  1. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Berlin
    Hi everybody,

    I am currently in the process of specifying Aero Jacket #3 with Carrie.
    Right now the weather is still beautiful and warm in NYC, but I want to plan ahead for the temperature drop in winter.
    My first thought was to go with a B-6 jacket in Seal. I like the trim fit and the thinner shearling (compared to the B-3) should be fine for NYC winters. In the worst case I can still layer with some wool pullovers.

    While doing some research and browsing through some older threads I also came along the option to get a "standard" leather jacket like the Hercules, Highwayman or Half-Belt with a shearling lining. If I understood correctly the arms will be lined with Corduroy. The benefit I see hear is that a CXL jacket is a) more water resistant and b) more abrasion resistant/ robust than a sheepskin flying jacket.

    How is the experience here in the forum with shearling lined jackets? Do they serve as proper winter jackets or is the Corduroy in the arms not insulating enough? Looking forward to receive some ideas/ input. This is still a blank page and I am basically open for everything.

    Cheers,
    Alex
     
  2. Harris HTM

    Harris HTM One Too Many

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    Location:
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    I own both a sheepskin (Aero B3) and a shearling lined CXL (https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-aero-long-half-belt-shearling-lined.89578/).
    The sheepskin is warmer but bulky and if you get water or snow on the collar then you feel like a wet dog.
    The CXL is much more water resistant, but: (a) your arms are not that warm and (b) a long CXL shearling lined jacket is heavy; really heavy.
    For extreme cold and wet climate invest on a (preferably down filled) parka.
     
  3. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

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    Location:
    Berlin
    Thanks for your reply. Your jacket was actually inspiring me to look into the second option. I have a functional down parka, but I was looking for something that satisfies me aesthetically and lets me continue to wear beautiful leather jackets also during the winter. The weight is for sure something to consider. However, normally I do not feel the weight when wearing the jacket instead of carrying it ;)
     
  4. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie One Too Many

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    Location:
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    Hey Alex,

    for German winters, you should be fine with corduroy-lined sleeves. As long as your body is warm, the arms usually are okay. I would prefer a standard jacket with shearling lining over a shearling jacket for the very reasons you listed yourself. Aero has some styles that are lined with shearling by default, too, e.g. the Longshoreman or the Thunderbay. @Worf owns a Thunderbay I believe, maybe he can give some input?

    I would get a jacket with hip length, e.g. the Long Halfbelt, with shearling lining. You can wear that in wet autumn weather (which we have plenty of in Germany) and get more wear out of your jacket where as a shearlining jacket is restricted to cold and winterish weather conditions only (atleast I wouldnt wear it in rainy weather).
     
    Monitor likes this.
  5. Harris HTM

    Harris HTM One Too Many

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    1,135
    Location:
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    If you go for a shearling lined jacket then I'd advise to use a midweight leather (goat comes to mind) and add an inch on the sleeve and back length you usually wear; the shearling is thick enough to lift the jacket on the shoulder and make the sleeves and back look short.
    Further, if you go with aero, keep in mind that it is roughly 2/3 of the jacket that is lined in shearling and the rest is lined with corduroy.
    And consider the weight factor, my LHB is a total beast.
     
  6. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Berlin
    Great, thanks! I actually moved to NYC. So at least for the next 2-3 years it also has to satisfy East Coast Winters.
    In terms of fit, how bulky does the jacket become with the shearling? Is it still possible to get a decently looking/trim fit?
     
  7. Peter Mackin

    Peter Mackin Practically Family

    Messages:
    731
    Location:
    glasgow
    On biting cold days I wear my ANJ4,,if it’s snowing,raining & cold it’s a waxed N1,,,both work great and look cool into the bargain.
     
  8. dubpynchon

    dubpynchon Practically Family

    Messages:
    850
    Location:
    Ireland
    I ordered a Thunderbay with Aero just last week, I specified goatskin to keep the weight down and because it's a resilient leather and moleskin sleeves as I have heard that corduroy can drag on shirts. I have an LL Bean Flying Tigers which is shearling lined and it's a bulky jacket, for a trim fit you could probably ask Aero to use shearling the same length as a D-1 or B-6. A military shearling will definitely be warmer in the arms but will soak through when it rains, and sheepskin takes ages to dry I find. Also I asked that the corduroy strip at the hem be only an inch or so high so I get more sheepskin real estate, I haven't heard back that that might be a problem so it might be worth adding in.
    If it's super cold I wear an ANJ-4 with a submariner jumper, for less cold days here in Ireland the Thunderbay should work. Those Canada Goose chilliwack jackets look mighty nice but it'd never be cold enough to wear one over here.
    This guy's Thunderbay look particularly nice, I don't know if it uses lighter shearling but Carrie might know. He used vicenza but I think goat might be better if it's going to be rained on. I'm hoping mine will look like this.

    [​IMG]

    https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...e-for-aero-jackets.77738/page-67#post-2244291
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
  9. ton312

    ton312

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    11,542
    Location:
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    The Thunderbay is a bad ass jacket. I've been looking for one second-hand, or a longshoreman forever. They never appear in that market though.
     
  10. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

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    That's a beautiful jacket. In Carries post it says this one is Vicenza? Or did you order a second one?
     
  11. dubpynchon

    dubpynchon Practically Family

    Messages:
    850
    Location:
    Ireland
    It’s not mine, I just hope mine turns out like this.
    The Longshoreman is sweet but I’d have to have it in CXL for the authentic look so it’d weight a ton, er ton.
     
  12. Monitor

    Monitor

    Messages:
    12,670
    As much as I love the idea of a cow/horse shearling lined jacket, I'm not sure how well it actually translates to reality. One thing I've noticed that seems unavoidable is that the end result will always end up looking too bulky. Often ridiculous. Makes a wearer look like a turtle.

    Another thing is that the sleeves can't be lined in sheepskin and corduroy is definitely not insulating and warm enough, I can tell you that much.
    Even the quilt lined sleeves can't compare with the warmth of shearling, so...

    If I was buying a new winter jacket, I think I'd rather go with just a regular shearling jacket, like the B-whatever or something. These things are absolutely essential for any decent winter.
     
    ton312 and Harris HTM like this.
  13. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
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    It seems their is now definite answer. In general I really like the look of a regular shearling jacket. The Thunderbay looks badass! I agree regarding the Corduroy and quilt. For sure warmer than other linings, but most likely not sufficient for real winter days...
     
  14. Harris HTM

    Harris HTM One Too Many

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    Since you are located in NYC: why don't you give a try at Lost Worlds? I've heard pretty good things over their sheepskins.
     
  15. Goel

    Goel One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    125
    This is the very issue I ran into last winter. I first opted for a full shearling SB ANJ4 and I think it was a poor choice, while it was warm it was very bulky and hard to move in, was kind of short, and just wasn't very functional. A B6 would be easier to move in but thinner and less warm. In the end I got a cheap shearling (which I layer found was not real shearling) lined goatskin M51 and it kept me warm all winter, even below 0F for a bit. I now have a finished cowhide M65 with a real shearling liner that's even warmer. Both have sleeves lined in thinsulate which I don't think Aero has, but they might have some kind of quilted fabric or moleskin. Add in a knit cuff and your arms would be fine. You can also have things like a bi swing back on a lined jacket for better mobility, internal pocket to store things etc... CXL will be heavy though, a lighter but still weather resistant leather like goatskin would cut down on that. There are many options for longer or shorter jackets depending on what you want, but I think the extra length really helps in winter. Highly recommend a snap off collar too, makes it warmer in the winter when on and more wearable in the fall or rain when off.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
  16. dubpynchon

    dubpynchon Practically Family

    Messages:
    850
    Location:
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    Or just get a Vanson Model E with quilted lining, that's practically a winter jacket, I don't know what they're lining the quilting in but it's warm. My ANJ-4 is the warmest jacket I have, I think it has around 18mm sheepskin but it's very bulky. Practically a D-1 I once had was the best jacket for winter, it was light enough to be able to wear it often and the sleeves were warm. Lookswise though, I think the Thunderbay has it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
    bn1966, Peter Mackin and Monitor like this.
  17. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Berlin
    Summarizing what I have learned so far the options are:
    a) B-6 jacket
    b) Lighter hide (Vicenza or goat) leather jacket, longer cut (long half-belt, Thunderbay), lined with sheepskin and/or quilt, snap-off collar
    ...difficult
     
    Harris HTM likes this.
  18. Harris HTM

    Harris HTM One Too Many

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    I'd take goat over vicenza (better water resistance) and probably an even longer model (c0nsider the Barnstormer).
     
    Monitor likes this.
  19. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    11,542
    Location:
    Chicago
    Like this :
    [​IMG]
    I think this guy just bought his jacket two sizes too large though...but I get what you are saying...the shearling does add significant bulk for sure.
     
    Monitor and Harris HTM like this.
  20. Monitor

    Monitor

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    12,670
    Seconding the @dubpynchon's Vanson's quilted lining suggestion. Their quilted lining is super toasty. Also seconding @Harris HTM suggestion to go with the goat. Excellent, indestructible hide that I believe seriously outperforms and outlasts any steer/horse.

    There was a dude also here on TFL who had the same idea as I did and eventually bought this super heavy CXL HH jacket, lined in the heaviest shearling possible. I'm sure the jacket was superb but... It looked unwearable. It was ridiculously gigantic.
    But a couple of other members got a really great fitting Thunderbay jackets though.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
    dubpynchon likes this.

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