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Let's talk about wool coats, jackets, and vests

Bushman

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,969
Location
Chicago
I'm very partial to my mackinaw coat from Legendary Whitetails. Without a doubt the warmest coat I own.
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TLW '90

One of the Regulars
Messages
190
I just ordered a USMC wool " Commando sweater " from sportsmans guide.
I'm not normally into USMC issued gear, but these are iconic classics and are a pretty affordable piece of American wool.

They're listed as 100% wool which I'm not too sure about, but for $60 I'm not all that worried.
 
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Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,179
I just ordered USMC wool " Commando sweater " from sportsmans guide.
I'm not normally into USMC issued gear, but these are iconic classic pieces, and are a pretty affordable piece of affordable wool.

They're listed as 100% wool which I'm not too sure about, but for $60 I'm not all that worried.

I've come close to ordering this exact sweater a few times. Very curious as to your thoughts once it arrives.

I also considered the Commando sweater from LL Bean and the shooting sweater from Paul James knitwear amongst others...perhaps next winter will be the right time.
 

TLW '90

One of the Regulars
Messages
190
I've come close to ordering this exact sweater a few times. Very curious as to your thoughts once it arrives.

I also considered the Commando sweater from LL Bean and the shooting sweater from Paul James knitwear amongst others...perhaps next winter will be the right time.
They also have a black " us municipal surplus " commando sweater for much less, but these are American made so I was happy to pay more.
Not that it's all that expensive.
 
Messages
14,181
Location
Chicago
I just ordered a USMC wool " Commando sweater " from sportsmans guide.
I'm not normally into USMC issued gear, but these are iconic classics and are a pretty affordable piece of American wool.

They're listed as 100% wool which I'm not too sure about, but for $60 I'm not all that worried.
I used to have a few of these. Loved them and they are crazy warm. Mine were itchy though. Had to be cold enough for a thermal under it.
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,179
They also have a black " us municipal surplus " commando sweater for much less, but these are American made so I was happy to pay more.
Not that it's all that expensive.

Oh I scanned through their entire surplus sweater zone. The German police ones looked really nice too
 

TLW '90

One of the Regulars
Messages
190
I used to have a few of these. Loved them and they are crazy warm. Mine were itchy though. Had to be cold enough for a thermal under it.
I'd probably be wearing it over a henley or possibly over a flannel as well , I don't know what the fit is like though so I may be crazy for thinking I can wear it over 2 layers.
 

Cornelius

Practically Family
Messages
715
Location
Great Lakes
Oh I scanned through their entire surplus sweater zone. The German police ones looked really nice too

Hate to be sharing a closely guarded secret, but TFL seems worth it:

The Italian military surplus stuff at sportsmansguide is a goldmine. Most recent acquired 2 different Italian navy sweaters from them, both heavy yet fine wool & remarkably warm, likely 100% (though possible the 85% wool / 15% nylon mix many militaries began using late 20th C. for greater durability - they essentially lack ANY labeling).

Each cost me less than $20. Cheap enough to keep stashed with work gear for sudden colder weather. Round one size up if 'merican (I wear a 40L suitcoat & am usually a "Medium" in most US clothing but always need at least a "Large" in any Italian surplus). Also note these are a trim military fit, unsurprisingly; I have a 6-8" drop from shoulder to waist, depending on the season, and these fit me well. Any thicker around the middle though & it'd be a problem.

The 50/50 cotton/wool surplus Italian thermals they always have on sale are also superb. The tops especially, kind of like a tight-fitting sweatshirt in off-white, long enough in torso to tuck into your trousers if you want so that your base layer never rides up. I'm wearing one today actually, beneath a submariner sweater. I bought a two-pack from SG years ago for ~$20, & apart from a single pinprick tear in one they still look new.
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,179
Hate to be sharing a closely guarded secret, but TFL seems worth it:

The Italian military surplus stuff at sportsmansguide is a goldmine. Most recent acquired 2 different Italian navy sweaters from them, both heavy yet fine wool & remarkably warm, likely 100% (though possible the 85% wool / 15% nylon mix many militaries began using late 20th C. for greater durability - they essentially lack ANY labeling).

Each cost me less than $20. Cheap enough to keep stashed with work gear for sudden colder weather. Round one size up if 'merican (I wear a 40L suitcoat & am usually a "Medium" in most US clothing but always need at least a "Large" in any Italian surplus). Also note these are a trim military fit, unsurprisingly; I have a 6-8" drop from shoulder to waist, depending on the season, and these fit me well. Any thicker around the middle though & it'd be a problem.

The 50/50 cotton/wool surplus Italian thermals they always have on sale are also superb. The tops especially, kind of like a tight-fitting sweatshirt in off-white, long enough in torso to tuck into your trousers if you want so that your base layer never rides up. I'm wearing one today actually, beneath a submariner sweater. I bought a two-pack from SG years ago for ~$20, & apart from a single pinprick tear in one they still look new.

I saw them but the comments about sizing left me unsure. Might have to pick one up now. Thanks @Cornelius !
 

TLW '90

One of the Regulars
Messages
190
I have never actually seen these before, but SG had them for pretty cheap so I ordered one.

USGI 5 button sweater, 100% wool, MADE IN USA.
Probably by whoever makes the " Commando " sweaters.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,658
Location
Illinois
Now that is a HB I can get behind. I need to find one now. I appreciate them more in wool.

Yes, very stylish, very Southwest, very 1940 Hollywood as the label depicts. I will get some fit pics at a later (weight reduced) date. As big as it appears it at most a 42. huge sleeve openings. Would be perfect jaket for a costume department. A pair of typical high waisted pants would be perfect. Very Holly wood 1940.

I just bought another Sportclad 40s Wool short half-belt. It too will be a weight reduction jacket. These are dificult to find in any size so I get them when I can, fit or not. Even in Japan they ask top money for the originals. I believe I bought a Hercules from Japan.
 

TLW '90

One of the Regulars
Messages
190
Well the 2nd vest which I ordered from C&C Sutlery on November 1st is finally done and has just been shipped.
It's going to be in the 70's all this week and before I know it It'll be spring but it was in the 50's last week, so I may get to wear it at least a week before summer comes around if I'm lucky.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,006
Location
London, UK
The first two are Polo (Ralph Lauren) the third is Simon James Cathcart (SJC).

SJC have done some really nice jackets. I have one of the very first run of the 33, otherwise I'd be looking at buying the latest one. I think the addition of the leather collar is a great idea - looks sharp, and I think might well wear better than wool sometimes does in that area.

Nice wool half-belt with sunrise Talon zipper and big Talon Oympic ring pull on the pocket. c.1940

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Love this sort of jacket. There's a very similar one in a silver grey worn by one of the characters in Manhattan; only difference with the one on screen is it has a plainer back (no half belt) and action pleats similar to an Indy. Also the chest pocket is open, no zip. Otherwise, very similar shape. I'd love a couple of these in a good cotton for Summer wear. I do tend to reach for a Harrington when it gets too warm for leather and/or I want something other than a blazer, but even they get a bit much in the punishing, Summer heat, what with that brushed cotton lining...
 
Messages
14,181
Location
Chicago
SJC have done some really nice jackets. I have one of the very first run of the 33, otherwise I'd be looking at buying the latest one. I think the addition of the leather collar is a great idea - looks sharp, and I think might well wear better than wool sometimes does in that area.



Love this sort of jacket. There's a very similar one in a silver grey worn by one of the characters in Manhattan; only difference with the one on screen is it has a plainer back (no half belt) and action pleats similar to an Indy. Also the chest pocket is open, no zip. Otherwise, very similar shape. I'd love a couple of these in a good cotton for Summer wear. I do tend to reach for a Harrington when it gets too warm for leather and/or I want something other than a blazer, but even they get a bit much in the punishing, Summer heat, what with that brushed cotton lining...
I have both SJC jackets and the current release was a huge disappointment. It’s very well made but the wool is half the weight of the first. Feels like the type of wool that would be used as a liner for a jacket. Entirely too thin for an outer layer of wool. My next will be from coffin brand. I think he is using the truest to original weight and weave wools.
 

moktabe

One of the Regulars
Messages
129
Location
UK
I have never actually seen these before, but SG had them for pretty cheap so I ordered one.

USGI 5 button sweater, 100% wool, MADE IN USA.
Probably by whoever makes the " Commando " sweaters.

I like that, who are SG?

EDIT :- Found them and they don't have my size!
 
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