JanSolo
Practically Family
- Messages
- 879
- Location
- Ever so sunny Westphalia, Germany
Hello everybody,
last week I had a bit of time at my hand during evenings and I decided I would try my (poor) sewing and leather skills at something substantial and robust in my collection of jackets.
Not too long ago I'd seen a Nigel Cabourn modification on a peacoat which then had leather trim on cuffs, hem and pockets. I thought it might look good on a dufflecoat as well.
So off I went into my little workshop and cut the leather stripes that were needed to do the mod.
The leather is grade A veg tanned spray finish calf skin which I got from a friend as a gift. It's thicker than what you would use for a leather jacket. Yet it is very pliable. It very much resembles Aero's jerky spray finish HH. The colour is almost identical. I didn't skive any of the leather straps so the result looks quite sturdy and robust...some might say clumsy.
A much thinner leather band on the hood to keep it flexible.
The leather pieces are handsewn using single needle saddlestitch (viennese style). The thread is buttonhole yarn which I twisted into a 4-ply thread to create greater thickness.
These are the tools that I used:
- Really heavy steel ruler (4 lbs) my granddad made from hardened steel when he was still working for "Weserhütte" iron works constructing food processing machines
- Medical scalpel with type 21 disposable carbon steel blade (used three blades in total)
- Buttonhole yarn
- Punch pliers
Some details of cuffs and pockets:
Throat latch. Leather on one wool on the other side:
What do you think?
last week I had a bit of time at my hand during evenings and I decided I would try my (poor) sewing and leather skills at something substantial and robust in my collection of jackets.
Not too long ago I'd seen a Nigel Cabourn modification on a peacoat which then had leather trim on cuffs, hem and pockets. I thought it might look good on a dufflecoat as well.
So off I went into my little workshop and cut the leather stripes that were needed to do the mod.
The leather is grade A veg tanned spray finish calf skin which I got from a friend as a gift. It's thicker than what you would use for a leather jacket. Yet it is very pliable. It very much resembles Aero's jerky spray finish HH. The colour is almost identical. I didn't skive any of the leather straps so the result looks quite sturdy and robust...some might say clumsy.
A much thinner leather band on the hood to keep it flexible.
The leather pieces are handsewn using single needle saddlestitch (viennese style). The thread is buttonhole yarn which I twisted into a 4-ply thread to create greater thickness.
These are the tools that I used:
- Really heavy steel ruler (4 lbs) my granddad made from hardened steel when he was still working for "Weserhütte" iron works constructing food processing machines
- Medical scalpel with type 21 disposable carbon steel blade (used three blades in total)
- Buttonhole yarn
- Punch pliers
Some details of cuffs and pockets:
Throat latch. Leather on one wool on the other side:
What do you think?
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