Norfolk Jacket

Discussion in 'Suits' started by The Mad Hatter, Dec 1, 2004.

  1. Creeping Past

    Creeping Past One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,567
    Location:
    England
  2. BellyTank

    BellyTank I'll Lock Up

    Emperors Knew Klothes

    Look in the Goodwood thread- Speedster is wearing it. You know.
    I know, I know... it all sounds very Scandinavian and incestuous...

    Like.


    B
    T
     
  3. Flitcraft

    Flitcraft One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,037
    Agreed!!!

    I was thinking about how "modern" it looked.
    I'd wear that in a heartbeat...
     
  4. Speedster

    Speedster Practically Family

    Messages:
    876
    Location:
    60 km west of København
  5. Speedster

    Speedster Practically Family

    Messages:
    876
    Location:
    60 km west of København
    :)

    This one (wearing two of the three pieces):

    [​IMG]

    And some of the photos you sent me back then showing the details and material:

    [​IMG]

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    Would love to have a Norfolk jacket in Irish Thornproof.
     
  6. H.Johnson

    H.Johnson One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,562
    Location:
    Midlands, UK
    With respect, this doesn't look like keepers tweed, which is a tough, closely woven fabric.

     
  7. BellyTank

    BellyTank I'll Lock Up

    Yes-
    I have always thought (not a Tweed expert)of Keepers Tweed as the heaviest
    of the heavy.


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  8. cookie

    cookie I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,918
    Location:
    Sydney Australia

    I have an Aussie made Irish T'ornproof Tweed jacket from the 60s early 70s but this cloth is unbelievable.
     
  9. STW

    STW Familiar Face

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Rocky mountains
    Was keepers tweed a catagorie made by various makers (or labels) of tweed, or was it separately labeled? In other words, might you see a Harris Tweed keepers tweed or a Donegal Tweed keepers tweed?

    Sorry for the thread drift:eusa_doh:
     
  10. Creeping Past

    Creeping Past One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,567
    Location:
    England
    Not Keeper's Tweed

    I was linking to a photo on the Bookster site, which was the nearest I could find.
     
  11. H.Johnson

    H.Johnson One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,562
    Location:
    Midlands, UK
    Keepers' Tweed

    Keepers' tweed (or keeper's tweed as it is sometimes known) is a type of tweed, not usually associated with a particular place or maker(s). Harris, Donegal and Derby Tweed are traditional tweeds specific to certain areas, with their own weaves and patterns.

    Keepers' ('s) tweed was (is?) intended for a specific purpose or to be worn for a specific type of work (gamekeeping). If it can be associated with any region, it would be the English 'shires'. It is heavy, plain or slightly mottled and very dense and therefore stiff and difficult (for some people) to wear. Definitely not 'posh' but very durable. Most tweed tailors used to do a working dress in the fabric. IMHO Phillips and Piper do some of the best keepers'('s) tweed clothing in their Pytchley range.

     
  12. BellyTank

    BellyTank I'll Lock Up

    Keeper's is the heavy stuff-


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  13. H.Johnson

    H.Johnson One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,562
    Location:
    Midlands, UK
    Yes - IMO it starts at 32 oz and you do see it heavier than this.

    BTW, I forgot to mention my local 'tweedier' Brocklehursts who do a nice suit in the material.
     
  14. STW

    STW Familiar Face

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Rocky mountains
    Thanks. Very useful.
     

  15. Photos below are courtesy of thunderw21. Here the cloth which I showed earlier is not called "homespun", but "twist":


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Creeping Past

    Creeping Past One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,567
    Location:
    England
    Looks a little like the 700 grams (24-ish ounce) fabric that I linked to.

    Although I've a fair idea what a twist fabric is (higher density), I've searched Google but can't easily find a definition of it to post here. Is Keeper's Tweed a twist material?
     
  17. Don't know.


    Having owned jackets with the vintage material shown above, I can say that it neither looks nor feels quite like Keeper's Tweed or Thornproof cloth. Whether it's called "twist" or "homespun", the stuff is VERY scratchy and sandpapery, crisp and dry to the touch, and porous (though only upon close inspection).

    http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=880520&postcount=34


    .
     
  18. thunderw21

    thunderw21 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,044
    Location:
    Iowa

    Is this the stuff sometimes called "sandpaper" material? It's been referred to as that in the "Show us your suits" thread if it's the same material.
     
  19. Think so. I've described it as "sandpaper" in that thread.


    Don't like the way which 'twist/homespun' cloth wears: it feels scratchy and starchy on.


    .
     
  20. H.Johnson

    H.Johnson One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,562
    Location:
    Midlands, UK
    Let's twist again

    As I understand it, 'twist' is a term used by weavers to describe a twilled weave with a tighter spun yarn than would be used for a bulkier tweed. In a way it is related to worsted cloth - hard spun and tightly woven, so the cloth is thin but dense and very windproof (which much tweed isn't). That makes it practical and wearable as 'everyday' tweed. Keeper's tweed is similar (IMO) but bulkier and heavier.

    One of my favourite tweed suits is a Magee in their Barnsmore Twist tweed.
     

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