Post New Hats Here!

[Judgmentalist]

Here is my Peschel. In one of the photos you can see where the sweatband is separated. There is a tiny little mule kick in the back right now. Fairly stubborn; doesn't want to come out. I don't mind it. The hat wasn't squished during shipping. Let me know what you think.



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So, in these pics I had a pot holder in the crown to get it up off my head a little bit, because even though it’s vintage and supposedly 7 1/2, it’s loose on my head. Go figure. The Optimo 7 1/2 fits well. I think. More on that another time maybe.

I got my cork strips in the mail today, and I added two on each side and one in the front AND back, and it still feels like it either sits a little low or just barely fits tight enough.

I guess these strips are 1/8” thick, so that reduces the opening by what, a half inch left to right an a quarter inch front to back?

Is this weird? For a vintage hat to be advertised as that much smaller than it actually is? Normally I’ve been running into people fudging on the high side, e.g., they will say 7 1/2 and the tag will say 7 1/4.

Also, is this thing sitting up high enough off of my head?

 

[Judgmentalist]

So, in these pics I had a pot holder in the crown to get it up off my head a little bit, because even though it’s vintage and supposedly 7 1/2, it’s loose on my head. Go figure. The Optimo 7 1/2 fits well. I think. More on that another time maybe.

I got my cork strips in the mail today, and I added two on each side and one in the front AND back, and it still feels like it either sits a little low or just barely fits tight enough.

I guess these strips are 1/8” thick, so that reduces the opening by what, a half inch left to right an a quarter inch front to back?

Is this weird? For a vintage hat to be advertised as that much smaller than it actually is? Normally I’ve been running into people fudging on the high side, e.g., they will say 7 1/2 and the tag will say 7 1/4.

Also, is this thing sitting up high enough off of my head?

Is this thing worth having/accurate?

 

[RickP]

Is this thing worth having/accurate?

a useful idea, but I bought one of the chinese copies thats at least a full size small when reading. Someday Ill try to modify the pointer so it reads correctly. should be usable for an inside diameter, but of zero use figuring someones head size

 

[blewnote]

So, in these pics I had a pot holder in the crown to get it up off my head a little bit, because even though it’s vintage and supposedly 7 1/2, it’s loose on my head. Go figure. The Optimo 7 1/2 fits well. I think. More on that another time maybe.

I got my cork strips in the mail today, and I added two on each side and one in the front AND back, and it still feels like it either sits a little low or just barely fits tight enough.

I guess these strips are 1/8” thick, so that reduces the opening by what, a half inch left to right an a quarter inch front to back?

Is this weird? For a vintage hat to be advertised as that much smaller than it actually is? Normally I’ve been running into people fudging on the high side, e.g., they will say 7 1/2 and the tag will say 7 1/4.

Also, is this thing sitting up high enough off of my head?

Well the thing about hats is that just like clothes, every manufacture might have slightly different sizing. And that sizing may change over time.

Here are images from Miller Stockman catalogs that carouselvic posted. First is Spring/Summer 1935:

Next up is Spring/Summer 1938:

Edit: I can't figure out how to quickly reduce the size on this one to post it inline. You'll just have to open it.

View attachment ss1938.jpg

Your size 7 1/2 is 23 3/4 in the first and 23 1/2 in the second. And it looks like the copy was for Stetson hats in both. But as I said, different manufacturers have slightly different sizing. Borsalinos are known to run small (ie fit tighter for the same size).

Then you have the issue of whether the leather shrunk some over time, or if someone stretched it out with a hat stretcher or hat jack or just by wearing it on a slightly larger noggin. So yes, there's going to be variance in sizing in vintage hats where you don't know what happened to it before you got it, and also with brand new hats depending on the brand.

As for how it fits, that's (like the crease) also kinda up to you. If I were to put a hat straight on that's about where I'd like it to hit, maybe a teensy smidge higher. I don't want it hitting my ears. Some people like it to touch their ears. Some people, like our forum friend Jeff Garf seem to like it to ride pretty high up above their ears, almost like wearing a size smaller for me. I also as a rule tend to **** my hats to the right at a rakish angle because it looks cool to me. I sometimes think I can get away with wearing a slightly tighter fitting hat that way than if I were to wear it straight across because of how it fits in that fashion.

 

[blewnote]

a useful idea, but I bought one of the chinese copies thats at least a full size small when reading. Someday Ill try to modify the pointer so it reads correctly. should be usable for an inside diameter, but of zero use figuring someones head size

Man, it's nice to hear you say that because I bought one recently and also felt like it measured everything about a size small. I've been meaning to post about it in the ask a question thread.

It does seem to accurately measure in the metric system (ie. a size 58 is 58cm) so maybe it's just that my experience with size 58 hats (my size) is that they run smaller than 58cm.

 

[RickP]

Randal Alan does sell a set of flexible sizing loops that look useful for determing someones actual head size and shape. Basically pick out which one fits the head, make a few measurements while its on the head and you not only have the size but also the shape of the head ( should be great for making a proper fitting band block for working a hat to fit properly)

 

[Judgmentalist]

New Cavanaugh arrived yesterday. This is the stingy brim that I got all trigger happy about because it was listed as a Homburg. I like it.

I'm happy to have at least one example of a stingy brim. After this I'm probably going to pivot away from black/dark grey. I can't tell if this is meant to be charcoal or if it was originally black and is just less black with age. I bought a vintage 7 5/8, attempting to factor for shrinkage. It will need a couple cork strips to tighten up a bit.

I've been digging the brim flipped up, slightly back look. At least with this one. I'm not sure how I feel about it with the other. It makes me feel like it kinda defeats the purpose of a snap brim hat though lol.

Just out of the box - couldn't be bothered to play dress up today, and my resident photographer is MIA (this was not an accident - trying to spread out the hat questions a bit ), so you'll have to put up with a selfie. Sorry for the jump scare.

If I get another Cav I will wait for a tippy-top of the line one. We shall see how it goes.

Cavanaugh and Optimo side by side

brim up

brim down

came with a box also

 

[jeffgarf]

New Cavanaugh arrived yesterday. This is the stingy brim that I got all trigger happy about because it was listed as a Homburg. I like it.

I'm happy to have at least one example of a stingy brim. After this I'm probably going to pivot away from black/dark grey. I can't tell if this is meant to be charcoal or if it was originally black and is just less black with age. I bought a vintage 7 5/8, attempting to factor for shrinkage. It will need a couple cork strips to tighten up a bit.

I've been digging the brim flipped up, slightly back look. At least with this one. I'm not sure how I feel about it with the other. It makes me feel like it kinda defeats the purpose of a snap brim hat though lol.

Just out of the box - couldn't be bothered to play dress up today, and my resident photographer is MIA (this was not an accident - trying to spread out the hat questions a bit ), so you'll have to put up with a selfie. Sorry for the jump scare.

If I get another Cav I will wait for a tippy-top of the line one. We shall see how it goes.

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Cavanaugh and Optimo side by side
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brim up
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brim down
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came with a box also
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Looks good. Enjoy.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

I'm happy to have at least one example of a stingy brim.

Make that two with the Optimo you just bought.

 

[Judgmentalist]

Make that two with the Optimo you just bought.

I don’t think of that one as being particularly stingy but you would probably know better than me - are you talking about the one in the side-by-side pic or the weird brown one with the curl?

The Cav I’m wearing right now is 1.75” - the black Optimo is 2.75”.

Being in the back of the side-by-side photo messes with the perspective a bit.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

I don’t think of that one as being particularly stingy but you would probably know better than me - are you talking about the one in the side-by-side pic or the weird brown one with the curl?

The Cav I’m wearing right now is 1.75” - the black Optimo is 2.75”.

Being in the back of the side-by-side photo messes with the perspective a bit.

Brown

 

[Judgmentalist]

Brown

Gotcha - I didn’t know what to call that thing with the curl - some kind of weird hybrid - I suspect that one is headed back to TRR but we shall see.

 

[Judgmentalist]

Just came in the mail today - Stetson Royal Deluxe St. Regis - 7 3/8 - first big boy hat that technically qualifies as a Homburg, even though it has a soft crown. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

I love it. However...

I bought a 7 3/8 because I thought I could go a smidge tighter than my last 7 1/2, but the dang thing is too tight. Like I have to wedge it down to get it on. Do I try to stretch it to fit or cut my losses? What would you do?

@belfastboy - you are gonna be my hat fixer, if you will, do you say try to stretch this one or toss it back? It's pretty tight. If you have a minute sorry to bother.

expression of sweatband-enforced perpetual surprise

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[blewnote]

Just came in the mail today - Stetson Royal Deluxe St. Regis - 7 3/8 - first big boy hat that technically qualifies as a Homburg, even though it has a soft crown. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

I love it. However...

I bought a 7 3/8 because I thought I could go a smidge tighter than my last 7 1/2, but the dang thing is too tight. Like I have to wedge it down to get it on. Do I try to stretch it to fit or cut my losses? What would you do?

expression of sweatband-enforced perpetual surprise
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Homburgs have soft felt, some moreso than others. My Knox from the early 30s is so soft it's almost floppy, the others I have from Stetson/Dobbs/Disney/Mallory are stiffer to various degrees but they're all soft hats.

If it feels like it's just a little too small and you have access to a stretcher or hatjack you can try to stretch it but it's always a gamble as to whether the sweatband can take it/it will stick.

That St Regis is intriguing to me, it has features that mark it as being from 2 different eras to my eye. I'm curious what the reorder tag on the felt under the sweat and has to say about it's age.

Have you read through the "how to date a stetson" by liner or by size tag threads? There's a lot of missing images but a lot of info. I'm curious what year range you think it might be from after you've read through some of them.

 

[Judgmentalist]

Homburgs have soft felt, some moreso than others. My Knox from the early 30s is so soft it's almost floppy, the others I have from Stetson/Dobbs/Disney/Mallory are stiffer to various degrees but they're all soft hats.

If it feels like it's just a little too small and you have access to a stretcher or hatjack you can try to stretch it but it's always a gamble as to whether the sweatband can take it/it will stick.

That St Regis is intriguing to me, it has features that mark it as being from 2 different eras to my eye. I'm curious what the reorder tag on the felt under the sweat and has to say about it's age.

Have you read through the "how to date a stetson" by liner or by size tag threads? There's a lot of missing images but a lot of info. I'm curious what year range you think it might be from after you've read through some of them.

I haven't read through that, no, but I will now, thank you. I felt around under the sweatband looking for that reorder tag and I didn't feel it. I'm worried about messing up the sweatband looking for it, but I will see what I can do.

You think it might be a rebuild or something? I'm interested to hear what you think; don't worry, you ain't gonna hurt my feelings lol.

 

[Judgmentalist]

Homburgs have soft felt, some moreso than others. My Knox from the early 30s is so soft it's almost floppy, the others I have from Stetson/Dobbs/Disney/Mallory are stiffer to various degrees but they're all soft hats.

If it feels like it's just a little too small and you have access to a stretcher or hatjack you can try to stretch it but it's always a gamble as to whether the sweatband can take it/it will stick.

That St Regis is intriguing to me, it has features that mark it as being from 2 different eras to my eye. I'm curious what the reorder tag on the felt under the sweat and has to say about it's age.

Have you read through the "how to date a stetson" by liner or by size tag threads? There's a lot of missing images but a lot of info. I'm curious what year range you think it might be from after you've read through some of them.

One guy from that Dating Vintage Stetsons by Liner - a field guide thread says my liner crest is from the late 50s. What potential mismatches are you seeing?

 

[Rmccamey]

Jumped on this Giorgio of Beverly Hills derby. I don’t love it but it’s a fun little thing. View attachment 781162 View attachment 781163 View attachment 781164 View attachment 781165

There is a place in every collection for a couple of those "fun hats". My fun hat is a little pork pie.

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Herbert Johnson - Soft Bowler
Warm Grey Felt
4 1/2 Soft Round Crown
d'Orsay Curl Brim 1 7/8 front/back 1 1/2 Sides
1 inch charcoal grosgrain ribbon

As our friend/lounge alumni Brent has said.. “sometime a hat just speaks to me” That was certainly the case with this Herbert Johnson soft bowler. It caught my attention with its warm toned grey felt and darker charcoal binding on its d'Orsay Curl Brim. Based on its pictures I was kinda envisioning a bit more of a soft homburg kinda crown but in person it is in fact a bowler shaped crown but still soft and shapeable. I imagine at a time when soft felts were becoming more and more popular while stiff felts/bowlers were still a bit of a standard especially in the British market this Soft Bowler made for a bit of a crossover. That said.. I’m quite pleased with it for two reasons… first it finally checks off the box of grey bowler. Second… the Soft Bowler designation makes it quite an interesting piece, an example of which I had not come across previously. And it’s a Herbert Johnson to boot. I’m no expert on dating HJ hats but the 38 New Bond Street puts it squarely in the rather broad range of 1895 and 1975. The notation on the liner By Appointment to Her Royal Majesty The Queen Royal Hatters puts us about 1953 or later. It certainly looks like the quality of hats we often see from the 1950s so that would be my guess. If you’ve ever had the urge to reach up and squeeze a pinch in the front of a bowler… this is the hat for you!

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Nice score, Joe.

 

[Rmccamey]

Yes, the St. Regis is a soft felt.

Just came in the mail today - Stetson Royal Deluxe St. Regis - 7 3/8 - first big boy hat that technically qualifies as a Homburg, even though it has a soft crown. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

I love it. However...

I bought a 7 3/8 because I thought I could go a smidge tighter than my last 7 1/2, but the dang thing is too tight. Like I have to wedge it down to get it on. Do I try to stretch it to fit or cut my losses? What would you do?

@belfastboy - you are gonna be my hat fixer, if you will, do you say try to stretch this one or toss it back? It's pretty tight. If you have a minute sorry to bother.

expression of sweatband-enforced perpetual surprise
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[Judgmentalist]

Just came in the mail today - Stetson Royal Deluxe St. Regis - 7 3/8 - first big boy hat that technically qualifies as a Homburg, even though it has a soft crown. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

I love it. However...

I bought a 7 3/8 because I thought I could go a smidge tighter than my last 7 1/2, but the dang thing is too tight. Like I have to wedge it down to get it on. Do I try to stretch it to fit or cut my losses? What would you do?

@belfastboy - you are gonna be my hat fixer, if you will, do you say try to stretch this one or toss it back? It's pretty tight. If you have a minute sorry to bother.

expression of sweatband-enforced perpetual surprise
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It is with a heavy heart I have decided that this St. Regis doesn't get to stay with me. Even if I could stretch it to make it work, I don't want to. In general, with items that are 60 years old, if I don't have to modify them I won't. I try to leave them as original as possible.

I've done this with suits I really liked. I had a bespoke suit made by a Jewish tailor from European cloth in the 50's. Technically fit me, but made me look a little boxier than I wanted. I sold it rather than change the shape of the jacket. I hope the guy that bought it feels the same. I still miss that one lol.

St. Regis, we hardly knew ye.

View attachment 781948

 

[The Lost kansan]

It is with a heavy heart I have decided that this St. Regis doesn't get to stay with me. Even if I could stretch it to make it work, I don't want to. In general, with items that are 60 years old, if I don't have to modify them I won't. I try to leave them as original as possible.

I've done this with suits I really liked. I had a bespoke suit made by a Jewish tailor from European cloth in the 50's. Technically fit me, but made me look a little boxier than I wanted. I sold it rather than change the shape of the jacket. I hope the guy that bought it feels the same. I still miss that one lol.

St. Regis, we hardly knew ye.

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Try a Strat next!