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Quality of Brooks Sportswear (80's) Leather Jackets Compared to Other Vintage Brands

zoetrophic

New in Town
Messages
5
Location
United States
Hi all,

New poster here, glad to be a part of the community. I've scoured the internet for information on these jackets and have only found a handful of posts, most of which were made on this forum. I'm looking to see whether I can integrate a leather jacket into my wardrobe and due to my size (34r-36r) it is fairly difficult to find affordable vintage jackets that fit. I was drawn to Brooks due to the relatively low eBay prices and the tendency of small sizes to pop up fairly frequently.

I was wondering if anyone has any commentary on the quality of their later models (late '70s-80s, with the red black and white tag) and whether they are the best I can get in the $175-250 price range. My plan is to use one of their cafe racers as a 'trial' to get me through the winter and order an Aero this upcoming summer if all works out. Other vintage brands I have found include Remy USA, Wilsons Leather and Schott. However, due to popularity the Schotts in this price range that are available tend to be very well loved. I'd rather have something broken in, not necessarily broken down.

Thanks for your help!
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
They are as well made as any of the old classics. To me the vintage Brooks cafe racer with two chest pockets (and no side pockets) is amongst the best looking cafe racer ever made. They are similar to an early Buco but I prefer the Brooks articulated back. I've owned around four of them. They are a fairly thin steerhide - around 2.5oz and I would never wear one on a bike. Since I've never ridden it doesn't matter to me. They are the perfect general wear jacket - much better that a FQHH Aero IMO.

Size is an issue. I wear a size 46 or a 48 in these. My usual size is 42. They are cut pretty small - around 2 sizes small. In other words, if you normally wear a 38 you may need a 42.

Most of these are from the 1970's and they still make these decades on. The new ones are a little less cool looking and are really heavy.

Always check the measurements rather than the size. Establish your ideal pit tp pit, shoulder, sleeve and back length. The sleeves on Brooks tend to be long. Usually 26 - 27 inches long.
 
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Novos

One of the Regulars
Messages
192
Location
Canada
I'd say that their pre 80s stuff is extremely high quality and is quite nice. Like Seb said, their earlier leathers run quite small so be prepared with measurements. They also have a couple models similar to those made by Buco (PJ-27-esque), hard to find in my size, but there are pretty cool.

I have had a couple of the newer Brooks jackets, their fit is a lot more generous, and they are solid quality. The leather is heavier but there is absolutely no grain, so I'm not sure if it is a split leather or what. Still nice, just not particularly characterful. I do love the rings for zipper pullers.
 

zoetrophic

New in Town
Messages
5
Location
United States
Thank you both. I noticed the extremely small sizing and it's what drew me in (price aside), knowing that I could get a 38 and have a comfortable fit. I'll make sure to check for detailed measurements before ordering.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
Thank you both. I noticed the extremely small sizing and it's what drew me in (price aside), knowing that I could get a 38 and have a comfortable fit. I'll make sure to check for detailed measurements before ordering.

They are a classy looking jacket. Are you a size 34 or 36? If you are a 38 might work for you.
 

zoetrophic

New in Town
Messages
5
Location
United States
My actual chest size is 35", so I'm planning to go with a 38 or possibly a 36. Due to my stature sizing up too much tends to give me the 'hand me down jacket' look and from my understanding the 38 and 36 have a 41" and 39" chest measurement respectively. I'm hesitant to order before getting shoulder and length measurements as well, so I'll probably wait for a listing where those criteria are available.
 

Novos

One of the Regulars
Messages
192
Location
Canada
Zoetrophic, are you interested in a Brooks biker jacket or just a cafe racer? I have a MC I'm looking to sell that might be in your size. It's a 38, but may be a bit big if you're a true 36. It's from the late 70-early 80s so it still has that lovely sunburst Talon main zip, and a bit more vintage appeal that the ones from the late 80s onwards.

Shoulder seam = 18"
Pit to pit = Just a hair under 20"
 
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