Recently Discovered Suit. Opinion Poll

[Evan Everhart]

Hi guys (and gals), I recently re-discovered a little gem in amongst all of my others stored away in my wardrobe stock-pile.

The suit is a variegated micro-pin-stripe in mid-gray, DB, only four buttons (so, no non-functional buttons present on the jacket front). The suit's not vintage by any account though it looks enough like it could be by the cut; it was custom made in 1984, I still have the original tags and invoice which I found stuffed into the breast pocket....The shoulders aren't too padded or pointed, the waist has just enough suppression, the trousers rise to an inch or so above my natural navel, comfortably, and the trousers have nicely wide (but not flared) legs. It is a Perfect dream in all respects and is in pristine condition.

Now that that's all out of the way, let's get to my pickle; the trousers have a half-self-belt, with a silver buckle and buckle eye-lets. If the belt were a whole removable self-belt, I would simply take it off, or adjust if I wanted it, but, I usually abhor belts and much prefer suspenders. My issue is this, I think it's absolutely terrible taste to wear a belt with suspenders, but this is a half-belt, almost like a side-tab, but belted to the side, on the front....Can or should I wear suspenders with it. I lean towards not, but it is a bit of a pseudo-gray area for me. I'm assuming, that I'll simply have to take in the waist a half inch or so as suspenders and a belt, even a half-belt is confusion....

I'll post a picture soon along with my pictures of me in my other new suit, a U.S. currency green medium herring-bone tweed suit.

 

[Fastuni]

Various kind of "integrated" belts existed in the Golden era - I can't quite figure out what your's exactly looks like.
I'd just use the belt and leave out the suspenders on this suit. But let's wait for the photo.

 

[Dick Ireland]

Sounds like a fantastic suit.

In my experience, suspenders make wearing high-waisted trousers SO much more comfortable and effortless that I think you ought to wear them, despite the self-belt.

One nice perk of DB suits is that they always cover the waist, so who'll notice?

 

[Tomasso]

One nice perk of DB suits is that they always cover the waist, so who'll notice?

My sentiments precisely.

 

[GBR]

Pictures?

It is however what it is so no suspenders.

 

[Evan Everhart]

 

[Evan Everhart]

 

[Evan Everhart]

Just posted pix. Sorry for the hold up. Hahaa! Hold up; pants! Ha! That's really the issue though, right? I don't care to do the sewing right now to take the waist in, and really prefer to wear suspenders but it seems like over-kill....

 

[Evan Everhart]

That's rather my feeling upon the issue as well. I prefer them, but also don't care to mutilate the suit either. It does have a certain charm to it despite the fact that it incorporates a belt, even if it is a half belt....

 

[Evan Everhart]

While I agree with the sentiment, the sheer fact that I'd be breaking one of my own rules not to mention just general rules of good taste which were hammered and drilled into me at a very young age would drive me insane, like a guilty conscience really....

 

[Evan Everhart]

Heh. Thanks! Yeah, it's a Beaut! I also agree, they make it bloody comfortable as hell, wearing the high waisted trousers (that's pretty much what I wear exclusively actually....But on the other hand, I was watching His Girl Friday the other day, and saw Cary Grant wearing a pair of side tabbed or DAKS trousers couldn't quite make out which in the opening scenes and thought "hmm, now there is a man who can pull off not wearing a belt or suspenders!" but, Mr. Grant's waist was quite a bit smaller than mine in proportion to his body, I am sure. Married life has made me fat, 7 inches fatter.....UGH. Now off to go an alter my golden-rod herring-bone tweed 2 pc sb....Let out the waist. I'm tired of sewing.

 

[Evan Everhart]

Here's my ultimate conundrum I suppose; either leave the trousers at their current waist adjustment and the half belt won't tighten enough to hold them in place perfectly (but perfect for suspenders), or take them in an inch and a half to two inches in which case the half belt will indeed work, but my mid-section will feel somewhat constricted, though as they fit at my natural waist (actually they rise to an inch and a quarter over the top of my navel), they naturally sit at my narrowest point....leeway?

 

[RM Bantista]

Here's my ultimate conundrum I suppose; either leave the trousers at their current waist adjustment and the half belt won't tighten enough to hold them in place perfectly (but perfect for suspenders), or take them in an inch and a half to two inches in which case the half belt will indeed work, but my mid-section will feel somewhat constricted, though as they fit at my natural waist (actually they rise to an inch and a quarter over the top of my navel), they naturally sit at my narrowest point....leeway?

Sir,
As the rule is to always wear one's db jacket buttoned, even when seated, in this particular instance one might well ignore the no belt with braces rule, as the best method to preserve and conserve the item is the simplest alteration of the original as may be possible under the circumstances as they are. One may simply add brace buttons to the inside of the trousers without in any way compromising the original cut and design of the item. Four buttons is a classical layout, and in those ancient days, one would wear the top and bottom buttons buttoned, even when seated. Therefore, it would never be evident to anyone that there was a half-belt present with the braces. The half-belt option may be regarded as one should consider side-adjusters on trousers, a fine thing to have when necessary. There may be those moments where the ability to allow as generous a waist as available is just the thing. In this instance, it is no violation of any stricture to install brace buttons on the inter waist to assist the fit and silhouette of the suit when worn in day-to-day life. Just as one does not remove a dinner jacket in the evening when seated. A double-breasted jacket should always remain on the gentleman's person and not be worn unbuttoned. The practice of leaving the bottom button undone is not as these items would have been worn in the old days. Pictures of the traditional as are generously available here in numerous classic posts show db 4-button suit coats with all buttons buttoned at all times. A gentleman's braces or belt should not be visible to the general public under any circumstances.
This may seem an extreme and somewhat eccentric attitude to many; however, it is also one that is not without sound foundation and evidentiary support, as only requires a bit of review of the pictorial scans of the 'ideal' as demonstrated in available resources.
So, please feel free to install brace buttons at your pleasure and if necessary to remove one's db jacket, an odd vest is helpful provided that it is obviously not intended to mimic the original fabric of the suit.
Good fortune attend you,
rudy