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drewgarcia618

New in Town
Messages
5
Hello all, I’m in need of some assistance!



I have a size 59 Screencapped hat in 50-50 Beaver/Rabbit that was custom made for me, but it’s a touch too big. While I have many western hats in 59 or 7 3/8 (Stetsons/a Standard Hatworks custom), the block used on this hat different enough that it’s just little too big.



I’m aware of and have tried putting foam, felt strips, paper towels, and leather into the sweatband. While these are serviceable, I’d like a more permanent solution. I also have wetted it and left it my truck on a hot day and tried the lamp trick, but neither of those did much of anything. I asked this question on Club Obi-Wan, since the maker is primarily an Indiana Jones hatter, and my hat is a riff on the classic Indy… one user suggested pulling the reed. I’ve never attempted this, and honestly I wouldn’t know what a reeded hat would feel like vs a non-reeded hat. That said, it doesn’t feel like there’s any wire or other reinforcement at the base of the sweat.



What I have thought about is removing the original leather band, ordering a new sweatband, and then sewing it in. I believe I only need to tighten it by .5 to 1cm. It’s not like I’m going from a 59 to a 54 haha.



Would this accomplish what I need done? Or, do I need to have it rebooked to a smaller size? I’m a teacher by day and tinkerer at heart, so being able to do this affordably and hands on would be ideal. I’d rather not throw $100 or more at reblocking a hat if I can avoid it.



Pics, if the link will work. If not, I don’t think they’re too important to my dilemma:


I’m pretty confident in my sewing ability. I do leatherwork as a hobby, have sewn patches onto jackets, repaired waxed canvas bags, etc. I have a speedy stitcher awl and small sewing machine needles I plan on using for this job, if I move forward with it.
 
Messages
10,792
Location
vancouver, canada
Hello all, I’m in need of some assistance!



I have a size 59 Screencapped hat in 50-50 Beaver/Rabbit that was custom made for me, but it’s a touch too big. While I have many western hats in 59 or 7 3/8 (Stetsons/a Standard Hatworks custom), the block used on this hat different enough that it’s just little too big.



I’m aware of and have tried putting foam, felt strips, paper towels, and leather into the sweatband. While these are serviceable, I’d like a more permanent solution. I also have wetted it and left it my truck on a hot day and tried the lamp trick, but neither of those did much of anything. I asked this question on Club Obi-Wan, since the maker is primarily an Indiana Jones hatter, and my hat is a riff on the classic Indy… one user suggested pulling the reed. I’ve never attempted this, and honestly I wouldn’t know what a reeded hat would feel like vs a non-reeded hat. That said, it doesn’t feel like there’s any wire or other reinforcement at the base of the sweat.



What I have thought about is removing the original leather band, ordering a new sweatband, and then sewing it in. I believe I only need to tighten it by .5 to 1cm. It’s not like I’m going from a 59 to a 54 haha.



Would this accomplish what I need done? Or, do I need to have it rebooked to a smaller size? I’m a teacher by day and tinkerer at heart, so being able to do this affordably and hands on would be ideal. I’d rather not throw $100 or more at reblocking a hat if I can avoid it.



Pics, if the link will work. If not, I don’t think they’re too important to my dilemma:


I’m pretty confident in my sewing ability. I do leatherwork as a hobby, have sewn patches onto jackets, repaired waxed canvas bags, etc. I have a speedy stitcher awl and small sewing machine needles I plan on using for this job, if I move forward with it.
As a hobbyist and now a full custom hat maker I have found that, in general, doing workarounds or shortcutting a solution, never ends up fully satisfactorily. There will be a gap between the new/smaller sweat as the felt will be too large to accommodate it. In the sewing you will hve to find a way to 'take up' the excess felt. Where will it go?
It has to go somewhere.

If you have a hat jack (or you could cut a 1" thick chunk of wood, to the desired dimension. Then insert it into the hat. Use a water spritz just at the brim break and then some steam, targeted to just that area.

You want to steam the brim break not the whole crown. Then with a blocking cord, cinch the felt to the new sized hat jack or wood block....let it sit for 24 hours with the cord cinched. You may be able to draw in the felt to the desired size and eliminate the problematic gap. The felt should be 1 centimetre larger than the desired hat size as the leather sweat takes up one centimetre. Make sure the person you buy the sized sweat band understands that the sweat must be tapered (drummed or belled) in order for it to fit.
 

drewgarcia618

New in Town
Messages
5
As a hobbyist and now a full custom hat maker I have found that, in general, doing workarounds or shortcutting a solution, never ends up fully satisfactorily. There will be a gap between the new/smaller sweat as the felt will be too large to accommodate it. In the sewing you will hve to find a way to 'take up' the excess felt. Where will it go?
It has to go somewhere.

If you have a hat jack (or you could cut a 1" thick chunk of wood, to the desired dimension. Then insert it into the hat. Use a water spritz just at the brim break and then some steam, targeted to just that area.

You want to steam the brim break not the whole crown. Then with a blocking cord, cinch the felt to the new sized hat jack or wood block....let it sit for 24 hours with the cord cinched. You may be able to draw in the felt to the desired size and eliminate the problematic gap. The felt should be 1 centimetre larger than the desired hat size as the leather sweat takes up one centimetre. Make sure the person you buy the sized sweat band understands that the sweat must be tapered (drummed or belled) in order for it to fit.
Interesting, you really think I could get by doing that with just a hat jack?
 
Messages
10,792
Location
vancouver, canada
Interesting, you really think I could get by doing that with just a hat jack?
Well, it is either that or buy a right sized block, strip the hat down, reblock and remake the hat.
I always ask.....what is there to lose in the attempt? What is the downside of trying? This is not theory. I am a custom hat maker and this is a technique that I use often.
 

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