Sewing Lessons & FAQ

Discussion in 'The Powder Room' started by Von Dee, Feb 12, 2006.

  1. Lady Day

    Lady Day I'll Lock Up Bartender

    Messages:
    9,083
    Location:
    Crummy town, USA
    Youve had major fit issues before, right? Ever think of cutting out all the drama and making a dress form? I didnt have one for years, then I did the duct tape thing and its the best thing Ive ever done! Im converted!

    From that I made slopers, and now Im confident Im not shooting a dart in the dark for fit on every new pattern I try.

    Its a few weeks of work, but could save you years of trial and error.

    LD
     
  2. With the caveat that I am no grading expert, I have to say that I don't like the way the author of that tutorial slashes and spreads the pattern through the neckline. Yes, you need it if you're grading up multiple sizes, but not for just one size! As you found out, that creates an enormous neckline.

    If it were me, I don't think I'd make that third split (the one that goes through the neckline) at all. Instead, I'd add the extra width to the other two splits. Then, if you need to, you can make your FBA.
     
  3. Christi.adell

    Christi.adell One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    115
    Location:
    Georgia

    Oh AWESOME. I think this might work for me as well. I'm many of those things too :D I'll definitly give this one a try. Trying to slash and spread it such a tiny amount was giving me a major headache. I was just worried adding just to the side seams would do something weird to the pattern. Thank you!

    Also: Thank you ShoreRoadLady. I'm glad I wasn't just doing something wrong since I just couldn't figure it out following those directions. I only tried that way because I saw it listed on many etsy patterns as the way to grade up or down. So I appreciate your input as well.
     
  4. Smuterella

    Smuterella One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,776
    Location:
    London
    How do I get started with using patterned fabric - I picked up some great wool check at a second hand store the other day and have a jacket I'd like to try and make but am not sure how to get it all to line up....
     
  5. kamikat

    kamikat Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,787
    Location:
    Maryland
    I'll be honest and say it doesn't work with every pattern. If the garment has pintuck or intricate design elements, weird pieces, it can distort the look. If you are new to grading, stick with very plain designs until you get comfortable with it.
     
  6. Christi.adell

    Christi.adell One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    115
    Location:
    Georgia

    I actually just made one! (after I made that pattern). I finally got my husband to help me with it. It is pretty awesome though it's taking some getting used to. I'm totally self taught and with a busy little one I probably create more drama than neccessary late at night when I get a minute to sew lol

    So basically you made slopers and then you compare your patterns against it and go from there?
     
  7. FraeuleinBerlin

    FraeuleinBerlin One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    106
    Location:
    England
    OK, I'm a sewing novice and I have some very confused questions:

    First of all, what material do you girls normally make your samples in? A friend of mine doing his fashion diploma says they make everything up in calico first, but some other suggestions would be useful as well.

    With regards to the yardage given on the back: you know the widths of material it gives (45", 60" etc.), is it vital that you buy that type of material? Or is that just to show how much you will need? I have a variety of patterns but was hoping just to buy a big roll of material for all of them. BUT they have different widths (and lots of them have a variety of widths) written on the back.

    Thank you!
     
  8. crwritt

    crwritt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,109
    Location:
    Falmouth ME
    Test garments are made of any inexpensive fabric with similar weight and stretch as the finished garment. Plain cotton muslin works well, and you can buy it cheaply by the bolt. Since it is white, it is easy to mark on .The chart on the back of the pattern lets you know how much yardage you will need.
    The layout charts show how to arrange the pattern pieces on the various widths.
    You can buy any width of fabric, but for the sake of economy and easy layout, wider is better. If you have the choice of 45 or 60 inch fabric at the same price, go ahead and get the 60".
     
  9. Black Dahlia

    Black Dahlia Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,496
    Location:
    The Portobello Club

    That is an excellent idea HepKitty! I will test the alteration out first on practice fabric. I just measured the pattern, and actually the waist is about 6 inches larger than the back flap indicated. So I probably won't have to enlarge the waist afterall. Still, going to test it out first.

    X
    BD
     
  10. Goldelfe

    Goldelfe New in Town

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Germany
    I'm trying to figure out how to sew a hooded cape for fall and winter.
    But I can't seem to find a pattern for a short cape (just over my shoulders) in that 'Little Red Riding Hood' style.

    Would you think some sort of rounded trapezoid (kinda.... 2thirds of a donut) + hood could work?

    Do I need to say that I'm a total newbie at sewing? ;)

    Thanks in advance
     
  11. MarieAnne

    MarieAnne Practically Family

    Messages:
    555
    Location:
    Ontario
    Check the costumes section of sewing pattern companies.
     
  12. shebagrl

    shebagrl Familiar Face

    Messages:
    84
    Location:
    Columbus, OH
    Thanks for the link...so many darling fabrics! Bozeman's such a pretty town. I visited there once 13 years ago and have always wanted to go back.
     
  13. HepKitty

    HepKitty One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,156
    Location:
    Idaho
    no problem. yes Bozeman is nice, I have friends there that I really should visit again sometime soon...
     
  14. velvetongue

    velvetongue Familiar Face

    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    New York
    Using slopers to fit pattern?

    I recently made a bodice and skirt sloper and was wondering how to use them to fit existing patterns. Sorry if this question sounds rudimentary, but do you just lay the sloper over the pattern pieces to see if they fit? I still find myself measuring pattern pieces flat and making a muslin just in case.
     
  15. Lady Day

    Lady Day I'll Lock Up Bartender

    Messages:
    9,083
    Location:
    Crummy town, USA
    Check this article from Threads Magazine.

    LD
     
  16. Christi.adell

    Christi.adell One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    115
    Location:
    Georgia
    That's awesome. Thank you for posting that.
     
  17. velvetongue

    velvetongue Familiar Face

    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    New York
    Thank you, LadyDay!
     
  18. velvetongue

    velvetongue Familiar Face

    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    New York
    Raising armscye/armhole in bodice?

    I'm currently working on my second version of this pattern and I need to raise the armscye (armhole depth) by about an inch. Usually when I do this I take up the shoulder seams, but this has a saddle shoulder, which is cut in one piece with the part of the collar, and there is no shoulder seam. Do I just make a tuck in the shoulder piece and redraft? The pieces of the Simplicity pattern kind of look like this: http://www.meladori.com/shesinfashion/2010/07/techniques-the-strap-shoulder/
     
  19. BoPeep

    BoPeep Practically Family

    Messages:
    638
    Location:
    Pasturelands, Wisc
    Can't wait to see your finished dress, velvetongue. I have that same pattern in my box and haven't tried it yet. Looks like a nice, comfy day dress.
     
  20. Mrs Cleaver

    Mrs Cleaver One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    161
    Location:
    N.S.W Australia
    Hello:)I was wondering if any of you lovely ladies could help me? Since it is often quite hard to find dresses in my size i was thinking that if i find a dress in a slightly bigger size i might be able to take it in.A specific example is a dress i found on etsy.I love the pattern , colour & style but it is a few inches too big in the bust & waist.It has darts coming down from the bust to the waist,which is waisted with a full skirt.Would it be difficult to take it in if it has darts? I don't know anything about sewing so i'm sorry if this is a stupid question.The bust would have to come in about 4 inches & the waist about 2 inches.Thanks in advance for any help you can give:)
     

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