Short Light Jacket & Leather Advice: Mulligan or Jean Jacket?

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Feliksas, Jul 22, 2020.

  1. Feliksas

    Feliksas One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    Howdy folks,

    Some of you might remember me from the "mongrel" custom J-106 I posted last year in Natural CXL. I love the jacket, it's broken in beautifully, but now I'm looking for a lighter, short, jacket in light brown. I asked Aero if they would make a custom Ike, AKA, Battledress jacket for me, but they said no. Prior to my Ike jacket, and now my J-106, I wore a Type III jean jacket, and so I think I'd like to go for the Aero Jean Jacket Type III or the Mulligan.

    Jean jacket wise, I have few reservations--I think it looks more formal in leather, and therefore is still a "formal step up" (in my opinion) than the J-106, and I love how short it is. I'm considering getting epaulets just to make it a little bit more military, like my Ike jacket, but I'm not sure about that yet.

    Mulligan wise, I like its versatility, but am not sure if it's short enough, and I don't love the half-belt look in the back. Furthermore, I'm not sure how slim it is.

    Question 1: Does anyone have fit-picks of the Mulligan or the Jean Jacket, ideally buttoned up, including a picture of the back? Again, I like a short jacket--the J-106 is pretty good, I'd certainly go no longer, and might even go shorter.

    Leather wise, I love what happens to the natural cxl HH, and I'm looking for a light brown jacket. Initially, I thought I was sold on the battered tan, as it should make for a lighter jacket, but now I'm not sure--it kind of looks like a more beaten up version of my natural cxl that I have now, which is fine, I like the vintage look. But I also love the feel of the russet goatskin, although from what I understand, it doesn't really age, and I like my jackets to develop a patina. So what about the Russet horsehide? I suppose the two main factors, in order of importance are: 1. Patina and aging ability and 2. Not too much darker than my quite dark now natural cxl HH.

    Question 2: Does anyone have pics of how their Aero russet goatskin aged? What about russet Italian HH, or russet jerky HH? How does the battered tan horsehide age?

    My build for either will be relatively simple: rack size 38, olive cotton drill lining, campfire label, olive stitching, and "blazer" breast pockets inside; for the Jean Jacket specifically, if I go that way, all the previous apply and I'll add handwarmer pockets, keep the stud buttons, and get rid of the red "LEVIS" style front label.

    Any thoughts or answers to these questions would be appreciated!

    Spectemur agendo,

    -F
     
  2. Guppy

    Guppy My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,482
    Location:
    Cleveland, OH
    Please post update pics on the J-106 when you can. We'd all love to see how it's developed.

    As for Mulligan vs. Type III Trucker jacket, they're very different styles. Type III is a timeless design that has never gone out of production and thus would be more contemporary. It's also a much more casual look, and has something of a western or country vibe to it. The Mulligan is a style that hasn't been seen or talked about much on these forums, and I've never owned one, so I don't have a lot to say about it myself. I would say it seems like a more dressed up style that could work for somewhat more formal occasions than a Type III would be appropriate for. I'm personally not such a fan of the design of the pocket flaps. You might also take a look at the Dustbowl, the Route 66, or the Trail Rider if you're looking for something shorter. Personally I like all three of the styles I mentioned more than the Mulligan.

    I have seen photos of Aero's "battered tan" CXL FQHH that looks over-done in terms of artificial aging, but some people really like it. I've seen other examples of "tumbled" or "battered" leather from Aero which barely look like they were aged at all. Such a wide variation makes me leery to try them. I also don't know whether "battered" and "tumbled" are synonymous or if they represent different degrees of mechanical wear -- that's something I would seek clarification on before ordering. In any case, it'll get there naturally if you wear it often, so unless you really dislike breaking in a new jacket, I don't see a ot of point to these options.
     
  3. Feliksas

    Feliksas One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    I've been meaning to for a while, and I've worn it almost every day for a year, but recently, the weather has been poor--as soon as the sun is out and I have someone to take photos, will do!

    Really, the unifying factor for me is the Ike jacket, i.e., a short jacket, ideally with lapels but not necessarily, with buttons and probably front pockets, and with a snug fit. Both kind of check those boxes for me. Regarding the Jean Jacket, really, I think it's only the stitching and stud-buttons that make it look "western"--it might easily be converted into something like the Ike jacket, and I'm still toying with the idea, i.e., having the studs replaced with real buttons, no flamboyant stitching on the front, and we'd be close to the Ike....

    As the day wears on (I got my samples today), I'm leaning more and more towards either the russet HH or goatskin--both check a military box for me, I'm just torn about the patina question...

    Anyway, photos of the mongrel soon! Thanks for the thoughts :)

    Spectemur agendo,

    F
     
  4. Guppy

    Guppy My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,482
    Location:
    Cleveland, OH
    From everything I see, goatskin ages the least/slowest of any leather Aero uses. If you want to develop patina/character over time, FQHH or Steer are the way to go. I think CXL Steer is extremely good stuff. Aero have started using Badalassi, which is another excellent leather. Jerky is another good choice if you like horsehide. Russet, seal, tan, cordovan, brown... tough call, just a matter of taste.
     
  5. Peter Bowden

    Peter Bowden Practically Family

    Messages:
    585
    Location:
    united kingdom
    I do not have any fit pics but I can give you the dimensions of my Mulligan in a nominal size 46
    Back 28.5" Shoulder 20" Arm 26.5" and Pit to Pit 25.5"-I don't recall asking for non standard differences to the pattern.
    It is quite a roomy jacket and the rear hem typically rests on the top of jean pockets.Though advertised as workwear it is actually quite versatile and I think looks great with cord or tweed trousers.Mine is in CXFQHH with a moleskin lining but you might find a cotton lining allows year round wear though mine has become a fovourite so I just overheat.Love it and I don't think you would be disappointed.It has real long term appeal.
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2020
    Cornelius likes this.
  6. Feliksas

    Feliksas One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    I'm still debating the question--I love the front, but the back! I don't know...but you're right, it feels like an everything jacket. If I don't get it now, it will be my long-term next jacket buy for sure.
     
    Peter Bowden likes this.
  7. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,922
    Location:
    Germany
    They are very different styles which makes me think you should take your time and really make up your mind what you are looking for in your new jacket.

    If you like military styles, buttons and short, maybe consider an A-1? Personally I am no fan of that A1 collar but changing that to a regular shirt style collar should be easier than the numerous modifications you have in mind for the jeans jacket - let's be real here, you don't want a jeans jacket.
     
  8. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    8,040
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    I think Thedi makes the sort of styles you are describing, and he’s open to customization.
     
  9. Feliksas

    Feliksas One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    Well, I want a short light jacket in leather, and the last short jacket that I liked was the Ike, but Aero won't make me one--and before the Ike, I did the Type III for a decade or so, and Aero makes a Type III. It feels like the closest "off the rack"-ish short leather jacket that I want :D

    I keep on forgetting about these guys--and when I rediscover them, everything is cast into doubt :D Thanks for the reminder, I'll think about an option from them, too!
     
  10. Guppy

    Guppy My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    3,482
    Location:
    Cleveland, OH
    Have you considered the Aeromarine?
     
  11. Feliksas

    Feliksas One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    I continue to consider the Aeromarine--it never quite makes my top 2, but every time I see it, I'm surprised anew by how much I like it. In fact, I'm going to check it out again now :)
     
    Guppy likes this.
  12. torfjord

    torfjord One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,189
    Feliksas and handymike like this.
  13. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    8,040
    Location:
    SoCal
    This is what I like, incredible!
     
  14. Feliksas

    Feliksas One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    [​IMG]

    I'd get this in a heartbeat, but modified to have buttons, a lapel, and epaulets--it would be the jacket that I wanted years ago :)
     
    handymike, Cornelius and torfjord like this.

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