Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

Discussion in 'Suits' started by Marc Chevalier, Feb 15, 2012.

  1. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,262
    Location:
    Germany
    I may have a jacket or a complete suit with the same fabric. Can you show a close-up of the fabric (photo with a button, so I can get the proper dimensions)?
    So you could complete it to a suit or even have a suit with two pairs of trousers (always a good thing).
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2016
  2. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    521
    Location:
    Germany
    Thanks for the offer, Fastuni.
    Now it's out for a drycleaning but I gonna give you some pictures later.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2016
  3. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,262
    Location:
    Germany
    A splendid suit with unusual history:

    The suit itself is a three-piece DB, tailored from medium-heavy navy-blue white-speckled structure-stripe worsted wool cloth.
    Fits me perfectly without any alteration.

    Now the history:

    Tailored by "Friedrich Jacobskötter, Erfurt" - Erfurt is a city in Thuringia.

    Friedrich was succesor of Johannes Jacobskötter (1839-1911) who founded the shop in 1866 (soon with 20 workers, 12 machines)
    and became headmaster of the tailor's guild in 1886. He was politically very active in the pro-Bismarck "German Conservative Party"
    and strongly opposed to Eastern Jewish immigrants. He contributed to the introduction of antisemitic positions into the program of the
    "German Conservative Party" in 1892. 1893 - 1903 he was representative of Erfurt district 4 in German Reichstag (parliament) and 1904 - 1908 member of
    the Prussian house of representatives.

    But not only the label is historically significant, but also two stamps along the centre-seam of the lining.

    [​IMG]

    It reads:

    Man(?) Franco Torri - Milano
    Cat 0 Tipo 12 c(?) Lit (?) 1943( 45, 46 ?)

    "Exportazione" (?)

    Could be "Manufacturer Franco Torri -Milano"
    Category - Type -etc.

    "Export".

    So Italian made fabric exported to Germany and made into a suit in Erfurt.

    (My first theory was that it read "Deportazione" and belonged perhaps to an Italian prisoner in Germany... but the exported fabric is much more plausible.)

    ---

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A small fix I made, was adding snap-buttons to the lapel peaks to give them hold.
    [​IMG]

    Matching period hanger that I found separately:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2016
  4. Patrick Hall

    Patrick Hall Practically Family

    Messages:
    541
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    Lovely suit Fastuni, with an interesting history. The snap-button fix to fly-away lapels is quite ingenious. It works well without creating strange stress creases on the lapels?
     
  5. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,262
    Location:
    Germany
    No creases on the lapels - certainly also thanks to the canvassing of the chest.
    I took the idea from military tunics, where the chest-pocket flap corners are often fixed by two snap buttons.
     
    Patrick Hall likes this.
  6. Mathematicus

    Mathematicus A-List Customer

    Messages:
    378
    Location:
    Coventry, UK
    I read a couple of days ago but I hadn't time to reply. Your theory is right, since "Man." stands for "Manifattura" that is a word often used to indicate mills producing suiting. "LIT" is the price, it meas "Lire ITaliane" that is to say "Italian lira", the old Italian money before euro.
    Aside this, the suit is really beautiful!
     
    Dirk Wainscotting likes this.
  7. Two Types

    Two Types I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,456
    Location:
    London, UK
    That was a good idea to add the snaps under the lapels. That shape of lapel doesn't hold its shape. I have a jacket with the same lapels (the jacket was from you) and they constantly sag.
     
  8. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,262
    Location:
    Germany
    Sometimes rhese lapels had metal stays or long steel needles. Snaps are a good solution though.
     
  9. Metatron

    Metatron One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,483
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    Firstly, great suit.
    I love this type of lapel because it's just a little bit eccentric-it curves like a tree branch or something organic. It is exactly the sort of thing you don't see post-1950s.
    I love your snap solution-Having said that, I like the rumpled look of sagging peak lapels. It has that effect of making a smart garment look well loved and casual, which again is something I associate with the 1930s-1950s way of dressing.
     
  10. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    521
    Location:
    Germany
    Today's accession:
    German belt back sport coat; SB with 3 buttons; I think mid/end 30's. It is a light wool fabric, grey checkered with blue windowpane.
    The label says "Ihr Kleiderberater (your Outfitter) Lennartz & Plein Stuttgart": It was founded in 1931 as a fashion store, in 1934 they got their own tailoring.

    Unfortunately it is slightly dirty and has some holes. But it fits like a glove so I gonna darn it.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    In every of the 3 outside pockets there's a small one: What does this mean? Watch? Money?
    [​IMG]

    All the original buttons were cut off but I got these to add. What do you think?
    [​IMG]
     
    Two Types and Dostioffsky like this.
  11. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    521
    Location:
    Germany
    Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits
    Just recognized, that my coat above is nearly the same cut as the coat of Fastunis sports suit!
    And that's why I had a second look at the back: there's also a elastic under the belt...
     
  12. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,262
    Location:
    Germany
    Great sportcoat. Really lovely.
    The small damages can be darned well - thanks to the busy pattern.
    The buttons work fine.

    It is certainly interesting that there is an elastic band beneath the belt-back.
    A bit redundant - but HBK years ago also showed a probably German sportcoat with these double features.
     
  13. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    521
    Location:
    Germany
    Thank's Fastuni! Hope a good clean will help to make it even better. ;)
    Am I right in dating it 30's?
    Do you know anything more about the tailor? I read they existed till the 1980's.

    Not sure whether it's recognizable on the picture: either the elastic band got hard or just the fabric is gathered by a ribbon...
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Dostioffsky

    Dostioffsky One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    213
    Location:
    the Netherlands
    I really like the breastpocket shape! Those vertical button hole, too!
     
  15. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,262
    Location:
    Germany
    I don't know more about this tailor. There were (fortunately) so many of them.
    It is without any doubt second half of 1930's.
     
  16. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    521
    Location:
    Germany
    I know it's not the accurate threat (I will post a pic in the overcoats thread to) but I think the "story" of the coat is important to be shown here in the German suit thread...

    The coat itself is a (normal) late 30's DB, tailored from heavy dark and light grey herringbone wool cloth.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    curiously there are 3 button holes on every side:
    [​IMG]

    I think it was shortened about 15 cm (in the 60's?) - there is still the fabric inside the lining:
    [​IMG]

    And now the labels: "L&Cie"
    [​IMG]

    and "ADEFA - Arbeitsgemeinschaft Deutsch-Arischer Fabrikanten der Bekleidungsindustrie" - means "Consortium of German-Arian Manufacturers of the Apparel Industrie".
    It was founded by the Nazis in Mai 1933 to crowd the Jews out of the apparel industrie and to create an "Arian Fashion" - certainly with some succes, because in the late 30's many creative Jewish tailors weren't able to work anymore and emigrated...
    http://www.giselamueller.info/threadlagged/threadlagged/adefa.htm
    [​IMG]

    I just "saved" it - if there's a collector outside with interest please contact me.
     
  17. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,262
    Location:
    Germany
  18. Dirk Wainscotting

    Dirk Wainscotting A-List Customer

    Messages:
    355
    Location:
    Irgendwo
    Superb. The leather-trimmed facing running around the inside pocket is tremendous.
     
  19. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,262
    Location:
    Germany
    The edge trimming is silky lining material, actually.
     
  20. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    521
    Location:
    Germany
    Thanks for the information, Fastuni.
    Back then the same things were discussed going through my mind: I won't wear this coat...

    @DW. Fastuni is right - it's a silky material...
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.