Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

Discussion in 'Suits' started by Marc Chevalier, Feb 15, 2012.

  1. herringbonekid

    herringbonekid I'll Lock Up

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    6,022
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    East Sussex, England
    i prefer the DB waistcoat without lapels as it looks leaner and less fussy.
     
  2. Dirk Wainscotting

    Dirk Wainscotting A-List Customer

    Messages:
    355
    Location:
    Irgendwo
    German waistcoats (up to at least the 70s, maybe later) have interesting variations; different from the standard SB, no collar four pockets cut of many English suits. The fifth flapped 'ticket pocket' turns up quite frequently, as do double-breasted-no-collar cuts.
     
  3. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    C&A Brenninkmeyer suit from the late 1930's to 40's.
    Great medium heavy, tweedy salt&pepper cloth with blue stripes.
    Trousers have been narrowed to late 40's-50's taste, but can easily be returned to full width. Cuffless.

    The size is a Regular/Short 36-38. PM me if interested in details.
    The hat is a sz. 54 cm and goes well with the suit...

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    Classifieds: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?83672
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2015
    PeterB likes this.
  4. PeterB

    PeterB One of the Regulars

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    Abu Dhabi
    Beautiful suit. Fantastic pattern.
     
  5. Trenchfriend

    Trenchfriend I'll Lock Up

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    Germany
  6. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

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    Germany
  7. Trenchfriend

    Trenchfriend I'll Lock Up

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    Germany
    Thanks!
     
  8. Metatron

    Metatron One Too Many

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    1,470
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    I found a thing:

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    The label reads 'wien kaerntner ring 6': A street in central Vienna.


    The chest pocket is massive.
    It also features a wide chest with a sharply tapered waist and half lined. I believe this is called a drape cut.


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    The old, brown Harris Tweed label, without the 100% wool line. I believe this indicates that it's from the 1940s.
    Can anyone confirm when the 100% wool line was introduced? I understand that these details are not a definitive means of dating the garment.
    The use of a British cloth in combination with the half lining makes me think post-war.


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    There are two round patches made from a beige fuzzy fabric on the inside of the jacket, near each side seam. No idea what their purpose is.


    The coat was bought from a US based seller. How did it end up there? Sold to a US serviceman belonging to the occupation forces? Or someone who emigrated to the US? who knows.


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    Here is a cloth comparison with my other Harris tweed: Same colours but different density. This appears to have been a very popular weave at the time, and seemingly non existent today.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2015
  9. herringbonekid

    herringbonekid I'll Lock Up

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    Meta, are the round patches on the back area of the patch pocket corners ? if so, they're simply reinforcing pads. they used to do that on half-lined tweed jackets and university blazers.
    date wise the jacket looks late 40s - early 50s.
     
  10. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    Congratulations Metatron! I am rather envious as it is a veritable piece of post-war history.

    I have no doubt that this sportcoat was made in Vienna between 1945-55 for a serviceman of the US occupation forces.
    It is made in thoroughly American manner (butterfly lining, boxy cut), very unlike traditional German/Central-European tailoring and explains why it was taken to the USA.
    Kärntnerring 6 is near the famous "Hotel Sacher" which was used by US officers.

    Very much a thing for the "Third Man". ;)

    I am sure it was made from a batch of pre-war imported British Harris Tweed.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2015
  11. Metatron

    Metatron One Too Many

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    HBK, it is as you say. I wonder why a reinforcement in just that area?

    Fastuni, thanks. I suspected as much, but the info on the US army frequented hotel confirms it.

    While the chest is drapey, the waist is fitted.

    I thought of the Third Man as well. :cool:
    I quite like the multi-national provenance of the jacket- A British, American and German collaboration!
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2015
  12. herringbonekid

    herringbonekid I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,022
    Location:
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    pocket stress points, in a nutshell (or rather... stress on the front fabric, rather than the pocket itself).
     
  13. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

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    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    The crowning final trophy of a sucessful vintage-hunting year.
    1930's German sport-suit. Caramel herringbone - solid trousers but rust windowpane on jacket.
    Needs a good cleaning, some mends and the elastic in the back needs to be reattached.

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    Last edited: Dec 31, 2015
  14. Papperskatt

    Papperskatt Practically Family

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    506
    Location:
    Sweden
    Very very nice.
     
  15. Metatron

    Metatron One Too Many

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    Lovely! What a subtle check. Just re-read your post and noticed only the jacket has an overcheck. Strange!! By design or necessity I wonder?
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2016
  16. Trenchfriend

    Trenchfriend I'll Lock Up

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    Germany
    A beauty!
     
  17. Flat Foot Floey

    Flat Foot Floey My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,220
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    Germany
    Fantastic find, Fastuni. I recently met up with a friend from brandenburg who also found several good 30s pieces last year. And I thought it was impossible.
     
    Fallen Cherub likes this.
  18. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    Thanks guys. Yes there are still some good finds to be made out there.

    Metatron, this was certainly made this way on purpose.
    It was a late-30's early-40's fashion in Germany/Europe at least, to make such combinations.
    Here not identical but similar... checked coat with striped trousers:

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  19. Trenchfriend

    Trenchfriend I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,593
    Location:
    Germany
    Wonderful!
     
  20. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    German peaked lapel suit-coat, that is wonderfully suitable as an odd sportcoat with flannels.

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    Patrick Hall and herringbonekid like this.

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