Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Suits' started by Marc Chevalier, Feb 15, 2012.
i prefer the DB waistcoat without lapels as it looks leaner and less fussy.
German waistcoats (up to at least the 70s, maybe later) have interesting variations; different from the standard SB, no collar four pockets cut of many English suits. The fifth flapped 'ticket pocket' turns up quite frequently, as do double-breasted-no-collar cuts.
C&A Brenninkmeyer suit from the late 1930's to 40's.
Great medium heavy, tweedy salt&pepper cloth with blue stripes.
Trousers have been narrowed to late 40's-50's taste, but can easily be returned to full width. Cuffless.
The size is a Regular/Short 36-38. PM me if interested in details.
The hat is a sz. 54 cm and goes well with the suit...
Beautiful suit. Fantastic pattern.
The 1930's logo is missing from the chart you linked.
Late 1930's Dutch advertisement for a C&A double-breasted suit: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/29/5e/6d/295e6d2d7ac0545fef71b56d0b84dcff.jpg
Here another 1930's C&A Brenninkmeyer suit I presented here long ago:
I found a thing:
The label reads 'wien kaerntner ring 6': A street in central Vienna.
The chest pocket is massive.
It also features a wide chest with a sharply tapered waist and half lined. I believe this is called a drape cut.
The old, brown Harris Tweed label, without the 100% wool line. I believe this indicates that it's from the 1940s.
Can anyone confirm when the 100% wool line was introduced? I understand that these details are not a definitive means of dating the garment.
The use of a British cloth in combination with the half lining makes me think post-war.
There are two round patches made from a beige fuzzy fabric on the inside of the jacket, near each side seam. No idea what their purpose is.
The coat was bought from a US based seller. How did it end up there? Sold to a US serviceman belonging to the occupation forces? Or someone who emigrated to the US? who knows.
Here is a cloth comparison with my other Harris tweed: Same colours but different density. This appears to have been a very popular weave at the time, and seemingly non existent today.
Meta, are the round patches on the back area of the patch pocket corners ? if so, they're simply reinforcing pads. they used to do that on half-lined tweed jackets and university blazers.
date wise the jacket looks late 40s - early 50s.
Congratulations Metatron! I am rather envious as it is a veritable piece of post-war history.
I have no doubt that this sportcoat was made in Vienna between 1945-55 for a serviceman of the US occupation forces.
It is made in thoroughly American manner (butterfly lining, boxy cut), very unlike traditional German/Central-European tailoring and explains why it was taken to the USA.
Kärntnerring 6 is near the famous "Hotel Sacher" which was used by US officers.
Very much a thing for the "Third Man".
I am sure it was made from a batch of pre-war imported British Harris Tweed.
HBK, it is as you say. I wonder why a reinforcement in just that area?
Fastuni, thanks. I suspected as much, but the info on the US army frequented hotel confirms it.
While the chest is drapey, the waist is fitted.
I thought of the Third Man as well.
I quite like the multi-national provenance of the jacket- A British, American and German collaboration!
pocket stress points, in a nutshell (or rather... stress on the front fabric, rather than the pocket itself).
The crowning final trophy of a sucessful vintage-hunting year.
1930's German sport-suit. Caramel herringbone - solid trousers but rust windowpane on jacket.
Needs a good cleaning, some mends and the elastic in the back needs to be reattached.
Very very nice.
Lovely! What a subtle check. Just re-read your post and noticed only the jacket has an overcheck. Strange!! By design or necessity I wonder?
Fantastic find, Fastuni. I recently met up with a friend from brandenburg who also found several good 30s pieces last year. And I thought it was impossible.
Thanks guys. Yes there are still some good finds to be made out there.
Metatron, this was certainly made this way on purpose.
It was a late-30's early-40's fashion in Germany/Europe at least, to make such combinations.
Here not identical but similar... checked coat with striped trousers:
German peaked lapel suit-coat, that is wonderfully suitable as an odd sportcoat with flannels.