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Discussion in 'Hats' started by alanfgag, Aug 28, 2012.
Stefan, Great comparisons! I need to look over your posts more closely when I find time.
Some modern brown Stetson fedoras.
Left front is a Noble in mink, center back is a Bogie in tobacco, on the right is a Raleigh in mink.
It's amazing how subtle the effect is between the hats. It took me a long time to figure it out. The Noble just works with a brown horsehide jacket. Nails it. The Bogie is more dress up and really complements a black leather jacket. If I'm out super-casual wearing a $39 fleece jacket from Cabela's, the Raleigh is perfect. On the head, the Raleigh has just a touch of a cowboy curl, which you wouldn't expect reading the description in the Stetson catalog.
I know we're getting into straw weather, but all three are still getting pretty continuous wear.
Nice comparison. I really like that tobacco colour.
Posted a comparison of grey homburg and homburg like hats last week here. One was left out and that was a Barbisio in ticino colour. It gets a comparison of its own now. I have put it next to the Resolut hat that was in the earlier comparison. Here they are.
Not much between them, but all in all the Barbisio is the better hat all around. The Resolut is on the left with the lighter colour and the more silver/grey coloured brim binding. The Barbisio is on the right with the more cream coloured brim binding.
Finishing is well done on both hats, but the Barbisio (top -with the double row of stitches) has a more elaborate brim binding, where the Resolut (bottom) has the more simple approach. The felt on the Barbisio has a nicer hand to it as well.
Again: not much between them , but the Barbisio seems a bit more formal with its fairly square looking crown, than the Resolut which seems a bit more rounded in shape and has some light taper to it.
Below: the finish of the back seam of the brim binding is nice and tight on both of them, but on the Barbisio it is hardly visible.
The side view shows the very straight lines of the Barbisio as opposed to the slightly more rounded shape of the Resolut. The difference in felt can be seen here too. The Resolut has a more springy feel and takes some convincing to shape, while the Barbisio just dry-creases easily.
The difference in brim binding viewed from the side (above and below). The bow on the Resolut is a bit more playful and far less formal than the Barbisio.
All in all two excellent hats of the not quite homburg variety. The style is called "camber" by some brands (P&C Habig is one).
Brothers from different mothers – A Modern Stetson Centerdent (left) and a vintage Crofut & Knapp panama (right).
These two have a lot in common. The weight, weave and pattern, finished crown height (4 ¾), brim (2 ¾ and 2 ½ respectively), pinch, softness/pliability of the straw, and the overall appearance are extremely similar. On my head, I actually have to take them off to remember which I am wearing. To the casual observer, they look to be the same hat.
Where they differ; the Stetson wears a grosgrain ribbon and bow while the C&K sports a nice multi-colored grey/black/silver pug making it, to me, a bit more traditional. The Stetson crown is, as its name suggests, a center dent whereas the C&K has a teardrop. Stetson uses a cloth/velvet sweatband (the biggest drawback IMHO) while the C&K sticks with the nicer leather sweat. The C&K has a slightly darker and more gold color due to age more than anything else IMO.
When held up to light, the Stetson has fewer “pinholes” of light through the weave but I attribute this more to the shellac or finish coating on the Stetson rather than any real difference in the tightness of the weave.
I have not been able to find much information on C&K panamas, so any input would be appreciated. One of the prior owners of this C&K had a bad habit of handling it at the pinch, so there is a slight crease in the straw. I have not spent much time on it yet but a bit of steam should smooth it out.
Overall, the C&K gets my nod as the better of the two with the more traditional look, leather sweat, and, of course, being the older of the two (vintage). That being said, if you have not found the vintage panama you are looking for, or if you need a capable and attractive straw and don’t want to have to worry about damaging a vintage lid, the Centerdent is a great option.
(The picture above is reversed for some reason.)
70 years of top hats side by side:
left to right, c.1865, c.1900, 1915, c.1935
crown heights, bottom to top - c.1865 - 7 1/2", c.1900 - 6 1/4", 1915 - 5 3/4", c.1935 - 5 1/2".
J.Emig, c.1865, ventilated Dunlap c.1900, Crofut & Knapp (Argentine nutria) 1915, private label for B.Altman c.1935
All hats are covered in silk plush except for the C&K. The early J.Emig is the only hat finished with silk plush on the underbrim.
Don't know why I didn't see this one before, but very nice comparison, Randy. I think I'd go for the C&K, but mainly because I like that it has a woven brim edge.
Terrific, Alan. Thanks for posting this. Amazing that they could produce such a sheen on a hat that wasn't silk plush, meaning the C&K.
It's virtually impossible to tell it is not silk... which has always made me wonder...
Quick look at an early 1960's Stetson 7XCB OR on the left, with a post-1965 7X Fifty on the right. It's raining outside today so lighting could be better.
Jack; How does the felt differ, if at all? The proportions, hue, block and brim all stand clear from the pics.
Edited later after reading a different thread: Jack answered the question about the felt characteristics here - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/how-sweet-it-is-stetson-fifty.16255/page-2#post-2573926
Thanks for posting. I have said before, but bears mentioning again, this is a fav thread.
The 7XCB OR on the left has a brim width of 2-3/4" while the Fifty is 2-1/2". If I were to measure the open crown I'm sure both would be at 5-3/4".
LBJ preferred wearing Resistol's & preferred a 2-1/2" brim. I've wondered if that is the major reason for the 2-1/2" gaining in popularity by the late 1960's - early 1970's?
Good morning Side By Side fans. This morning I am sorting thru a stack of gray hats in order to gift a couple to a same size hat wearing musician friend of mine. I thought that these 3 hats were unique. Unique in that, to me, the brands are not what is usually featured on the Hat forum and they share similar features and vintage. The pics speak to the details better than my written skills can.
The hats are presented in the same order throughout the pics ( Beaver Hats, Resistol and Adam).
Just enjoying a gray hat morning.
Thanks for posting these, Eric. My favourite colour combination. All of those look to be great hats. If I had to pick one it would be the Resistol because of the blueish tones and the way the felt seems to crease.
A nice trio. Thanks for posting.