Side By Side/ Hat Comparisons

[TheDane]

It is certainly a beautiful element if nothing else.

Absolutely!

Here we go.....

No, Sir!

 

[Landman]

Beautiful hats and great comparison Alan!

Ole, I had never thought about the stitching possibly being too close together but it certainly makes sense. I just always considered it a sign of better quality and more detailed craftsmanship.

I noticed one of the hats has "Kettle Finish" on the sweatband. Does that refer to the roll of the brim edge or some other treatment of the felt?

 

[Landman]

After posting my question I found this information in another thread on the Lounge. I need to "search before asking"

"Stetson Hats and the John B. Stetson Company, 1865-1970"
by Jeffrey B. Snyder, page 31:

"Boss Raw Edge Kettle Finish

This is a Stetson hand finishing technique. Hats made of nutria
or beaver felt were curled and shaped at the kettle, applying hot
water to the brim and carefully curling it. This process created
a hat that would retain its shape under extreme weather
conditions. No binding was needed to keep the curl in the brim.
Kettle finished brims ranged from heavily to slightly curled.
Style names of hats finished in this way included Richmond,
Sorento, Panama, Graeco, Express, Niagrara, Columbia, Denver,
Dakota, and Buffalo Bill."

 

[RBH]

Excellent job Allan.
Well done!

 

[alanfgag]

After posting my question I found this information in another thread on the Lounge. I need to "search before asking"

"Stetson Hats and the John B. Stetson Company, 1865-1970"
by Jeffrey B. Snyder

Snyder's book remains available. It is not without limitations, but a nice book to have on hand for the Stetson enthusiast.

 

[Purplesage]

HAC Block 82, 5 3/4 Hat Models

I thought this would be an interesting side by side because because Dobbs, Knox , Cavanagh and Crofut & Knapp, who were all part of HAC, shared the same block on their respective hat models sort of like Chevy, Buick, Pontiac and Oldsmobile shared the same blocks on their respective vehicle models.


Knox Premier Quality

Knox Superfine Foxhound

Dobbs Golden Coach Fifteen Gamebird

 

[Purplesage]

HAC Block 82, 5 3/4 Hat Models (Cont)

Dobbs Fifth Ave

Dobbs Fifth Ave

Knox Fifteen Custom Edge

 

[fedoracentric]

Snyder's book remains available. It is not without limitations, but a nice book to have on hand for the Stetson enthusiast.

I found it on ebay for about $20 after finding out about the book here. I was a bit disappointed, though. It was very, very cursory. Not much in depth info at all, sadly.

 

[ManofKent]

Nice comparison PS.

 

[hatophile]

Those are some killer hats, PS.

 

[Purplesage]

Thank you for the compliments ManofKent and hatophiile. It's like the undercarriage is the same but they all have different sheet metal.

 

[Miamibruno]

Excellent detective work, PS. Plus the hats are spectacular.

 

[hatsRme]

Here's something I've been meaning to do since the dead of winter. I snagged this terrific Crofut and Knapp Milan and couldn't believe how similar in weave "gauge" it is to the currently produced product.
Here's Art Fawcett's (early model, on the right) Milan next to the C&K factory made version... Mr. Fawcett's stack up quite nicely!!

 

[mikespens]

Nice comparo Charlie. Art's milan looks to be an even finer weave than the vintage example. It would be nice to know where he sources it since Optimo claims to be the sole proprietor of modern milan. Another interesting comparo would be vintage milan vs current hemp "milan". Actually, there is no comparison there. The finest vintage milan I've handled are the Supernaturals from The Equadorian Panama Hat Co. but I'm sure other vintage brands share the same quality. Doubt there were exclusive rights to milan sources then.

The other difference that stands out is the way the initial weave stitching starts from the center. Art's is oval whereas all my vintage are round like your example.

 

[Brad Bowers]

The amusing thing is they both probably came from Winchester, TN. Hat Corporation of America had moved their straw hat production to Winchester by the time your C&K was made, and I think that's also where Art sources his Milans.

Brad

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Not any more Art makes his own Milan's by hand.

 

[Brad Bowers]

That's cool, I didn't realize that. Oh well, it could have been a interesting story.

Brad

 

[alanfgag]

Not any more Art makes his own Milan's by hand.

Can you say more about what this means?

 

[Art Fawcett]

Hi Alan and Gents,
I am getting the raw materials , ( 5 mm wheat straw braiding) from Henan Province in China and am sewing the bodies here using the machine I found last year in LA. The reason the start of Charlie's hat is oval is simple, he is an extreme long oval head so I am able to tailor the hat to the head that I am working with. I WAS getting my Milans from Winchester but then found the equipment for the real deal, not toyo or hemp, and now can honestly claim to be the second hatter in the US to make the real thing. yee haw!!

 

[alanfgag]

Fascinating... thank you Art.

ps... any pictures you are willing and able to share of the equipment and set-up would be wonderful to see.