The Cap Faction

[Adnamira]

I don't have a red cap in my collection, but I just ordered the Red Check Donegal Tweed City Sport from Earland Bros. I was thinking if I bought another winter cap it would be a Wigens (I think they are a better cap and I've worn the grey herringbone Wigens cap I have much more than my City Sport Caps), but the colours and the price (<$70) of these City Sports is irresistable, and it's something different. It will be interesting to see what the City Sport Large Peak Cap is like. The Wigens longshoreman cap has brought me back to ivy style caps, as I've discovered that if they have a bit of dimension and a good brim, they can look pretty good. They also have the advantage of not getting out of shape and sitting in a annoying way like some newsboy caps do sometimes.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Harris-T...909365063?pt=UK_Hats&var=&hash=item76c2402671

Oh, and the classic cap company also has a some silk (brand removed) City Sport caps in stock. They look good too, and priced well, but I am not sure if they are the small, medium or large sized newsboy style - it's hard to tell. The pinstripe cotton caps look like they may also be City Sport, but again, I can't tell if they are the extended peak (which are great) or the regular small sized newsboy (which I am not sure would suit me). I think unfortunately they might be the latter.

http://www.classic-caps.co.uk/acatalog/baker_boy.html

 

[Adnamira]

I'm going to a bit of rebel and put a few noses out of joint and say that I think that the Wigens Ivy Style caps are better caps than the Retro Sport caps

If you look at the Wigens from the top it's surprising to notice that it has a similar eight dart look to the sides and back... that's because it actually is - it's cut and pleated at the back the same way. The Wigens is a better made cap and it fits and is easier to wear because it has been blocked.

The Retro Sport has a more authentic, vintage style, which I guess is what the Fedora Lounge is about. The Wigens Ivy in my opinion is neither a modern or vintage style cap - it's just a good design. To me it does have a vintage element in the way that it has been made and blocked, which gives it the shape and structure that the Retro Sport lacks. It's not like the Retro Sport is a bespoke cap, handmade cap either, like Belas, HP or B!wear... so I think it is quite valid to compare them to City Sport and Wigens. In quality, I would rank the three brands in order of Wigens first, Retro Sport second, and City Sport last. In vintage style I would rank Retro Sport first and Wigens last. In fabrics, I would say that City Sport has the most fun variety, and they are also the best in attention to detail when it comes to matching patterns and making sure lines run true. In fit and structure, the Wigens has much more than the other two brands - in comparison the City Sport feels like a loop of fabric on your head and the lining feels a bit like a plastic bag, the Retro Sport feels sloppier and lifeless.

But really... at the end of the day, it's not about what is best, it is about what works for you. The Wigens works for me and the Retro Sport doesn't. But there will be people here, more than likely, who have features and the fashion sense that will make the Retro Sport work much better for them. I'm not sure it is completely wise to say to people, these are the best caps and they work for me, so they will work for you too... because we all have different head shapes, face shapes, and complexions and I doubt there is a single cap out there that will absolutely work for every single homo sapien on the planet. The Retro Sport looks great on Johnny and really suits him; I look like a Mr Potato head in mine.

And of course we have different tastes, and most of are getting into caps and fedoras as a way of not conforming to the typical, grungey, sloppy baseball cap wearing monoculture that surrounds us. I think in the course of this thread, several makers and brands of cap have come to attention. I've promoted Hat People caps, but drifted away from them because they don't have the dimension for the size of my head; I've promoted Zasu, because it impresses me that one guy on an old sowing machine can make so many caps, and they are huge, but yeah, they are handmade cap and have a handmade look; I've promoted City Sport, because they are funky, but they are probably a little bit akin to Kangol in being a market orientated cap in style and quality, albiet with a little more pannaz and style. Chances are I will go off Wigens as well and find something better, and the Retro Sport may grow on my once I find a way to wear it. But yeah, how many other big modern, factory brand caps are blocking their caps like Wigens?

I have to concede though, that the leather band that Johnny has installed in his Retro Sport does seem to give the cap a lot more structure. Maybe you need that for the authentic vintage look.

 

[HatsWV]

I'm interested in wigens caps myself but I wonder what is the major difference between the longshoreman style and their ivy style caps?

 

[Johnny J]

Adnamira, thanks for sharing your thoughts with all of us. I know that your honest opinion does help us in choosing what is right for each of us. I know that with what you said about several caps you have tried guides me towards or away from certain brands because of the style or structure. Well done!

 

[Adnamira]

I'm interested in wigens caps myself but I wonder what is the major difference between the longshoreman style and their ivy style caps?

I've only seen them make a handful of short brimmed ivy style caps. The brim on my Wigens robert would only be about half to a full inch longer than a regular ivy style cap, so not as long as the impression you get from the photos. The brims also look very square in a lot of photos, and they are kind of, but the brim is curved in such a way that it actually has a round look in 3D. The brim is angled down more than a city sport or retro sport, which stick up and out more, and are actually larger than the Wigens. Actually the brim is rather windscreen shaped on the wigens and I wonder if it is actually shaped and angled like that for walking into the wind with your head down.

Actually, the suprise for me with the Wigens Ivy is actually how much in real life it looks ivy style - worn with a scarf it looks rather academic I think. It'd be interesting to try Wigens other flat caps styles. This cap for example is more like the conventional flat cap, but it looks to have a bit more shape to it than the cheaper variety you get in department stores these days. Wigens ivy caps I guess are flat caps with muscle.

 

[Adnamira]

Adnamira, thanks for sharing your thoughts with all of us. I know that your honest opinion does help us in choosing what is right for each of us. I know that with what you said about several caps you have tried guides me towards or away from certain brands because of the style or structure. Well done!

I was being a bit obnoxious, Johnny. I have a penchant for being a bit of a devil's advocate. Retro Sport caps are good caps and good value. I'm just a bit worried that the Wigens tweed ivy caps are such a well made and designed cap but no one seems to be wearing them. I've thought about buying another earflap ivy from Wigens, but when I think about where and when I would wear it, it would be when and where I wear this one, so I don't really need another one at this stage. Kind of ironic that it is such a good cap and so suitable for what I am using it for that I don't need to have another one of them I'm just hoping that they stay in business and keep making them in Europe, because it is going to take me a few years to wear this one out, it is so sturdy and well made - I'd like to be able to get another one then.

 

[Adnamira]

The Wigens wouldn't be any good for personalising or modifying, either Johnny, like you've done with your Retro Sport. The minimalism and simplicity, and fabrics too, of the Retro Sport lends itself much more than that. A leather brim would be hard to add with those earflaps For me, the Retro Sport would work much better if I could somehow get more stiffness and structure to the sides, so that it sat up more. I like the worsted fabric a lot.

 

[seabass]

Last night I got around to installing a leather sweatband in my Retro Sport Cap. This is the first time I've tried it so what do you guys think? Fits alot better. I will show you a before and after to see if there is a difference in look.

Before with old sweat:

After with leather sweat:

Johnny J !
Excellent Work & looks Great, Funny today i was wearing my modified Retro-Sport (leather sweat)
& it stands at attention, Now i just need to modify the other 8 Retro-Sport to leather sweatband & they will get more head time
I have a linen from them which i enjoy much with the warmer weather....
Ill try to get some pics up wearing em soon
Keep up the good work, lookin sharp there !
che

 

[Adnamira]

These British eight panel caps on ebay look pretty good. ***** me that they only provide one photo at one angle. They remind me a bit in style to the bookster caps.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/James-De...749388233?pt=UK_Hats&var=&hash=item746dacf456

 

[seabass]

Hi Adnamira
yes the british cap looks nice & has a longer bill too for what i see in 1 pic... they need to post more pics indeed,

as for Bookster caps, I have 1 & it has the tinyest body of all my caps took 4 months to recieve & was overpriced all i can say is the fabric was very nice. but such a tiny body & bill. i have the Gloucester 8 panel,,,,, I have a Gloucester canary that sings all day named Chuey the bookster cap should fit him. LOL

 

[Adnamira]

Hi Adnamira
yes the british cap looks nice & has a longer bill too for what i see in 1 pic... they need to post more pics indeed,

as for Bookster caps, I have 1 & it has the tinyest body of all my caps took 4 months to recieve & was overpriced all i can say is the fabric was very nice. but such a tiny body & bill. i have the Gloucester 8 panel,,,,, I have a Gloucester canary that sings all day named Chuey the bookster cap should fit him. LOL

Haha! There's a fellow called James Dermot who is an antique expert on a British show called 'Bargain Hunt'. He's got a brilliant fabric, oversized flat cap he wears on the show that looks great. I was wondering if maybe it was a Bookster, but maybe not.

 

[seabass]

Bookster Stingy Brim
tiny lil cap

 

[Adnamira]

I guess little caps have their place, but they don't work for me. There was a well dressed Dude here when I first joined FL that said you can get Booksters in oversized versions.

 

[seabass]

Not a bookster.
6 panel Heavy cotton duck & a Harris Tweed for My grand son

Not a super full body But a wide-glide brim (slightly past ear to ear)

the 6 panel can be flipped back Casquette vintage biker style also, 2 caps in 1
Made by Al's Attire In San Francisco & called the Che cap
i brought in a old beat up cap that he made this from. A fast seller

 

[seabass]

che cap 6 panel in heavy brown herring bone side shot & rear profiles. i have 9 of these in various fabrics

 

[Adnamira]

You've got your look worked out, that's for sure. For some reason the look reminds me of the Funk Era and Seventies Police and Kung Fu movies, minus the sideburns and bell bottoms. Your grandson is the coolest looking dude we've seen on the Fedora Lounge, I reckon.

 

[seabass]

Custom 8 point french flat cap in same heavy cotton duck as the 6 panel che cap, & lil Moco in a old pre war ? baby cap

Proud Grandpa here

 

[seabass]

You've got your look worked out, that's for sure. For some reason the look reminds me of the Funk Era and Seventies Police and Kung Fu movies, minus the sideburns and bell bottoms. Your grandson is the coolest looking dude we've seen on the Fedora Lounge, I reckon.

LOL Adnamira
in the Funk Era i looked even more out of place. that was when Vintage attire was on the cheap & plentyful
I love my grand kids out of 5 i have 3 boys & they all sport caps & fedoras hard stuff too find
Thanks for the cool comments on the kids !
che

 

[Adnamira]

Haha, I think it might just be the brown leather jacket that was making me think that... and the macho bad cop pose After looking at the way Johnny was wearing his Retro Sport cap I had a bit of a play around with mine tonight. I pinched it at the back and low and behold the cap sat up a lot better. I think the cap is pretty close to the Metric 60 sizing, but I am 59.5 and I think these caps are probably better on the snug side, to give the tautness to add the structure. I am wondering if it would look too bad to pinch it in at the back with a thread... or maybe I can get someone sometime to put a leather band in it... then I could leave it in the sun on the dash and shrink it to fit

 

[seabass]

Adnamira, macho yea my wife is always refering at times (pinche-macho)
Maybe some steam will help & you need to pull it slightly to 1 side of your head, dont leave it on the dash it will become a Bookster then
the hat sould take a stretch if its too tight...man ill try to post up some pics of my modifed retro sport with leather sweat it does stand up & prounouce some of the 8 points.
but i also have a xtra long oval head shape if your round it might need some pushing & pulling,
Johnny J did a great job sewing that leather sweat,,,
i feel with the leather it conforms to you head faster & holds it's pose & dosent fly away in a strong wind, but i also cut my hair on the sides tight so the leather probably grips better in my case.