" The Great British Hat Makers "

Discussion in 'Hats' started by Chepstow, Sep 24, 2012.

  1. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    623
    Location:
    Germany
    Steve & Stefan, I (or rather all of us here) thank you for all the information!
    In my internet research I also saw the old location of HH
    - with the beavers on top of the gable: Great!
    The Tress logo is a bit of a mystery to everyone here,
    but we've heard a few interpretations.
    My thinking was that the paper label says Henry Heath,
    which is why I assumed it was made by them.
    Tress on the band reminded me of the hat store logos on the sweats
    as we know them from other hats.
    But why not the other way around!?

    I guess we'll never really find out... :rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2021
  2. steur

    steur

    Messages:
    13,537
    Location:
    Nederland
    T&W Lees of Stockport England. Camber style hat in brown (called French Brown on the label), with the brim at 6cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Still has the high quality finishing of the earlier T&W Lees hats. Size 56 and weighs 107 grams. Really like this style, which I have not seen from them before.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  3. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,215
    Location:
    Denmark
    Great find, Stefan. Particularly like the reddish brown colour and that wonderful T&W Lees liner.

     
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  4. Christopher Smith

    Christopher Smith New in Town

    Messages:
    34
    Hi all! I purchased a Herbert Johnson homburg from eBay. I also have a Herbert Johnson fedora which I believe I posted in this forum awhile back. The fedora has a mark on the lining stating that they are a Royal Warrant holder. The homburg I purchased, which I am attaching pictures of, has no such mark or mention of being Royal Warrant holder. I know Herbert Johnson didn't receive their Royal Warrant until 1901. Could this hat possibly be from before then? I know they started using 38 Bond Street address in 1895. So I'm just wondering, could this hat be from between 1895 and 1901? Is there a way to check?
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,215
    Location:
    Denmark
    That is a very nice Herbert Johnson Homburg, Christopher. Great find.
    It doesn't look like a Victorian Homburg to me though.
    The Royal warrant dies out with the Monarch. So after 1910, when Edward VII died, if the new monarch, George V, didn't grant HJ a new warrant, they wouldn't be able to use it. I'd place yours around the 1920s. It's still a super find.

     
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  6. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,215
    Location:
    Denmark
    P.S. Please post your HJ Homburg in the Homburg Nation thread.
     
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  7. steur

    steur

    Messages:
    13,537
    Location:
    Nederland
    Excellent find. Nothing to add to what Steve already pointed out.
     
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  8. steur

    steur

    Messages:
    13,537
    Location:
    Nederland
    A new one added to the fold. The Holborn hat. Lords hat in black, size 58 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. As it came in a rather fetching Stetson hat box, I thought it was American made at first, but it's probably English. Holborn being the legal centre of London the style fits. Liner and textured sweatband suggest an early hat, likely late thirties. Could be forties as well though.
    No label inside the hat, other than the price tag, which says 34,50. The size label is metric, which is unusual for an English made hat, so it's not completely certain that it is English made. The flags on the liner don't give anything away either, so a bit of a mystery.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    holborn_05.jpg holborn_11.jpg
     
  9. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,215
    Location:
    Denmark
    That is a great find, Stefan. I'm leaning toward it not being English, though. Apart from the metric sizing, the price tag, if it is a price tag, doesn't make sense in terme of English currency back in the 30s/40s.

    Still a very stylish Lords hat though.

     
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  10. steur

    steur

    Messages:
    13,537
    Location:
    Nederland
    Thanks, Steve. It has me a bit stumped to be honest. The price tag could have been added later or could have been blank if it was sold elsewhere. The hat came from a location in Groningen, but it is unclear where it was manufactured.
    The only other one I have found doesn't get us any further: it is listed on an auction site in Poland.
    STARY KAPELUSZ THE HOLBORN HAT LONDON 7617356901 - Allegro.jpg STARY KAPELUSZ THE HOLBORN HAT LONDON 7617356901 2.jpg
     

  11. Maybe Dave @DaveProc can research it. I’d bet he could come up with 10 generations of ancestry of the man who made it and tell you what he had for breakfast that day! :)
     
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  12. DaveProc

    DaveProc Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,032
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    Maybe.
     
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  13. PanosChris

    PanosChris Practically Family

    Messages:
    615
    Seems like a hot hat-hunting period in my local area.. Different hat styles and sizes... Here are two bowlers.

    First one, unknown maker. I am guessing English, due to the sizing. Unlined, in near mint condition. The crown patch maybe says something to some of you. 20210407_093248.jpg 20210407_093224.jpg 20210407_093146.jpg 20210407_093253.jpg 20210407_093305.jpg 20210407_093323.jpg 20210407_093156.jpg
    20210407_093410.jpg
    20210407_093447.jpg 20210407_093429.jpg
    I am guessing 30s. The best thing about it imo is that is full wool but still soft and flexible. It almost feels it wants to be creased and snapped.
     
  14. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,215
    Location:
    Denmark
    Nice find, Panos. The crown patch with the eagle, 13 stars and 13 stripes says USA to me.

     
  15. PanosChris

    PanosChris Practically Family

    Messages:
    615
    Next, J.Moores & sons, the "Electric" hat, size 55. Cushion pads and ventilation holes on the sweatband. "Fit for a king". Stamped date 27 May 1927. Also wider brim but deeper curl and more flange. 20210412_194418.jpg 20210412_194436.jpg 20210412_194534.jpg 20210412_192633.jpg 20210412_192905.jpg 20210412_192838.jpg 20210412_192734.jpg 20210412_190504.jpg 20210412_190513.jpg 20210412_190551.jpg
     
  16. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,215
    Location:
    Denmark
    That is truly wonderful, Panos.
    Damn, why isn't it a size larger. I want it anyway :)

     
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  17. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    623
    Location:
    Germany
    My very first feeling, Stefan, told me it was a German-made hat:
    sweat, label etc. are very similar to some hats I've seen at flea markets.
    The size tag would also fit this. In addition, the flags are in black-white-red:
    These were the colors of the official flag in the Kaiserreich and also at the beginning
    of the Nazi era (black-red-gold in between in the Weimar Republic and later BRD).
    https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flagge_Deutschlands#Norddeutscher_Bund_und_Deutsches_Reich

    Strange, however, is the combination with an "English" brand name
    - which was quite common after the war in the 50s, but before?
    So maybe this is a German production in/shortly after the war?
    But this is all just a gut feeling with me!

    However, Holborn is also a German family name...
    Maybe Steve knows more?
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2021
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  18. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,425
    Location:
    Central Texas
    A couple of great bowlers, Panos.

     
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  19. PanosChris

    PanosChris Practically Family

    Messages:
    615
    Some more local finds.
    Clark Homburg in navy blue. Size 58, imported for the Norwegian market. 20210410_092603.jpg 20210410_092628.jpg 20210410_092343.jpg 20210410_092354.jpg 20210410_092454.jpg 20210410_092405.jpg 20210410_092434.jpg 20210424_102939.jpg 20210410_093010.jpg 20210410_093002.jpg
     
  20. PanosChris

    PanosChris Practically Family

    Messages:
    615
    And another one. Wilson, camper style in greenish grey. Size 58, imported for the Norwegian market. 20210407_094430.jpg 20210407_094105.jpg 20210407_094039.jpg 20210407_094322.jpg 20210407_094246.jpg 20210407_094215.jpg 20210407_093943.jpg 20210407_094132.jpg 20210407_092434.jpg 20210407_092516.jpg
     

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