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" The Great British Hat Makers "

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,863
Location
Denmark
Two nice finds, Stefan. Velour wasn't one of the Manchester hat makers fortès unfortunately, as you rightly point out.

I'm always saddened when I see London after one of the Manchester companies names. I understand why, just wish they'd chose otherwise.

And its friend it came along with as a stowaway (I just bought this one and the Failsworth got sent along for some reason; I'm not complaining;)).
Moores velour in a grey/brown colour called "abbey". Size 59 with the overwelt brim at 5,2cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. First time I've seen a Moores velour hat. The English manufacturers did make their own and imported them from Germany and Autria. The seem to hevae been less proficient at it that those countries. Like the Failsworth, the hand of this one is nice enough, but again: not as nice as the Austrian ones. And again"some surface mothing on this one as well. Ribbon needs replacing; can't get the stains out.

View attachment 359430 View attachment 359431 View attachment 359432 View attachment 359433 View attachment 359434 View attachment 359435 View attachment 359436 View attachment 359437 View attachment 359438 View attachment 359439
 
Messages
15,458
Location
Nederland
Two nice finds, Stefan. Velour wasn't one of the Manchester hat makers fortès unfortunately, as you rightly point out.

I'm always saddened when I see London after one of the Manchester companies names. I understand why, just wish they'd chose otherwise.
Thanks, Steve. I'm thinking these are somewhat later productions of these companies and they likely would have produced better velour before the need to cut costs became a necessity for them. It would have been nice to see Stockport, Denton and Manchester get pride of place, but customer preferences dictated otherwise.
 

Julia Warter

New in Town
Messages
3
Location
Costa Mesa, CA
I am a hat designer based in Costa Mesa, CA. I currently manufacture my brims out of New York, but am always looking for new manufacturers. I'm curious - who are your favorite manufacturers?
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,863
Location
Denmark
Hi Julia

Welcome to the FL.

I think you should post your question in the "Ask a question, get an answer" thread. It would be more relevant there than in this thread.

I am a hat designer based in Costa Mesa, CA. I currently manufacture my brims out of New York, but am always looking for new manufacturers. I'm curious - who are your favorite manufacturers?
 

Daniele Tanto

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,734
Location
Verona - Italia
We are at the penultimate chapter of the series "Beautiful and impossible"
brumel_2-1-jpg.375474

This time the fault is mine and mine alone. On the wave of enthusiasm I bought two hats from a mute or rather uninformed seller.
brumel_4_a-1-jpg.375478

The discovery of the size put the writer in a bad mood and also Stefan who first peeked under the sweatband of the two Lord hats.
brumel_6-1-jpg.375479
Brummel's Imperial size 54 centimeters or 3 1/2 for the French and 6 3/4 in the USA.
brumel_3-1-jpg.375481

It is one of the most beautiful English hats in terms of felt and workmanship I have ever had in my hands. The surface has a velvety touch and the softness is excellent.
brumel_7-1-jpg.375483

The proportions of this Lord hat are as follows: brim curled at 6 cm. the ribbon is 4cm and the height of the crown at its minimum point is 11cm.
brumel_interno_totale-1-jpg.375482

It was bought in the Cession shop in Liège - Belgium a few years ago. Honestly, I wanted it to be my size, but it seems useless to say, like its brother.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,863
Location
Denmark
We are at the penultimate chapter of the series "Beautiful and impossible"
brumel_2-1-jpg.375474

This time the fault is mine and mine alone. On the wave of enthusiasm I bought two hats from a mute or rather uninformed seller.
brumel_4_a-1-jpg.375478

The discovery of the size put the writer in a bad mood and also Stefan who first peeked under the sweatband of the two Lord hats.
brumel_6-1-jpg.375479
Brummel's Imperial size 54 centimeters or 3 1/2 for the French and 6 3/4 in the USA.
brumel_3-1-jpg.375481

It is one of the most beautiful English hats in terms of felt and workmanship I have ever had in my hands. The surface has a velvety touch and the softness is excellent.
brumel_7-1-jpg.375483

The proportions of this Lord hat are as follows: brim curled at 6 cm. the ribbon is 4cm and the height of the crown at its minimum point is 11cm.
brumel_interno_totale-1-jpg.375482

It was bought in the Cession shop in Liège - Belgium a few years ago. Honestly, I wanted it to be my size, but it seems useless to say, like its brother.

Such a shame about the Brummel's, Daniele. I have a couple of their hats and they're nicely made. I don't believe they're British though. My understanding is they were a Belgian hat maker.
 
Last edited:

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
821
English makers are not famous for their velours and for a reason perhaps. Arguably most of their best ones are sourced from central Europe. As far as I can recall only a handful of English made velours shown here are noteworthy.
Wilson velour in charcoal grey.
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Not as good as pre-war Huckels, but these are on a different league altogether. Though it lacks some density and gloss, the open velour finish on this one is on par with the majority of European post-war velours that have passed through my hands.
 
Last edited:

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,863
Location
Denmark
English makers are not famous for their velours and for a reason perhaps. Arguably most of their best ones are sourced from central Europe. As far as I can recall only a handful of English made velours are noteworthy.
Wilson velour in charcoal grey. View attachment 376215 View attachment 376216 View attachment 376217 View attachment 376218 View attachment 376219 View attachment 376220 View attachment 376221 View attachment 376222 View attachment 376223View attachment 376224
Not as good as pre-war Huckels, but these are on a different league altogether. Though it lacks some density and gloss, the open velour finish on this one is on par with the majority of European post-war velours that have passed through my hands.

You're right, Panos. Velour wasn't really the English hat makers' forte. The Wilson looks to be an exception though. Great liner and label, too. Nice find.
 

Rmccamey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,993
Location
Central Texas
Too bad on the size but all of your recent hats have been real beauties.

We are at the penultimate chapter of the series "Beautiful and impossible"
brumel_2-1-jpg.375474

This time the fault is mine and mine alone. On the wave of enthusiasm I bought two hats from a mute or rather uninformed seller.
brumel_4_a-1-jpg.375478

The discovery of the size put the writer in a bad mood and also Stefan who first peeked under the sweatband of the two Lord hats.
brumel_6-1-jpg.375479
Brummel's Imperial size 54 centimeters or 3 1/2 for the French and 6 3/4 in the USA.
brumel_3-1-jpg.375481

It is one of the most beautiful English hats in terms of felt and workmanship I have ever had in my hands. The surface has a velvety touch and the softness is excellent.
brumel_7-1-jpg.375483

The proportions of this Lord hat are as follows: brim curled at 6 cm. the ribbon is 4cm and the height of the crown at its minimum point is 11cm.
brumel_interno_totale-1-jpg.375482

It was bought in the Cession shop in Liège - Belgium a few years ago. Honestly, I wanted it to be my size, but it seems useless to say, like its brother.
 
Messages
15,458
Location
Nederland
English makers are not famous for their velours and for a reason perhaps. Arguably most of their best ones are sourced from central Europe. As far as I can recall only a handful of English made velours shown here are noteworthy.
Wilson velour in charcoal grey. View attachment 376215 View attachment 376216 View attachment 376217 View attachment 376218 View attachment 376219 View attachment 376220 View attachment 376221 View attachment 376222 View attachment 376223View attachment 376224
Not as good as pre-war Huckels, but these are on a different league altogether. Though it lacks some density and gloss, the open velour finish on this one is on par with the majority of European post-war velours that have passed through my hands.
That is a fantastic find, Panos. There are some awesome hats among those early Wilsons and this certainly of them.
 

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
821
That is a fantastic find, Panos. There are some awesome hats among those early Wilsons and this certainly of them.
You're right, Panos. Velour wasn't really the English hat makers' forte. The Wilson looks to be an exception though. Great liner and label, too. Nice find.
Thank you my friends! Thankfully my local second hand market had many hidden gems this year ;)
 
Messages
15,458
Location
Nederland
By sheer coincidence some larger sized hats popped up here and there and this is one of them.
Kingson Imperial Quality fedora in flannel grey. Size 60 with the bound brim at a generous 7,5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. The felt is wonderful with a nice hand and very malleable.
Although the sweatband specifically says so, I've had a Kingson before and I just found out that one was actually made by Vanzina. This one does have a label and it's certainly an English one, likely by Moores (they used the "flannel grey" as a colour). I'm a bit stumped about this brand, but it is likely that it was actually owned by the retailer J. Pul of Amsterdam.
The "real" bow with the loose ends is something we sometimes see on English hats. I have a Battersby with the same bow treatment.
Anyway, here it is.

kingson imperial_01.jpg
kingson imperial_02.jpg
kingson imperial_03.jpg
kingson imperial_04.jpg
kingson imperial_06.jpg
kingson imperial_07.jpg
kingson imperial_08.jpg
kingson imperial_09.jpg
kingson imperial_10.jpg
label_resize.jpg
 
Messages
15,458
Location
Nederland
Another larger sized hat (sorry Brent; not large enough for you).
Tress Pathfinder fedora in brown heather felt. Size 59 or 60 (no label inside the hat). Overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at 10,5 cm at the center dent. Unlined and the crown patch is worn out, but a very nice and wearable early Tress.

tress pathfinder_01.jpg
tress pathfinder_02.jpg
tress pathfinder_03.jpg
tress pathfinder_04.jpg
tress pathfinder_06.jpg
tress pathfinder_07.jpg
tress pathfinder_08.jpg
tress pathfinder_09.jpg
tress pathfinder_10.jpg


Here's a picture of the retailer's shop in Ashton-under-Lyne. I could only find mention of Brownson in the first half of the last century, so likely the hat is pre-war as well.

browns1_resize.jpg
 

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