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Daniele Tanto

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Panos ask my contribution to this thread. Here we are:)
We start the presentation with two hats that look like they were made by the same manufacturer and both are more wool than fur
nuova-moda-marron-1-jpg.361232

No label under the sweatband helps us understand, only the liners speak a little.
nuova-moda-marron-interno-totale-jpg.361233

"Extra Fine" size is 57 centimeters
nuova-moda-marron-2-jpg.361234

The shape is that of the Italian hats of the 30s and 40s, the components are those of the period, but the fact that both are preformed makes me doubtful.
nuova-moda-marron-4-jpg.361235

This one has a soft heather felt with a ribbon made of woven felt, already seen before
nuova-moda-marron-5-jpg.361239

The workmanship is accurate even if the materials are quite average.
These are the measures. the brims measure 6.5cm and the crown, which has stitching on each side, is 10.5cm at its lowest point.



I have included in the description all the photographs of the details to show the style of the graphics and lettering that is that of before the Second World War
nuova-moda-marron-6-jpg.361240

Here is the first mystery of the lots without a know brand
 

Daniele Tanto

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Verona - Italia
Second of this raw
nuova-moda-nero-1-jpg.361342

I thought that this and the brown one are from the same manufacturer for the shape, components and some construction details. Maybe I was misled by the "La Moda" shop that sold them.
nuova-moda-nero-interno-totale-jpg.361343

"La Gran Marca - Zeus" size 57 centimeters.
nuova-moda-nero-2-jpg.361344

The wool felt is heavily sprinkled with shellac and keeps the black felt of medium consistency very taut
nuova-moda-nero-4-jpg.361345

This too is preformed with the same characteristics as the "Extra Fine".
nuova-moda-nero-3-jpg.361346

The measures are as follows; the brims are 6.5cm, the crown at the lowest point is 10.5cm and the ribbon is 2.5cm.
Very well finished, it still has the basting stitches having remained in the warehouse for at least seventy years.



This too has no label under the sweatband and therefore only the lining and details of the interior speaks for it.
nuova-moda-nero-5-jpg.361350

The characteristics are those of Italian hats made in the thirties and forties, but its shape made in the hat factory leaves me some doubts.
 

Daniele Tanto

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Here we have one of the "mysteries" of this findim which most of the hats are made of wool or a part of them
cervo-3-jpg.361474

The hat has a beautiful felt, "silky" like some French Thibets from the 1930s that I recently found
cervo-interno-jpg.361475
The indications on who could have produced it are scarce, if not the lining bears clearly visible two "Deers".

We can therefore infer that this is an unbranded and unlabeled "Cappellificio Cervo" product
cervo-1-jpg.361478
The hat has been preformed like yesterday's and, personal opinion, is younger than his cronies with the same shape.
cervo-2-jpg.361479

I summarize a hat dating back to the 1950s, these are the measurements: the raw brim is 6 cm and the crown at its lowest point is 9.5 cm and the ribbon is 2 cm high.
cervo-5-jpg.361480

Finished with good quality, it has its strong point in the black and silky felt
cervo-4-jpg.361481

This visible "mistery" hat is one of the examples of the trade war waged by the major Italian producers to take away space for small manufacturers, but the story is long and complex to tell.
Let's enjoy this beauty
 

Daniele Tanto

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This is a mixed felt where wool is presenta ta least at 50%
The surprises begin with a hat that has all the requisites for being old, except the brims which are incredibly short.
extra-2-jpg.361911

"Extra - Tirso" size 58 centimeters in a plum colored felt and made of wool and fur with a touch that I often found in Italian and French hats from before World War II.
extra-interno-totale-jpg.361913

Let's talk about the brims that I doubt could be that short in the 30's and 40's, I've seen at minimum 5cm in hats where they were always up.
extra-3-jpg.361912

It is extremely malleble and has a fine backbow and internal finish.

It has a brand "Qualità Prima Extra" I never see

The name of the maker or the type of hat is "Tirso" a small river in Sardinia or the sacred Thyrsus was a ritual stick attributed to the Greek god Dionysus and his followers, satyrs and maenads. Of various wood, but thicker than dogwood.

From the lettering and brand stamping it seems really an old hat
extra-4-jpg.361917

These are the measures: the brims are 4 cm., the ribbon, with backbow is 4.5 cm and the minimum height of the crown is 11 cm.
extra-5-jpg.361918

I tried to imagine the hat with a couple of cm. plus in the brims and it would have been different, if they were cut to make it palatable, the job was done carefully
extra-6-jpg.361919

This is one of the mysteries of this find and the pity is that it would also fit on my head...:rolleyes:
 

Daniele Tanto

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Location
Verona - Italia
This Italian hat is my favorite, perhaps because it is older than the writer:)
We have little news about this black hat from the thirties
velour-1-jpg.362000
Someone threw the liner in the garbage and no indication is present for the lack of a paper label
velour-interno-totale-jpg.362001

Velour, as it is called on the sweatband, size 58 centimeters
velour-2-jpg.362002

The shapes and finishes, see the sweatband with "inlays" are those of a hat made about a hundred years ago
velour-4-jpg.362003

Its peculiarity is the black felt, classified as velour which has a very low fur and an exceptional malleability
velour-3-jpg.362004

In the mixture of felt there is certainly a part of wool and probably silk because the consistency and luster are those of some women's hats of the period
velour-5-jpg.362005

As I mentioned in the presentation of this lot, some hats are mysteries, also because their dating is at least fifty years long. This too was sold in a tiny town of Pegognaga, as evidenced by the brand of the shop
velour-6-jpg.362006
These are its measurements: the brims are at 6.3 cm, the ribbon is at 5 cm. and the lowest point of the crown is at 11.5 centimeters.
This hat, as well as the one called "Extra - Tirso" are the adorable puzzles that are found every now and then and make collectors spend a few moments of happiness ;)
 

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
900
This is a mixed felt where wool is presenta ta least at 50%
The surprises begin with a hat that has all the requisites for being old, except the brims which are incredibly short.
extra-2-jpg.361911

"Extra - Tirso" size 58 centimeters in a plum colored felt and made of wool and fur with a touch that I often found in Italian and French hats from before World War II.
extra-interno-totale-jpg.361913

Let's talk about the brims that I doubt could be that short in the 30's and 40's, I've seen at minimum 5cm in hats where they were always up.
extra-3-jpg.361912

It is extremely malleble and has a fine backbow and internal finish.

It has a brand "Qualità Prima Extra" I never see

The name of the maker or the type of hat is "Tirso" a small river in Sardinia or the sacred Thyrsus was a ritual stick attributed to the Greek god Dionysus and his followers, satyrs and maenads. Of various wood, but thicker than dogwood.

From the lettering and brand stamping it seems really an old hat
extra-4-jpg.361917

These are the measures: the brims are 4 cm., the ribbon, with backbow is 4.5 cm and the minimum height of the crown is 11 cm.
extra-5-jpg.361918

I tried to imagine the hat with a couple of cm. plus in the brims and it would have been different, if they were cut to make it palatable, the job was done carefully
extra-6-jpg.361919

This is one of the mysteries of this find and the pity is that it would also fit on my head...:rolleyes:
This Italian hat is my favorite, perhaps because it is older than the writer:)
We have little news about this black hat from the thirties
velour-1-jpg.362000
Someone threw the liner in the garbage and no indication is present for the lack of a paper label
velour-interno-totale-jpg.362001

Velour, as it is called on the sweatband, size 58 centimeters
velour-2-jpg.362002

The shapes and finishes, see the sweatband with "inlays" are those of a hat made about a hundred years ago
velour-4-jpg.362003

Its peculiarity is the black felt, classified as velour which has a very low fur and an exceptional malleability
velour-3-jpg.362004

In the mixture of felt there is certainly a part of wool and probably silk because the consistency and luster are those of some women's hats of the period
velour-5-jpg.362005

As I mentioned in the presentation of this lot, some hats are mysteries, also because their dating is at least fifty years long. This too was sold in a tiny town of Pegognaga, as evidenced by the brand of the shop
velour-6-jpg.362006
These are its measurements: the brims are at 6.3 cm, the ribbon is at 5 cm. and the lowest point of the crown is at 11.5 centimeters.
This hat, as well as the one called "Extra - Tirso" are the adorable puzzles that are found every now and then and make collectors spend a few moments of happiness ;)
Great additions, Daniele! Many thanks! Great to see together all these wool and wool/fur mixtures in different finishes. Especially these last two are truly fantastic.
 

glider

A-List Customer
Messages
342
Does anyone know of a simple way to tell if a hat is fur or wool felt? I mean when there are no markings, and the hat feels good. Dobbs for instance has made their 5th Ave with wool and fur and I have a few that don't say anything. I have handled hats that really felt good that were wool felt and fur felt hats that were a little coarse so I obviously can't tell the difference by feel.
 

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
900
And second for today:
Black Homburg: Rival - Gerardo Riva & C.
One great example from Monza
- as Daniele has pointed out several times -
the center of the Italian wool felt hat industry!

36574418nu.jpg

36574421gg.jpg

36574422ud.jpg

36574423or.jpg

36574448az.jpg

36574450no.jpg

36574452wv.jpg

36574455ks.jpg

36574459yd.jpg
And again: Remember that one (on it's way to Panos)
1930's German Lords hat in blue-grey wool felt:
Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden - "Tell" mark; "Küßnacht" model

34918027im.jpg

34918028hz.jpg

34918031tb.jpg

34918035bb.jpg
Matt, fantastic woolies!!! Especially the blue upbrim ;)
 
Messages
16,271
Location
Nederland
No brand woolfelt lords hat in black. Better would be to call it an upbrim soft felt hat. French manufacture, judging by the size label (and the country where I got it from). I find these older woolfelt survivor hats hard to resist. Overwelt curled brim at 5cm and crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Failry light for a woolfelt at 116 grams. These twisted wind cords we find only on older hats.

ancien_1-jpg.392509
ancien_2-jpg.392510
ancien_3-jpg.392511
ancien_4-jpg.392512
ancien_5-jpg.392513
ancien_6-jpg.392514
ancien_7-jpg.392515
ancien_8-jpg.392516
ancien_9-jpg.392517
 

Mean Eyed Matt

Practically Family
Messages
950
Location
Germany
Panos has asked me to also copy and paste here the other Woolies that I had previously posted elsewhere and which are now in his hands. Here we are:

1. black "Esperazano" wool felt fedora from Esperaza, which is together
with the whole Aude Valley region the French centre of wool hat industry.
The condition is not the best, but it hints at the class of wool felt hat production in the region:
All components - inside and out - are of excellent quality and great workmanship!

41327411xb.jpg

41327409ot.jpg

41327405wm.jpg

41327400hc.jpg

41327399xe.jpg

41327397wx.jpg

41327396lj.jpg

41327391qq.jpg

41327394cq.jpg

41327393ly.jpg
 

Mean Eyed Matt

Practically Family
Messages
950
Location
Germany
2. Hall & Co. London expressly made for Sools Paris:
Wonderful, thick but soft and in addition heathered fur felt (according to sweat),
but I think Panos is right wanting me to repost it: Probably a mix with a good bit of wool.
The hat is made in England, but in my opinion - as shown - clearly made
for the French market (right down to the size labels).
With this one, the size annoys me the most, but with Panos it's in good hands!

41521848tg.jpg

41521846oz.jpg

41521844ui.jpg

41521843fy.jpg

41521842ac.jpg

41521841ly.jpg

41521839yr.jpg

41521840pp.jpg

41521838wa.jpg

41521837id.jpg

41521836fe.jpg
 

Mean Eyed Matt

Practically Family
Messages
950
Location
Germany
And 3.: black "Colonia" (= Köln City) made of a lovely wool felt with back bow.
This is an unknown (to me) brand we don't know anything about it - except:
The paper and size label is the same as on J.A.Seidl so probably the same (unknown) source,
which apparently made wonderful wool felt hats of really good, if not excellent, quality.
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

41236038rm.jpg

41236039am.jpg

41236040vp.jpg

41236037th.jpg

41236036wl.jpg

41236035cl.jpg

41236034zk.jpg

41236033nc.jpg

41236032rl.jpg
 
Messages
16,271
Location
Nederland
And 3.: black "Colonia" (= Köln City) made of a lovely wool felt with back bow.
This is an unknown (to me) brand we don't know anything about it - except:
The paper and size label is the same as on J.A.Seidl so probably the same (unknown) source,
which apparently made wonderful wool felt hats of really good, if not excellent, quality.
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

41236038rm.jpg

41236039am.jpg

41236040vp.jpg

41236037th.jpg

41236036wl.jpg

41236035cl.jpg

41236034zk.jpg

41236033nc.jpg

41236032rl.jpg
Well, it certainly doesn't hurt to see these again, Matt. Beautiful hats, all three of them.
 
Messages
16,271
Location
Nederland
Also one that has been posted before, but not in this woolfelt thread. Thibet bowler in black. No labels inside the hat, but a size 56 with the brim at 5cm. Made for Baronnier of Nancy, France. Thibet is a brand name made by Ecuyer&Thomas. The details of this hat are wonderful, like the super tight d'Orsay curl. The felt is woolfelt however, so not as smooth a finish one would like.

thibet_01-jpg.305890
thibet_02-jpg.305891
thibet_04-jpg.305892
thibet_05-jpg.305893
thibet_07-jpg.305894
thibet_08-jpg.305895
thibet_09-jpg.305896
thibet_10-jpg.305897
thibet_11-jpg.305898


Here's a pic of the shop it was sold from. Couldn't find any more history of the shop right away.
baronnier-jpg.305899
 

Mean Eyed Matt

Practically Family
Messages
950
Location
Germany
Panos has asked me to also copy and paste here the other Woolies that I had previously posted elsewhere and which are now in his hands. Here we are:

1. black "Esperazano" wool felt fedora from Esperaza, which is together
with the whole Aude Valley region the French centre of wool hat industry.
The condition is not the best, but it hints at the class of wool felt hat production in the region:
All components - inside and out - are of excellent quality and great workmanship!

41327411xb.jpg

41327409ot.jpg

41327405wm.jpg

41327400hc.jpg

41327399xe.jpg

41327397wx.jpg

41327396lj.jpg

41327391qq.jpg

41327394cq.jpg

41327393ly.jpg
Also one that has been posted before, but not in this woolfelt thread. Thibet bowler in black. No labels inside the hat, but a size 56 with the brim at 5cm. Made for Baronnier of Nancy, France. Thibet is a brand name made by Ecuyer&Thomas. The details of this hat are wonderful, like the super tight d'Orsay curl. The felt is woolfelt however, so not as smooth a finish one would like.

thibet_01-jpg.305890
thibet_02-jpg.305891
thibet_04-jpg.305892
thibet_05-jpg.305893
thibet_07-jpg.305894
thibet_08-jpg.305895
thibet_09-jpg.305896
thibet_10-jpg.305897
thibet_11-jpg.305898


Here's a pic of the shop it was sold from. Couldn't find any more history of the shop right away.
baronnier-jpg.305899

As an addition to my own post and to Stefans fantastic Tibet Bowler:
The whole Aude Valley region has been the centre of French wool hat production
- including Jean Bourrel Manufacture De Chapeaux in Quillan,
which was responsible for the "Thibet" brand.
https://musee-chapellerie.fr/en/a-little-history/
 

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