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What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Messages
17,466
@Monitor and @Carlos840,
I hear your point on shoulder width, and I think I even understand how this could be so based on upper arm construction allowing more room, but I am still not convinced. Every leather jacket that fits me comfortably has a minimum shoulder width of 20”. I have a couple denim jackets that are slightly under 20” and while they fit well I can feel the tightness in the shoulders.
I don’t think there is anything particularly unique about my physique but shoulder measurement is one that I always check carefully before buying.

There's nothing that would actually make the jacket feel tight in the shoulders - or rather, I believe that the jackets that you find tight, would feel this way regardless of the size. Except if you don't buy it like 3 sizes larger to compensate for this. I also think that's the reason why you're sometimes needlessly over-sizing your jackets. I know for a fact this is something I used to be guilty of, too.

Same as @Carlos840, for whatever reason, back in the days I had convinced myself that the shoulder width was the most important measurement to go by and to such an extent that I would completely ignore every other measurement if the shoulder width - measurement that doesn't even exist - sufficed. I wasn't even looking at jackets with a shoulder width under 20", which was of course ridiculous. My first Vanson was a sz. 46. Lol!

@Carlos840 explained everything very well, I'd just like to add that probably the reason why you might believe that the denim jackets you have feel tight around the shoulders is because of the position of the armhole, which on truckers is usually positioned more directly toward the sides of the jacket, rather than slightly forward. So in turn, you compensate by buying a larger jacket than you actually need.
This is something a lot of people do. Reason you see pretty much everyone in the street walking in a coat that's 2 sizes too large on them is because they believe it fits them correctly due to being comfortable, but in 90% of the cases, it's just the pattern and has nothing to do with shoulder width.

But yeah, nothing about the shoulder seam-to-seam width can affect the way the jacket feels on you - you either push the sleeves out with your shoulders (and pull them a bit up) or you don't. The sleeve material will bend around your shoulder and you're good. With over-sized shoulders, the seam will fall lower, again bending around your shoulder curve and you're also good. Except not because the sleeve opening (and seam) might push into your shoulder and make the jacket feel small.

Tl;dr - It's mostly all about the armhole position, not the actual space between shoulder seams.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,137
Location
London
I really appreciate the discussion and advice here everyone- and especially @Carlos840.

I’m hoping I will get a response from them soon and they will offer to make it right. It sounds like the best option would be for me to size down to a 36, keep the same sleeve and body lengths and maybe take an additional couple of inches off the bottom opening.

If you size down to a 36 the shoulders will most likely be 0.5" narrower, maybe ask for 0.5" extra in the sleeves to end up with more or less the sleeve length you have on the current one.
Depending on the difference in bottom hem diameter between sizes maybe do a "Tony special" and ask for a 36 tapering down to a 34 in the bottom hem.
I hope it works out, good luck.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,980
Location
California
I just experienced catastrophic zipper failure on my LW CHP.
199B4E5C-E047-4CF8-827E-2A6424D81292.jpeg

I was changing the battery on my Monte Carlo when I looked down and noticed that the insert pin had separated from the zipper box. I don’t know if I missed it when I went to zip the jacket up or if it came loose while I was working but the end result was that I could not move the zipper all the way down to release. I fussed with it delicately for about a minute and then I did the he-man, grabbed both sides of the jacket and pulled apart shearing the teeth on the pull side of the zipper as you can see. I knew that brute force was not the answer but I also know that this zipper has been a problem since the day I received the jacket and once it’s separated like that it’s fate was sealed as far as I’m concerned.
I think I’m going to take the jacket into Johnson Leathers and have them install a #10 riri that will be up for the task of handling this heavy horsehide. While I’m there I might talk to them about taking in the sides a little bit through the ribs to increase the taper of this jacket.
****py way to start the day but I am trying to make lemonade with these lemons and hopefully end up with a jacket that fits better than this one ever has.
 
Messages
17,983
I just experienced catastrophic zipper failure on my LW CHP.
View attachment 278472
I was changing the battery on my Monte Carlo when I looked down and noticed that the insert pin had separated from the zipper box. I don’t know if I missed it when I went to zip the jacket up or if it came loose while I was working but the end result was that I could not move the zipper all the way down to release. I fussed with it delicately for about a minute and then I did the he-man, grabbed both sides of the jacket and pulled apart shearing the teeth on the pull side of the zipper as you can see. I knew that brute force was not the answer but I also know that this zipper has been a problem since the day I received the jacket and once it’s separated like that it’s fate was sealed as far as I’m concerned.
I think I’m going to take the jacket into Johnson Leathers and have them install a #10 riri that will be up for the task of handling this heavy horsehide. While I’m there I might talk to them about taking in the sides a little bit through the ribs to increase the taper of this jacket.
****py way to start the day but I am trying to make lemonade with these lemons and hopefully end up with a jacket that fits better than this one ever has.
I won’t even zip my LW. Has a massive #10 Talon and it’s in perfect order but the few times I’ve tried I can tell it won’t last long. I was debating on a preemptive strike with Dena and have her throw in a YKK. Would like this tapered one the body too. At the same time...not sure I’ll keep it, the sleeves feel about 1/2” too short.
411EFB44-9C96-4231-8868-C9F4644AF81D.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Superfluous

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,995
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Missing in action
IMHO, shoulder width is a critically important measurement in terms of the fit of the jacket. If the shoulder is too large, there tends to be excessive material in the chest and/or under the arms, and this excessive material folds/creases. In order to obtain a smooth finish across the chest, the shoulders (and the chest) must be appropriately sized and not too big. Excessive shoulder width also creates a boxy and/or peaked shoulder, or sometimes a drooping shoulder. Therefore, in order to balance these factors, I have a very small window in terms of acceptable shoulder width and, based on experience, I do not go outside my established window because the fit is inevitably undesirable.

Of course, the foregoing is affected by one's particular body shape. I do not have a V-shaped torso. Rather, I am more barrel shaped. Perhaps V-shaped torsos are more amenable to greater variation in shoulder measurements????

The foregoing applies equally to shirts. I constantly pass on otherwise stellar shirts because the shoulder is too wide.
 

Psant25

One Too Many
Messages
1,622
I just experienced catastrophic zipper failure on my LW CHP.
View attachment 278472
I was changing the battery on my Monte Carlo when I looked down and noticed that the insert pin had separated from the zipper box. I don’t know if I missed it when I went to zip the jacket up or if it came loose while I was working but the end result was that I could not move the zipper all the way down to release. I fussed with it delicately for about a minute and then I did the he-man, grabbed both sides of the jacket and pulled apart shearing the teeth on the pull side of the zipper as you can see. I knew that brute force was not the answer but I also know that this zipper has been a problem since the day I received the jacket and once it’s separated like that it’s fate was sealed as far as I’m concerned.
I think I’m going to take the jacket into Johnson Leathers and have them install a #10 riri that will be up for the task of handling this heavy horsehide. While I’m there I might talk to them about taking in the sides a little bit through the ribs to increase the taper of this jacket.
****py way to start the day but I am trying to make lemonade with these lemons and hopefully end up with a jacket that fits better than this one ever has.
Oh man that is brutal. I hear ya I have about 2 seconds patience and I am tearing something apart or snapping off some tiny plastic piece of something never to be made right again haha. I agree have JL throw a 10 ykk and be done
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,980
Location
California
CE3B012F-D937-4B1A-9D33-EA666DE27648.jpeg

Just back from Johnson Leather where I dropped of the LW to be rebuilt with a new YKK #10 zipper. I asked Alan about tapering the fit as well but he recommended against it because it would limit my mobility in the jacket.
I had a great time chatting with him and I got to try the cross zip pictured in the photo above. It is made from their Horween overdye and it is truly a beautiful creation. The fit was almost perfect but a little tighter than I like through the rib cage. It was a size 44 and Alan and I agreed that a size 45 would probably be just the thing for me.
Alan and I spoke about classic cars, leather jackets, and the cast of characters here on the Lounge. Very nice way to spend a very nice Saturday.
 

Psant25

One Too Many
Messages
1,622
View attachment 278525
Just back from Johnson Leather where I dropped of the LW to be rebuilt with a new YKK #10 zipper. I asked Alan about tapering the fit as well but he recommended against it because it would limit my mobility in the jacket.
I had a great time chatting with him and I got to try the cross zip pictured in the photo above. It is made from their Horween overdye and it is truly a beautiful creation. The fit was almost perfect but a little tighter than I like through the rib cage. It was a size 44 and Alan and I agreed that a size 45 would probably be just the thing for me.
Alan and I spoke about classic cars, leather jackets, and the cast of characters here on the Lounge. Very nice way to spend a very nice Saturday.
So jealous. Do they always go brown thread on the overdye? Jacket looks great
 
Messages
10,926
View attachment 278525
Just back from Johnson Leather where I dropped of the LW to be rebuilt with a new YKK #10 zipper. I asked Alan about tapering the fit as well but he recommended against it because it would limit my mobility in the jacket.
I had a great time chatting with him and I got to try the cross zip pictured in the photo above. It is made from their Horween overdye and it is truly a beautiful creation. The fit was almost perfect but a little tighter than I like through the rib cage. It was a size 44 and Alan and I agreed that a size 45 would probably be just the thing for me.
Alan and I spoke about classic cars, leather jackets, and the cast of characters here on the Lounge. Very nice way to spend a very nice Saturday.

The 10 YKK will be perfect. I preemptively replaced the froggy zips on my J23 (2-way 10 YKK) and Trojan (10 YKK). Absolutely no worries now. I still have the Conmar on my CHP since it’s working okay. The crown on my Leathertogs is ******proof.

Is the jacket you tried on at JL for sale? Thanks.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,980
Location
California
So jealous. Do they always go brown thread on the overdye? Jacket looks great
I’m sure they would use any thread you asked them to but the two jackets I saw made from that leather both had brown thread. Looked very good in person, not making too much of a statement the way that some contrast stitching does Looked very good in person, not making too much of a statement the way that some contrast stitching does
 

roadking04

Practically Family
Messages
938
Location
The Rock 'n Roll Capital
Quick ride before I go flood-proof my home for the inevitable coastal flooding associated with the incoming storm. I park my bike in the living room lol. That’s my baby. Anyways, the wind is starting to pick up and the LW is like armor. A bird clipped my handlebars on the ride over. Lucky it didn’t make contact with the LW! Little *******.

Be safe my friend. Don't let anything happen to your Road King.
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,543
Great photos on this page! We are getting another 5 days of near record warmth here in Chicago. Jacket season has stalled. I’m OK with it though. Kind of a gift this time of year.

Funny timing. It was a high of 57 for us today which doesn't sound low, but we used to have years where we never had a daily high of under 60. For something this low to happen in early November is a big deal and I was thrilled with it.
 

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