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@Monitor and @Carlos840,
I hear your point on shoulder width, and I think I even understand how this could be so based on upper arm construction allowing more room, but I am still not convinced. Every leather jacket that fits me comfortably has a minimum shoulder width of 20”. I have a couple denim jackets that are slightly under 20” and while they fit well I can feel the tightness in the shoulders.
I don’t think there is anything particularly unique about my physique but shoulder measurement is one that I always check carefully before buying.
There's nothing that would actually make the jacket feel tight in the shoulders - or rather, I believe that the jackets that you find tight, would feel this way regardless of the size. Except if you don't buy it like 3 sizes larger to compensate for this. I also think that's the reason why you're sometimes needlessly over-sizing your jackets. I know for a fact this is something I used to be guilty of, too.
Same as @Carlos840, for whatever reason, back in the days I had convinced myself that the shoulder width was the most important measurement to go by and to such an extent that I would completely ignore every other measurement if the shoulder width - measurement that doesn't even exist - sufficed. I wasn't even looking at jackets with a shoulder width under 20", which was of course ridiculous. My first Vanson was a sz. 46. Lol!
@Carlos840 explained everything very well, I'd just like to add that probably the reason why you might believe that the denim jackets you have feel tight around the shoulders is because of the position of the armhole, which on truckers is usually positioned more directly toward the sides of the jacket, rather than slightly forward. So in turn, you compensate by buying a larger jacket than you actually need.
This is something a lot of people do. Reason you see pretty much everyone in the street walking in a coat that's 2 sizes too large on them is because they believe it fits them correctly due to being comfortable, but in 90% of the cases, it's just the pattern and has nothing to do with shoulder width.
But yeah, nothing about the shoulder seam-to-seam width can affect the way the jacket feels on you - you either push the sleeves out with your shoulders (and pull them a bit up) or you don't. The sleeve material will bend around your shoulder and you're good. With over-sized shoulders, the seam will fall lower, again bending around your shoulder curve and you're also good. Except not because the sleeve opening (and seam) might push into your shoulder and make the jacket feel small.
Tl;dr - It's mostly all about the armhole position, not the actual space between shoulder seams.



