What's with the shoulders?

[Jupiter]

I am desperately trying to find a sport coat that has unpadded shoulders, preferably in a Harris Tweed. I've been looking at a lot of period photos of men from the 1930s, and their jacket's shoulders often are as rounded as the guys' own shoulders. Today's jackets seem to go straight out from the neck, then drop straight down at practically a 90-degree angle. I am looking for something softer and MUCH less dramatic.

I've been to a dozen or more men's stores in the greater Cleveland area, and everything is padded, padded, padded. Good grief, a guy looks like a freaking Frankenstein in those things! Several salesmen actually sort of mocked me for wanting a soft shoulder. One said, "Why would you want to look like a potato?" :rage: But, I am a somewhat trim fellow, and I look ridiculous in a heavily padded jacket.

Orvis claims to make their sport jackets without stiff shoulder pads, and they have a great selection of tweeds. I can live with the price if the quality is high, and the shoulders actually ARE soft. Anyone have any experience with them? And if not Orvis, then WHAT?

Jupiter

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Another recruit to the anti padding group here on the FLounge!

Good luck. Shoulders are cut FAR too big on modern jackets and most men have no idea how terrible they look. Incidentally, they look so bad because they don't have ENOUGH padding. With more padding they'd look better, though still too big.

Anyway, good luck in your hunt. Vintage (not necessarily Golden Era. I have several 60s/70s Harris Tweed jackets with slim cut to natural shoulders) may be an option.

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

And if not Orvis, then WHAT?

Ralph Lauren Polo? Britches of Georgetown?

.

 

[Tomasso]

I am desperately trying to find a sport coat that has unpadded shoulders

Do you want zero padding or minimal padding?

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

With the usual big armholes and added massively padded shoulders it just looks horrible if the wearer doesn't have his arms straight down like a soldier standing at attention.

 

[herringbonekid]

Incidentally, they look so bad because they don't have ENOUGH padding. With more padding they'd look better, though still too big.

i don't follow your logic here Baron.

Jupiter, where do you live ? in London i see quite a lot of unpadded jackets about. they often look vaguely 1920s when you see them from the back. high fashion-influenced high street stores such as Topshop usually do them.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

i don't follow your logic here Baron.

The problem is that massive shoulders with no padding kind of droop over the edges of the shoulders and look truly terrible - think about yourself in a natural shoulder suit with shoulders that are at least 2 inches too wide. Massive shoulders with a decent amount of padding look marginally better (though still too big, and therefore bad) because there is no droop at the shoulders.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

The problem is that massive shoulders with no padding kind of droop over the edges of the shoulders and look truly terrible

ok, i know what you mean. but i don't want to think about it. :eusa_doh:

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Love the new avatar, by the way. Way more sinister in colour than in b/w. \

[hopes he is supposed to be sinister; otherwise somewhat of an insult]

bk

 

[Ace Fedora]

Add my name to the non-padded list. I don't have very wide shoulders, so I look like a poorly developed football player when I wear a jacket or coat with padded shoulders.

I've managed to find one or two suit jackets with no (or minimal) padding, but having a heck of a time trying to find a decent unpadded coat.

 

[carebear]

JC Penney has St. John's Bay twill sportcoats, mocha, forest, goldish/tan and navy blue. 100% cotton, semi-lined and unstructured available in tall sizes. Patch hand pockets, breast pocket, two inside pockets. Nice construction and can be altered easily.

They also have a similarly built sportcoat with a tweed-like pattern in a couple colors but those are poly/blend not wool or cotton.

 

[thetankw/ahat]

try some local thrift stores. thats where i've purchased the majority of my coats and no problems with the padding also they look great for being 4-7 dollar jackets. they are very nice near vintage coats and some are actually designer wear jackest that would retail for about 50-100 new i'd say. and no rips if you go to one that screens all their clothing such as goodwill salvation army and maybe even some of your local ones.