"You're Taking The Fall" - Bogart's Overcoat

[scotrace]

The hunt for the perfect overcoat goes on.

Many look bulky when worn. Modern versions seem thick, cheap.
This one is it, I think. From The Maltese Falcon. Soft, long, drapey, with movement. I'd want a breast pocket. Otherwise, this one is perfect. Where to find such a fantastic coat?

It reaches just below the knee. Note that the shoulders have no increased bulk, even though there's a double breasted suit worn under it. Why do manufacturers add shoulder pads to overcoats? It makes a man look like a left tackle.

It is also nicely fitted. Bogart was thin and not tall, but the coat, especially with the collar turned up, makes him look as tall and rangey as Jimmy Stewart.

 

[moustache]

Delightful!

Very nice look! I like the tighter fit as well.

JD

 

[Jay]

Where can we find 'em like that today?

 

[Daisy Buchanan]

Only thing I can think of is having one custom made to your exact specs. I know Burberry will/should still do it for you, but it might cost you an arm and a leg, and then you'd need even more alterations on the coat!

 

[Solid Citizen]

Specialty Mens Store/Ebay

I'm sure your area has some specialty mens store that could help!

Have you tried Ebay?

If all your suits/sportcoats are the same regarding shoulder sleeve length strongly suggest wearing one when trying on a topcoat @ at a mens store!

SC

 

[Baron Kurtz]

tailor tailor tailor.

Hard to find fabric heavy enough, though. Heavy enough to make the cloakroom chap grunt when he takes it from you.

bk

 

[thomasbonilsson]

ok- today I found a coat exactly like that one. Thick nice wool and from the late 40's. It costed nothing and I just stumbled over it. The only difference is that it is a slightly longer model.

But it is to big for me. the sholders a good but it needs to be taken in in the back. Does anyone know if it is possible to alter coats in sizes?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I found a coat ... It cost nothing ... But it is to big for me ... it needs to be taken in in the back.

This is how a cheap vintage find can become an expensive tailoring job. Whenever I buy vintage for myself, I have to take into account the potential cost of alteration/repair/cleaning. Sometimes a bargain turns out to be a money pit. Hope yours won't be


.

 

[herringbonekid]

Where can we find 'em like that today?

a posh gent's shop on Jermyn street, London.

 

[scotrace]

ok- today I found a coat exactly like that one. Thick nice wool and from the late 40's. It costed nothing and I just stumbled over it. The only difference is that it is a slightly longer model.

But it is to big for me. the sholders a good but it needs to be taken in in the back. Does anyone know if it is possible to alter coats in sizes?

No it isn't. You're screwed.


What size is it?

 

[Matt Deckard]

I was talking to Joe Hemrajani about an overcoat he had custom made using modern material... problem is that the materials today are just nowhere near as heavy as they used to be. The coat is cold outside. You need to buy a modern michilin man coat to get warmth and that's not what I want. i prefer the vintage wool coats because they are warm and the wool is heavy and dense. When the suits went the path of the thindn light wool the overcoat materials followed.. it's really sad.

Some companies are putting out good fitted coats though the armholes are too low to make them functional as they were back in the 40's... I don't know what happend to tailoring today though I intend to find out.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Some companies are putting out good fitted coats though the armholes are too low to make them functional ...

It's the dreaded domino effect ... suit jackets with low armholes led to dress shirts with low armholes (or vice-versa? Hmm). Shirts and suit jackets with low armholes led to overcoats with low armholes.


.

 

[Fletch]

This is how a cheap vintage find can become an expensive tailoring job. Whenever I buy vintage for myself, I have to take into account the potential cost of alteration/repair/cleaning. Sometimes a bargain turns out to be a money pit. Hope yours won't be

I know where you're coming from here, Marc. I found a not-too-shabby Harris Tweed overcoat recently, but it needed relining...then I noticed the sleeves were a bit short on me and the double cuffs were coming loose...I figured hey, bag the double cuffs, let the sleeves down and maybe use the cuff material to belt the back...before I knew it I was planning $200 in tailoring on an $85 coat. I didn't like it that much, so I didn't buy it!

 

[carebear]

I haven't had a custom anything made in this country, but my cashmere overcoat from Thailand (Hi-Fi in Pattaya was the Pakistani-owned tailor shop) is thick and heavy and warm but not rigid.

Is it just accessibility to fabrics domestically that's the problem? Because I love my coat.

And my suits for that matter, great fabric and double stitching. While I was getting fitted a guy and his buddy (who said he worked in fabrics in Massachusetts) were picking their stuff up and the buddy was very appreciatively pointing out the features.

 

[MikeBravo]

Aye, that's the question

No it isn't. You're screwed.


What size is it?

I suppose the point is, how much are you willing to compromise to look good? I mean sleeves a bit too long, socks a bit loose, hat not quirte the same colour as the suit ...

I think I know the answer of most board members - NEVER!!


Being 6'2" in the old scale, I find it very difficult to find vintage/retro that will fit me. Tailoring is pretty well beyond my expense reach at the moment. I have to be satisfied with having things a bit loose(!), but I think it's worth it.

 

[scotrace]

Spinach!


(but I don't blame you - congratulations on a great find)

 

[Steve]

This coat is the stuff dreams are made of.

Has anyone considered Abbyshot Clothiers? They make fine replicas of the coats worn by Keanu Reeves in the Matrix trilogy; and the material (Italian wool, IRRC,) looks like a lightweight version of what Bogie wore in The Maltese Falcon. They have the tailoring capacity, perhaps they could find the fabric to boot?

 

[Alan Eardley]

Bogey coat

This style of overcoat was made in the UK until recently by a famous maker for Marks and Spencer under the St Michael label. This label used to be like a time warp in some towns as individual store buyers could order whatever sold in their area, and in some towns (like mine) fashion was 20 or even 30 years out of date. Their quality was legendary, then M&S started losing business to 'fashion chains' and got designers and managers in to 'turn the business around'. Now they make a profit, their styles are the same as the stores next door and their quality is poor. That's progress!

They appear regularly in charity shops in the UK - I bought one in as new condition last week for 20GBP.

Alan

 

[Jovan]

This coat is the stuff dreams are made of.

Has anyone considered Abbyshot Clothiers? They make fine replicas of the coats worn by Keanu Reeves in the Matrix trilogy; and the material (Italian wool, IRRC,) looks like a lightweight version of what Bogie wore in The Maltese Falcon. They have the tailoring capacity, perhaps they could find the fabric to boot?

AbbyShot Clothiers are crap. They use really low grade fabrics (wool blends which are only half wool and half synthetic and feel really cheap) and you're basically paying $700 for a made-to-measure garment (not tailored, as they seem to get confused on in their description) and the fact that OMG, IT IS FROM TEH MATRIX. You can do far better than them. I warn you now because with all the pictures I've seen, all the swatches I've received, and the testimonials I've heard, I have not been impressed.