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Messages
11,912
Location
Southern California
the X's don't mean a whole lot when discussing modern Stetson hats ... they really started losing their meaning in probably the mid to late 50s ...
Regardless of era, wasn't the whole "X" thing just an arbitrary scale created internally by each hat company to indicate a hat with more Xs was allegedly higher quality than a hat with fewer Xs?

Hey all! Opinions on this color combo please. Felt is Winchester undyed beaver. Ribbon started white, dyed olive drab, then overdyed gunmetal grey...I didn't think it worked at first, but now it's growing on me...
Count me in the "like" group. I think it's a good color combination.
 

moontheloon

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,590
Location
NJ
Regardless of era, wasn't the whole "X" thing just an arbitrary scale created internally by each hat company to indicate a hat with more Xs was allegedly higher quality than a hat with fewer Xs?

there was actually meaning to it up to a certain point as to the density of the material and the quality of the felt ... sometimes indicating the amount of beaver or nutria in the blend I believe
 
Last edited:

Jhoff_1979

One of the Regulars
Messages
232
Location
Northern Illinois
I did find this on the Faq section of the Stetson site:

WHAT DO THE X’S MEAN?
ANSWER


The quality of the hat body used to make a hat is the main factor that determines the X's. In felt, it is determined by the percentage of furs used in making the hat body. We use beaver, mink, chinchilla and other animal fur to make bodies. The mixture of which furs we use determines the X's. In straw, the X's are also determined by the body used to make the hat. The tighter the weave and narrower the straw reed used to make the hat, the better X quality is marked in the hat.
 

moontheloon

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,590
Location
NJ
This is from the Stetson book

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Messages
11,912
Location
Southern California

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,670
Location
Northern California
But it still leaves me with the same question above. Which hat 6X or Royal Deluxe is of higher quality?
My guess would hinge on whether the 6X includes the word "beaver". If yes, that one. If no, I'd think the Royal Deluxe would be the better choice. I say this because I have seen terms like "5X fur felt" or "Genuine fur 5X" used by some makers to make a hat seem better than it is. Not sure if Stetson has done this in modern days, as I pay little attention to modern mass-market hats.
 
Messages
11,172
Location
Alabama
But it still leaves me with the same question above. Which hat 6X or Royal Deluxe is of higher quality?

Having had no particular experience with either in a modern Stetson, this is speculation on my part.

I've handled the modern 6X in the local western store and I found it to be cardboard stiff with a finish that is rough and uneven with the sweat and stitching details leaving much to be desired. The Royal Deluxe model appears to be of a bit higher standard, judging from pics the sweat seems to be of higher quality and perhaps the finish a bit better but I have never handled one. I have seen the RD model with the front of the brim snapped down, which I don't think one could do with a 6X w/o an overnight soak in the water trough.

A member here, @Monavillecowboy sells them and he is good about answering questions about his products and offers the most competitive prices I've seen.
 

Jhoff_1979

One of the Regulars
Messages
232
Location
Northern Illinois
Having had no particular experience with either in a modern Stetson, this is speculation on my part.

I've handled the modern 6X in the local western store and I found it to be cardboard stiff with a finish that is rough and uneven with the sweat and stitching details leaving much to be desired. The Royal Deluxe model appears to be of a bit higher standard, judging from pics the sweat seems to be of higher quality and perhaps the finish a bit better but I have never handled one. I have seen the RD model with the front of the brim snapped down, which I don't think one could do with a 6X w/o an overnight soak in the water trough.

A member here, @Monavillecowboy sells them and he is good about answering questions about his products and offers the most competitive prices I've seen.

Thank you. I have looked through his Ebay store before so I am familiar with it. He is saved in my account.
 
Messages
11,912
Location
Southern California
But it still leaves me with the same question above. Which hat 6X or Royal Deluxe is of higher quality?
According to some Internet research, Stetson's Royal DeLuxe fur felt is of a slightly higher quality than their 6X fur felt; softer, and has a better finish. Otherwise there doesn't appear to be much of a difference between the two. Whether or not those qualities justify a higher price (assuming there's a price difference) is up to the buyer.

That being said, I also have zero experience with Stetson hats, and would agree with the advice given above about contacting Monavillecowboy for his opinions and/or advice.
 
Messages
18,941
Location
Central California
Who can you recommend for reasonable priced hat work? If I want to ship a hat off for reblocking, cleaning, a new ribbon, or maybe a new sweat, who should I consider? I'm not looking for heirloom quality work nor for the best person in the business. I'm looking for a reasonably priced shop that does acceptable work on standard grade hats. My local hatter is overpriced and a one trick pony to boot. I like supporting local businesses, but I'm also expecting good value for my money. I'm willing to ship anywhere in the contiguous US.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,055
Location
San Francisco, CA
The Royal Deluxe grade was reintroduced to the modern Stetson line via Matt Deckard and the Premier Stratoliner.

I haven't seen a lot of modern ORs up close, and I'm not counting the ones I handled at the outlet. But I like my premier strat well enough.
 

moontheloon

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,590
Location
NJ
Who can you recommend for reasonable priced hat work? If I want to ship a hat off for reblocking, cleaning, a new ribbon, or maybe a new sweat, who should I consider? I'm not looking for heirloom quality work nor for the best person in the business. I'm looking for a reasonably priced shop that does acceptable work on standard grade hats. My local hatter is overpriced and a one trick pony to boot. I like supporting local businesses, but I'm also expecting good value for my money. I'm willing to ship anywhere in the contiguous US.

I trust Tim @Cane Rod Maker at Alley Kat

Great work
Perfect price
In contact the entire time with photos
Takes major pride in his work

He’s done work for me in an extremely timely fashion
 
Messages
11,912
Location
Southern California
I trust Tim @Cane Rod Maker at Alley Kat

Great work
Perfect price
In contact the entire time with photos
Takes major pride in his work

He’s done work for me in an extremely timely fashion
Good recommendation! I've never sent Tim any repair or refurbishment work, but the hat he made for me in 2014 was exactly what I wanted:

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Nothing fancy but, again, that's what I wanted--clean and simple. Note he uses hidden stitches to hold the ribbon and bow in place. And speaking of stitches...

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...here's an example of his work. The nice soft sweatband was sewn in by hand; neat and precise. I think he uses different liners now that he goes by the name Alley Kat Hat Co. (this hat was made before that), but Tim is so meticulous that I can only imagine his new liners are as good or better. As Anthony mentioned Tim takes pride in his work, but his motivation is to give his customers the best product(s) he can provide. There are a number of hatters here on The Lounge who can do the type of work you want, but I don't think you'll be disappointed with the quality of Tim's work.
 

theCOOP

New in Town
Messages
12
Ok. I'll give this a try. I need any information I can find regarding some hats; relative age, relative or perceived quality, what's it called? ...

1. Royal Stetson fedora (?)
2. Biltmore Cavalier fedora (?)
3. Bardsley Special (type?). I love this hat.
4. Smithbilt "Canadian Beaver". A family member suggested this is a woman's hat. ??

The only one I think fits properly is the Stetson the others are exactly or about 7 or 7-1/8.

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