Bespoke shoes: Edward Green Trunk Show

[Matt Deckard]

Stopped by the local Polo store in Beverly Hills to see the Edward Green shoe reps and had a nice long conversation with the cobbler that was brought along. He went in depth on what the most important measurements are for a shoe. Of course I haven't yet graduated to the ostentatious expense of an Edward Green custom shoe, though perhaps soon I'll go for the dream. I started out with the Rockports then moved to the Florsheims and realized that they felt like rocks under my feet. Yeah Florsheim makes a shiny shoe that can fit the foot, thoguh it is tough on the walker. Bought Allen Edmonds from then on and stuck with the brand and after a trunk show featuring Alden shoes discovered my true fit in footwear. The Trueflare last in 9 1/2ee. Comfortable enough to do better than a pair of Converse at Disneyland. I bought one pair and the Allen Edmond's started feeling neglected. I need another pair of the true flare lasted Wing tips... though someday I'll have to get a pair of the Edward Green's custom. When the shoe fits the foot is forgotten, and I like the idea of walking about and not worrying about foot discomfort.

The discourse with the cobbler went on for possibly more than an hour as he told me of the measurement from right to left on your forefoot, behind your toes, which has to be tight in order for the shoe to flex correctly. How the instep to the back of the heel measurement is the most important as it is what holds the shoe on the foot. We talked styles and different foot shapes of different countries. How Asians have high arches and short toes and Americans have very wide feet. How the English tend to have the narrower foot. It was a very learning experience and what i liked was that it was a passion for the man. He started out cutting leathers and now does most of the stitching on the shoes. They make 60 pair a day and from all repsects seem to be very good at what they do. I saw a man order ten pairs while I was at the shop.

When it's time, Edward Green will see me coming.

 

[Matt Deckard]

So anyone here have custom shoes?

 

[Tomasso]

Interesting, I thought that EG was out of the bespoke business as Tony Gaziano has struck out on his own. I heard that they now offer only RTW and MTO(made to order, where various types of leather and lasts can be special ordered).

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I don't have any custom shoes, but I really enjoy hearing about the men who make them.


All I know is that vintage '30s-'50s dress shoes look AND feel better to me than any modern (though admittedly non-custom) dress shoe I've ever had.

.

 

[Barry]

So anyone here have custom shoes?

There's going to be an EG trunk shoe in my neighborhood in two months. I'll go check it out.

Because of a fairly substantial shoe size difference which I have mentioned a few times here, I have a few choices:

Orthopaedic Shoes

Buy two pair

Nordstroms (they'll split for a size and a half difference for free, I've found this rarely works on dress shoes in colors other than black. There can be subtle differences)

Pay $100-150 extra to Alden or Allen-Edmonds and I can get whatever I want.

Today I ordered three pairs of Aldens. Two are shell cordovan. The other is a casual shoe. I have to wait ten months. [huh]

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Today I ordered three pairs of Aldens ... I have to wait ten months.

Dude, that's a long time to go barefoot.

.

 

[scotrace]

Anyone have a link to some pictures of how custom (or fine) shoes are made?

 

[MB5]

http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/craft/craft.htm

If you get Fine Living, The Genuine Article did a show on bespoke leather goods and there is a good section about John Lobb shoes and the process of making them. It will be airing again 07 October at 3am eastern.
http://www.fineliving.com/fine/genuine_article/episode/0,1663,FINE_1416_99,00.html

 

[herringbonekid]

go into John Lobb or Fosters and Son (jermyn street) and you will die. firstly you will die because there are glass cabinets full of the most exquisite shoes you've ever seen. you will die a second time when you hear how much a custom made pair of shoes will cost: they start at £1500 ($2800). Foster's even have vintage lasts in a cabinet with the names of old customers written on, such as Fred Astaire.

so no, i don't own any custom made shoes either.

 

[herringbonekid]

i mean look at this shoe by John Lobb.....

you cannot get a more exquisitely made shoe anywhere.
and this shoe isn't even trying to be authentically 30s looking!
it just is.

 

[BigSleep]

I'm waiting on a pair of custom shoes from Indy M.

I'm having the two-tone shoes from "The Two Jakes" Made to order.

Can not wait. Should have them in a couple weeks.

My first pair of custom shoes.

Would like to get a pair of custom cowboy boots made. I have a pair of boots from when I was about 2 yrs old. Would love to have a pair made to match them in my grown-up-big-people size.

 

[GateXC]

A good friend of mine is the US agent for Edward Green. He recently got in the samples for this season so I went over and checked them out - in the vicinity of 50 different types of shoes - all completely glorious. I'm going to get a pair but picking that one pair is going to be tough....soo many great choices...and then I'm going to treat them like they were made of glass

But in regards to bespoke, Tomasso is correct in that Green's doesn't do it. Their custom is on par with a made-to-measure suit - pick the leather and the style, etc.

Interestingly, he also mentioned that Edward Green actually used to make the shoes for John Lobb at their factory.

Also, in regards to production, Green used to turn out 35 pairs of shoes a day up until a couple months ago, but have recently stepped it up so they turn out a whopping 55 a day. And it takes 6 weeks to make a single pair.

 

[MudInYerEye]

My father, a San Francisco attorney, has one or two pairs of custom shoes made every year by an English shoemaker who takes orders and measurements from a hotel room. His suits are made by an England-trained Indian tailor who visits his customers' offices for measurements and fittings.

 

[RaasAlHayya]

Where may a lady go for a pair of bespoke shoes?

--Leslie

 

[Tomasso]

Where may a lady go for a pair of bespoke shoes?

--Leslie

John Lobb, for one. There are a few French and Italian makers who offer ladies bespoke(in addition to mens) but they're certainly in the minority. It seems to be a gentleman's game[huh]

 

[Tomasso]

i mean look at this shoe by John Lobb.....

you cannot get a more exquisitely made shoe anywhere.
and this shoe isn't even trying to be authentically 30s looking!
it just is.

While I love JL Paris, there are more than a dozen makers of their quality and sensibility.

 

[herringbonekid]

hmm, if you say so, but there's QUITE a difference between the look of those two shoes if you ask me. i'll stick with the Lobbs (the store i visited was London not Paris).

 

[Tomasso]

the store i visited was London not Paris.

There are actually two Lobb companies. The owners of Lobb sold out to Hermes in the 1970's but they retained the London store.


Here's an interesting eBay auction featuring an eighty year old Lobb boots that were designed to be fitted as ice skates.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

HBK, Do the Lobb spectators feature buckskin (or another type of leather with similar texture) or do they use white shiny leather? Since you've been in the store, i hope ye know ... i'd like to know.

cheers,
bk

 

[herringbonekid]

There are actually two Lobb companies. The owners of Lobb sold out to Hermes in the 1970's but they retained the London store.

i didn't know that. i've only been to the London store. both Lobb and Foster and son do ready to wear shoes, but they're far inferior to the bespoke ones ( as you might guess ). even the leather on the bespoke looks different. drool worthy.