Five Bucos

[Blackadder]

I've thought about this and I agree.

The HH J24 has beautiful leather but, even though it looks OK on me, it really is too big for the style.

I can't wear the j71 over a sweater because the sleeves are too narrow for that plus the body wears quite short given it doesn't have much front drop.

The J82 does have wider sleeves but the body is short, similar to the J71.

The J24L I can comfortably wear over a sweater which is crazy given the jacket's measurements (which suggest a tshirt only fit at best). The added body length (3") makes it easier to combine with a modern wardrobe.

These Buco patterns are spot on for me as they have a generous chest and upper sleeve with lots of taper towards to waist.





The J24L has 3" more back length than my J82 and J71.

The collar (Size large) perfectly fits the J82 as well.

View attachment 592999

View attachment 592998

+1

Crazy right? I can't think of any other jacket that I can comfortably wear in size 42, 44 or 46.

My Allstate by Buco J-71 in size 44 arrived today. My J-82 in size 46 is too big. The size 44 fits but not as perfect as my size 42 J-24L.
As to leather and design, Buco is all over the place. J-24L and J-71 in HH and J-82 and J-100 in SH.
My J-24L has the best leather while the 60s J-100 in steerhide has the worst. The J-71 is second worst with very thin HH. The J-82 though being in steerhide like the J-100 is second best.
My J-71 (pic posted in another thread) is different from yours that it has metal buckle, and 2 bars on each epaulet (though all 4 are missing now but am gonna get some replacements on Taobao).
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ng-and-how-many-potential-ones.89562/page-779

 

[58panheadfan]

... As to leather and design, Buco is all over the place. J-24L and J-71 in HH and J-82 and J-100 in SH.
My J-24L has the best leather while the 60s J-100 in steerhide has the worst. The J-71 is second worst with very thin HH. The J-82 though being in steerhide like the J-100 is second best...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ng-and-how-many-potential-ones.89562/page-779

Very nice collection. The leather on all the Bucos (J22 and J65) and other jackets from that era I owned was always so-so. It is important not to forget that these jackets were mass-produced in the years they were produced and so was the quality and workmanship. That's why I was never really interested in these jackets, that's of course a personal opinion. There are much nicer qualities to buy from today's producers. Of course, and that in turn speaks for the originals from earlier times, many jackets have a beautiful patina caused by the former wearers and if you are a collector they hold more or less their value.

 

[Marc mndt]

My Allstate by Buco J-71 in size 44 arrived today.

We need more pics

As to leather and design, Buco is all over the place.

Like said they used two different types of steerhide on my J24L, brown core (left) and black core (right).

The brown core leather shows much more wear with cracks in the topcoat.

The black core leather is in much better condition, wear (if any) shows gray. It feels much more solid.

 

[Marc mndt]

There are much nicer qualities to buy from today's producers. Of course, and that in turn speaks for the originals from earlier times, many jackets have a beautiful patina caused by the former wearers.

I'm on the opposite site as I have zero interest in repro's from RMC or what have you. For one I think the originals look better (more authentic) but originals are also more precious to me. Anyone with money can get a RMC repro. And if for some reason you ruin the jacket or it gets lost you can simply order a new one.

 

[jeo]

Ve


Very nice collection. The leather on all the Bucos (J22 and J65) and other jackets from that era I owned was always so-so. It is important not to forget that these jackets were mass-produced in the years they were produced and so was the quality and workmanship. That's why I was never really interested in these jackets, that's of course a personal opinion. There are much nicer qualities to buy from today's producers. Of course, and that in turn speaks for the originals from earlier times, many jackets have a beautiful patina caused by the former wearers and if you are a collector they hold more or less their value.

Very interesting you say that.

I own 13 vintage Bucos (two being All States) and with the exception of a few panels on my 5th tag J-24-H, they all had super high quality horsehide. Perhaps not the absolute best, but really as nice as anything from that era.

Some of mine definitely feel lighter/thinner than others but that’s probably because a combination of how they wore in and have been stored as well as being grainy so they feel more pliable or thinner compared to smooth which would feel a bit less pliable and would feel thicker.

Not to say there wasn’t variation, there definitely was, but I wouldn’t call the variation significant. Out of all my Bucos, only one is noticeably heavier than the rest.

Steerhide wasn’t as nice as the horse, but when comparing to other steerhide of the era, they stack up. It’s just that they had a thin top coat that wears off quickly so that makes it seem likes it’s less quality.

 

[Blackadder]

I'm on the opposite site as I have zero interest in repro's from RMC or what have you. For one I think the originals look better (more authentic) but originals are also more precious to me. Anyone with money can get a RMC repro. And if for some reason you ruin the jacket or it gets lost you can simply order a new one.

Yes. Opposite side. I only started buying vintage because the repros no longer fit. I put on quite a few pounds and found out that the vintage jackets from 50s or before fit my current frame. Take the A-2 for example, I used to fit perfectly in the Japanese brands size 36 but now has to be a size 40 which would be too long. Even a size 38 Eastman or LW etc will be too long for me but an original size 40 or 42 would fit quite nicely.

 

[Marc mndt]

Steerhide wasn’t as nice as the horse, but when comparing to other steerhide of the era, they stack up. It’s just that they had a thin top coat that wears off quickly so that makes it seem likes it’s less quality.

I guess this one is the exception to the rule. This steerhide is actually nicer than some of my vintage horsehide jackets. It's heavy, thick and grainy with great color depth. Looks amazing, feels absolutely bomb proof.

1954 or 1955 Buco J-81

 

[Marc mndt]

This late 50s made in Southfield Buco J100's steerhide isn't all that nice. It's thin with lots of scars and blemishes. Some panels are better than others though.

 

[Marc mndt]

Here's something you don't see every day. Not the fact that it's a Buco J-24, those are plentiful as they were mass produced. I'm referring to he condition, which is amazing. If it still had tickets I'd call it new old stock.

I've never handled a vintage jacket in this condition before. Of course I've handled jackets that are in great condition, near mint even. But with those you could tell that they were actually worn, gently, maybe a handful of times. This Buco looks like it was tried on only.

The leather is supple and hardly shows any signs of wear. You can tell it has never been conditioned, it's in the exact same state as when it left the factory. All I did was whipe it down with a damp cloth to remove some dust and a few storage marks.

When trying it on you can tell the leather hasn't formed to anyone's body yet. Sleeves are straight without any deep creases and the shoulders are still somewhat 2D (except for some small hanger imprints which I'm sure will even out with wear). The back gussets are flat and don't bulge out like they normally do on most Buco's.

It's definitely museum quality this one. I'm not going to frame it though. I'm going to wear it, because that's what jackets are made for .

 

[Peacoat]

@Marc mndt This one I would frame and get another one to wear. Wearable Bucos are plentiful. Museum pieces aren't. This one is a museum piece.

 

[Marc mndt]

@Marc mndt This one I would frame and get another one to wear. Wearable Bucos are plentiful. Museum pieces aren't. This one is a museum piece.

I had to think about this for a bit. I have bought jackets that I couldn't wear before. Very cool to look at but too small for me to wear. I could only 'enjoy' them for a couple of weeks but after the initial excitement was gone they became a burden. I don't like having stuff around that I don't use.

I'm going to wear and enjoy this one .