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Looking for a top hat maker.

maboot38

New in Town
Messages
2
Location
Boston, MA
I would like to purchase a quality top hat and am thinking the way to go would be to have one made to my specifications. I know there aren't too many who still make them. I know several good hatters who make Fedoras, but none of them do a top hat.

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for someone who can make a fine quality formal wear top hat.

Yes, I did try searching for top hat on this forum, but I haven't found a thread that provided a decent recommendation, so I'm asking it here.
 

Rathdown

Practically Family
Messages
572
Location
Virginia
While I can unreservedly recommend Bates, I can also unreservedly tell you that with top hats you really need to visit your hatter so that the height of the crown, the width of the brim, and the diameter of the crown compliment the shape of your head as well as your physique.
 

maboot38

New in Town
Messages
2
Location
Boston, MA
Thanks all. I've got a few to look at here that should give me a good idea. One of my main concerns on buying one online as opposed to having one made was that I don't really know whether or not a hat would look right on me simply from an ebay auction. I just want to make sure it's the right hat for my head. I hadn't even considered Akubra....although I don't know why, since I do enjoy my Fed IV.

I'll check out these recommendations. Thanks so much. When I finally find one, I'll be sure to give you all a "tip of the Master's hat".
 

newturnofphrase

One of the Regulars
Messages
251
Location
Canada
It depends on what you're looking for. The hatters mentioned can probably do it relatively inexpensively, but neither Akubra, Optimo, nor Pauls Hat Works make what I would consider a true top hat. They specialize in fine fedoras, and apply the same principles to top hats as they would to fedoras, which results in a nice hat but not a classic topper.

In terms of customization, Patey hatters is your best bet. I've talked to them, and they can make a topper to whatever specifications you please, in any historical style. However you will pay a considerable amount to get a hat (800+GBP), and it will be shiny fur melusine, not silk plush. Still, very high quality and durable.

Lock co is making new silk hats from old stock plush, but they are prohibitively expensive (4000+ gbp). Instead, if you want a new, true silk hat for a comparatively reasonable price (the final word in toppers), these guys manufacture them: http://www.silktophats.eu/. You can get one for just under 1000gbp. However, you can't get them customized as readily as at patey.

Otherwise, the best for new hats is a Christys or Bates melusine or taller top hat (200ish gbp) (they have the same supplier). Locks is the same supplier for their fur hats, but pricier.
 
Messages
17,271
Location
Maryland
Great post! From what I read Lock Co. will only make very large sizes (7 3/4 & 7 5/8 for 4500 Pounds!) with the vintage silk plush. Are the silktophats people using vintage silk plush?
 

newturnofphrase

One of the Regulars
Messages
251
Location
Canada
New silk plush, they claim. Thus far nobody on this forum has manned up enough to buy a new hat from silktophat, though the maker insists it is true new silk plush. It could very well be, essentially all he'd have to do is get a contract with a silk weaver to make some very long pile velvet and presto, silk plush.
 

besdor

Vendor/Sponsor
Messages
1,727
Location
up north
I think making the material used to create a true silk top hat is a lot more difficult than people realize. Al though I cant imagine spending 4000 pounds on a hat either!!
 
Messages
17,271
Location
Maryland
New silk plush, they claim. Thus far nobody on this forum has manned up enough to buy a new hat from silktophat, though the maker insists it is true new silk plush. It could very well be, essentially all he'd have to do is get a contract with a silk weaver to make some very long pile velvet and presto, silk plush.

If that is the case it would be interesting to see how it stacks up to vintage silk plush. As Besdor (Steven) mentioned creating vintage quality silk plush is a difficult process (assuming there are still people around that have the knowledge).
 

newturnofphrase

One of the Regulars
Messages
251
Location
Canada
I'm not sure the mystique surrounding the manufacture of silk plush is entirely justified. As a simple matter of economics, I think it never received widespread manufacture because of its specialist niche, fragility and expense of materials, and because the process of making it is labor intensive. It would not be profitable if there were multiple large firms competing for a niche business given the relatively small market (even in the times when people wore top hats, silk hats were an expensive luxury product). There's really not much else you can do with the stuff other than make stiff hats, given its fragility. So it makes sense that only a few french weavers made the world's supply without any competitors, as nobody had any economic incentive to invest in the necessary R&D.
 
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Messages
17,271
Location
Maryland
I am seem to remember it was also made in Germany. I believe the area in France where it was made was very close to the German border.

I couldn't find anything on the sites where it discusses the source of the silk plush. I assume Mark Spoorenberg is the source for Ton Meeuwis Silktophats. This is Mark Spoorenberg's website but the product page doesn't have any photo examples or where and how the hats are being produced.

http://silktophat.jouwweb.nl/

What is interesting is this posted article (from 1997) from the Silktophat website states that there is no longer any source for silk Top hats.

http://www.silktophats.eu/recollections.html

Hopefully someone that owns one of these Top hats will eventually post here or someone on here will purchase one.
 
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Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
I can also unreservedly tell you that with top hats you really need to visit your hatter so that the height of the crown, the width of the brim, and the diameter of the crown compliment the shape of your head as well as your physique.
Good advise for a first time buyer of any style hat.
 
Messages
17,271
Location
Maryland
The problem is finding a place in the US that has a proper Top hat to try on. Also they should be fairly standardized regarding crown height and brim width (assuming early 20th Century black Silk Top Hat type). Similar to this.

6173631100_0571b31be0_b.jpg
 
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Not-Bogart13

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,501
Location
NE Pennsylvania
One of my main concerns on buying one online as opposed to having one made was that I don't really know whether or not a hat would look right on me simply from an ebay auction. I just want to make sure it's the right hat for my head.

This concern kept me away from toppers for a long time, especially since I wanted a taller, victorian style. If you have a chance to get to a good renaissance faire before the season is over (and you like that kind of thing), you might find a wool felt one you could try on. Steampunk clothing is a popular costume choice there nowadays. That's the only place I've ever had the chance to try on a top hat. Of course, after not buying anything else all day at the faire, I caved to the temptation of a new hat and went back for it.
 

Auld Edwardian

A-List Customer
Messages
336
Location
SW VA Blue Ridge Mountains
I own several Lock & Co. hats from St. James in London, and have always been very pleased. Having been around since 1758 they know how to do things right. They are not at all inexpensive, however you get what you pay for both in service and quality. One of my hats is 27 years old and still going strong. Some words of advice on a stiff type of hat, do get a hat box to keep it in whilst not wearing it, and a good hat brush to help keep it clean, and store it in a cool dry location. If you do that it should last you almost indefinitely.
 

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