Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Peacoat]

Better you than me, Ian. These days I don't handle the cold like I did back when I was a youngster doing the clubs in the Village and falling for the girls next door at NYU. Those were good times.

 

[EmergencyIan]

Better you than me, Ian. These days I don't handle the cold like I did back when I was a youngster doing the clubs in the Village and falling for the girls next door at NYU. Those were good times.

I can imagine so!

- Ian

 

[triple-d]

Well, I just saw the "Upload a File" in the bottom right corner of the screen. I think I can upload the photos directly from my hard drive. Let's see if this works.

Good to see you still around Peacoat....lol.......your peacoat knowledge is wonderful !!!!

 

[Salem]

Hey guys,
I've noticed when I use a sticky lint roller, a lot of the blue wool comes off with the lint and it seems to me that this will wear down the wool if done repeatedly overtime.
Just wonder what you guys think is the best way for removing lint off your peacoat?
Thanks.

 

[Peacoat]

I use a fabric lint brush, the type that only picks up lint in one direction. The sticky roller is probably easier on the fabric than what I use, but yes, anything that picks up the blue fabric will take some of the shell with it. In 10 or 15 years of daily brushing, it might be noticeable.

@triple-d: Thank you.

 

[Salem]

Hi Peacoat,
Thanks for all your help and guidance so far.
I've been reading some other forums on the peacoat and there seems to be some peeps who complain about the circumference of the arms/ sleeves - that they can be too big. Of the three peacoats that I have, two have large sleeves but I felt it was just part of the design for a vintage peacoat so it has not really bothered me. It's just par for the course. I don't plan on having mine altered but I was wondering if you ever did or do you feel the same way?
Cheers.

 

[Peacoat]

They are a bit larger than I would like. A slimmer version would look better, IMO.

 

[Salem]

I agree that a slimmer version would look better but 1) To do so would alter the original vintage design and 2) Alteration do not always work out as hoped in my experience.
I'm willing to live with mine as they are but did you ever alter any of yours?

 

[Peacoat]

No, because of your reasons 1) and 2). Never even considered having them altered.

 

[Dr H]

I bought a Ralph Lauren pre-War, 10-button version of the peacoat from an FL member a couple of years ago for a very good price. It doesn’t have the absolutely obsessive attention to detail of the Freewheelers or the Real McCoys versions, but at less than a 10th of the cost, I’m happy to live with the minor deviations. I’ve absolutely lived in it for the last couple of months in an around Bristol. Extremely warm, phenomally practical, very stylish. On the wettest day’s when it’s been squally, I have been swapping this for my Excalibur deck jacket (a Spiewak patterned on the N-1 using very similar materials for the civilian market in the 1940s or 1950s). Topped off with a watch cap, both work really well.

 

[Salem]

Hey Peacoat,
Are the collars on the WWII 10 button coats too large to wear around slipped up like the eight button versions?
Thanks.

 

[Peacoat]

No, the collars on all of the peacoats, going back to the beginning of time, are made to be worn in the up position (flipped) when needed. The WWII coats have large collars for that very purpose.

 

[Dr H]

No, the collars on all of the peacoats, going back to the beginning of time, are made to be worn in the up position (flipped) when needed. The WWII coats have large collars for that very purpose.

I echo this. Definitely not too large to wear up or down. Currently wearing my 10-button jacket today and it’s very practical.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Hey Peacoat,
Are the collars on the WWII 10 button coats too large to wear around slipped up like the eight button versions?
Thanks.

Most collars on post war dark blue Kersey coats are approx. 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 - 3 inches high (wide). My WWII coat is 4 inches and also has the throat/chin strap under the collar. My 2 black Melton coats are 2 1/2 and 2 3/4. The WWII coats are very warm when the throat latch is buttoned.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's the mil spec document for peacoats, dated 1988. Go to the site in the link below and click on the orange "download file" button to download the pdf. I've done this and had no issues. Peacoat, you will find this document useful.

http://everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-O/MIL-O-2414H_33708/

 

[Peacoat]

Good find, Doc. One thing I am interested in is the color specified by the DOD for these current issue peacoats. Sterlingwear says they are of the darkest blue available, but I have had a hard time seeing any blue I them. Yesterday I was at a buddy's house. A number of years ago I had given him a current issue peacoat. I compared the shell with a known black object, and maybe I perhaps saw a bit of blue in the fabric. Difficult to tell. The lighting wasn't the best, so I'm not sure. I would like to know how the color is speced. If you have seen it, please let me know the page number. If not, I will keep searching.

 

[Bushwalker]

The spec is on page 4, 3.3.1 Basic Material.;

“The basic material shall be 22 ounce wool melton conforming to type II, class 4 of MIL-C-16290 shade blue 3346.”

 

[Doctor Damage]

Good find, Doc. One thing I am interested in is the color specified by the DOD for these current issue peacoats. Sterlingwear says they are of the darkest blue available, but I have had a hard time seeing any blue I them. Yesterday I was at a buddy's house. A number of years ago I had given him a current issue peacoat. I compared the shell with a known black object, and maybe I perhaps saw a bit of blue in the fabric. Difficult to tell. The lighting wasn't the best, so I'm not sure. I would like to know how the color is speced. If you have seen it, please let me know the page number. If not, I will keep searching.

I think the "blue" is b.s. and it's actually black, ha ha. And black comes is different shades believe it or not. Also that spec document I linked above is from 1988 and I imagine they've changed it since, but I haven't tried to find a newer spec (on the other hand, sometimes these things don't change for ages).

Here's the spec document for the cloth:
http://everyspec.com/COMML_ITEM_DESC/A-A-55000_A-A-55999/A-A-55198_50107

Using that site you can look up the documents for each of the components, if you're particularly keen.

 

[Peacoat]

The spec is on page 4, 3.3.1 Basic Material.;

“The basic material shall be 22 ounce wool melton conforming to type II, class 4 of MIL-C-16290 shade blue 3346.”

Yes, it definitely says ". . . shade blue." So Sterlingwear is right. But I'm with Doc Damage: It looks black to me. But I think in a good light, compared to a known black object there would be a little blue showing. Thanks for finding that. I had read that page but just missed it.

 

[Doctor Damage]

^ Note 3.3.2 that the fleece lining is to be dyed black and lines only the body. The sleeves are lined with a satin material, also dyed black.