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Five Star Leather Jackets

Messages
17,106
Location
Chicago
Wooooow!! I mean WOW!!! Some fit pics please!!! Is that the red russet goat?! Looks a shade darker than mine. My God he absolutely nailed it. His best work yet, without question.
 

red devil

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Messages
3,814
Location
London
I'm looking at these pics with my mouth open. Can you believe this? Damn this looks great. How is the fit?

Edit: even the leather looks good. But what do you think of the moustache collar? It doesn't look bad but it's not like the original collar.

I asked him to emulate this collar for my build

k3aOKUx.jpg


Didn't turn out exactly as is, but that was a difficult request :)

Woah! That looks amazing! I’m even more eager in waiting for my fivestar which should be finished this week after seeing this awesomeness. Shawn and his team are killing it!

How is the fit?

Uploading them :)
 

red devil

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3,814
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London
Fit looks great from the front! But that weird bulge in the middle of the back, maybe you need to change something with your next order? Do you have any idea on what’s causing it?

I think it is due to the way the shoulders are rotated, as @Marc mndt mentionned in the other thread and as per the drawing from @navetsea (hope you're ok with me posting it again here)

jacket-side-jpg.25478


Full explanations here

I am still going through the jacket to see what would need to be adjusted and what can be improved. Quite the learning experience!
 
Messages
17,106
Location
Chicago
I would taper the sleeves a bit at the cuff. And hourglass the body slightly. Other than that I think it’s perfect.
Chest: 22.5”
Waist: 19.5
Hem 21”
Sleeve cuff:5”
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,798
With a classic halfbelt most of the taper is created with the side panels. The 5* smoke jacket doesn't have side panels (unlike the original) so the taper should be created with the back and font panels. The original's back panel is hour glass shaped.
East-West-leather-jacket-M-vintage-Smoke-70s-_57.jpg


The 5* looks like a rectangular.
3cuQPLD.jpg
 

red devil

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3,814
Location
London
To me the sleeves look like stove pipes, it looks like they have 0 curvature.

Agreed, especially from this side.

I would taper the sleeves a bit at the cuff. And hourglass the body slightly. Other than that I think it’s perfect.
Chest: 22.5”
Waist: 19.5
Hem 21”
Sleeve cuff:5”

If you're really up to get this one, let's discuss all the adjustements we can have, to make a better ver 2.0. I will put up as many details as possible.
 

red devil

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Messages
3,814
Location
London
With a classic halfbelt most of the taper is created with the side panels. The 5* smoke jacket doesn't have side panels (unlike the original) so the taper should be created with the back and font panels. The original's back panel is hour glass shaped.
View attachment 289689

The 5* looks like a rectangular.
View attachment 289690


Thanks, I missed that one, agreed. Visible here as well

72mdXa2.jpg


Edit: You can also see the shape of the sleeves that @Carlos840 mentionned on that pic
 

Berto

One of the Regulars
Messages
261
Hi Red Devil, first of all congrats for your bravery ordering this jacket.

The outcome is notable. The back needs an improvement and the solution proposed by Marc likely works.

This jacket in deerskin should be fantastic.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
With a classic halfbelt most of the taper is created with the side panels. The 5* smoke jacket doesn't have side panels (unlike the original) so the taper should be created with the back and font panels. The original's back panel is hour glass shaped.
View attachment 289689

The 5* looks like a rectangular.
View attachment 289690

The 5 star version looks like a 2D version of a leather jacket.
You can see nothing is designed to fit a human body, it's just a 2D assembly of leather pieces.
The sleeves, the shoulders, the body, nothing has any curve or shows any sign of being designed for a human to fit inside.
 

red devil

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3,814
Location
London
Hi Red Devil, first of all congrats for your bravery ordering this jacket.

The outcome is notable. The back needs an improvement and the solution proposed by Marc likely works.

This jacket in deerskin should be fantastic.

You're giving me too much credit, I just finally went through with a jacket I have been wanting for a while :)

The 5 star version looks like a 2D version of a leather jacket.
You can see nothing is designed to fit a human body, it's just a 2D assembly of leather pieces.
The sleeves, the shoulders, the body, nothing has any curve or shows any sign of being designed for a human to fit inside.

Very good description, I think it is more visible, because I didn't go for a very tight fit.
 

MrProper

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Messages
3,841
Location
Europe
as already described, this comes from the missing waistline. Since very few have a figure like a barrel, the cut has to take into account the curve of the back. I have the same effect on my shirts / suit jackets before i take them to the tailor (ok, not quite as hard). The sleeves should be tapered. But in terms of design and workmanship, the jacket seems well done.
 

RILO

One of the Regulars
Messages
117
Location
Cleveland Ohio
Hey guys not sure if this has been brought up before. But can we set a range on cost for this 5* jackets give or take $$
If money is not to be spoken I understand.
Thanks.
 

red devil

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Messages
3,814
Location
London
as already described, this comes from the missing waistline. Since very few have a figure like a barrel, the cut has to take into account the curve of the back. I have the same effect on my shirts / suit jackets before i take them to the tailor (ok, not quite as hard). The sleeves should be tapered. But in terms of design and workmanship, the jacket seems well done.

How would I ask for the taper to be fixed for another jacket? He had good accuracy with the measurements provided, so I don't think it is something you can do with better numbers.

In terms of workmanship it is pretty competent, especially considering it was the first time the machinist was doing something like this. I need to take some more close ups to show some details

Edit: typo
 

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