How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[Jasonissm]

I used Buyee for my proxy, which sort of hides the seller username, but opening up the original listing I see it was The Rising. Truth be told, I didn't even question the listing with a 99.6% feedback rating (+682/3-). The Yahoo Auction rating is similar at 99.4%, and the store is licensed with full clarity. That doesn't throw up any red flags, but maybe that's naivety on my part.

As for the jacket itself, it arrived new with tags. All measurements check out within 1cm of published size tables, so considering this came with one wash I would expect that to be well within tolerance. I tried to compare details to several other examples listed on store web sites, Grailed, and Reddit and I can't find any discrepancies. Even the rivets are branded SDA. I guess one could make the case that it's easier to copy and mass produce hardware, so maybe that isn't the best indicator. That being said, I kind of find it hard to believe that it would be worth making a knockoff Jacquard weave Type II. Maybe if it was a more mainstream model, but not this sashiko version.

For what it's worth I have two other items from SDA, their Rain Kasuri Type I and the matching pants. The labels look and feel identical, and the location is the same in both jackets. I will concede that this would probably be easier to reproduce and incorporate on a fake item, so maybe it's not a valid data point.

If there's any detailed photographs you would like I'd be happy to provide if it may help you decide. I'll be the first one to admit that I'm not as knowledgeable as many people here.

Thanks for confirming, I had the same thoughts, it seemed fishy to me they had so much but all of the brands and clothes they have are all pretty niche and not likely to have fakes made. They had some Barbour coats I was interested in but I was a little more skeptical because those seemed like something more likely to have fakes made.

 

[Jasonissm]

SDA is a niche brand. Their resale value on JP sites isn’t that great. Fake stuff targets popular brands like Lacoste, Polo, etc. for high-volume sales. I’m willing to bet that your jacket is not fake.

Those who doubt niche brands as fake are usually too paranoid. Economics don’t support their theory.

There definitely seem to be fakes, I saw one store that clearly sold fake Kapital, Issey Miyake, Visvim stuff (backed up by reviews) as well as in the same store selling more niche brands like Toys McCoy, Real McCoys and Studio D'Artisan so I guess you can understand why I'd be skeptical of such stores.

Yahoo!オークション - PartsBankオークさんの評価一覧

auctions.yahoo.co.jp

Here is an example of one such store, although it is possible they sell a mix of counterfeit and legitimate products...

 

[TartuWolf]

I'm still planning to do a mini review of the Pherrow's SJ88 I previously posted. But basically I liked the quality a lot, which lead me to research other models.

I found a very interesting one, second hand but relatively unworn. This one is a now discontinued model, purchased in 2023, reference GX72.

It's a dark brown aviator style with a D pocket and stand collar. It should be arriving soon.

View attachment 716638

I remember seeing this one in my size and considering it for a second, but then I saw the cafe racer / mandarin collar and the back style and went NOPE. The shoulders were also listed very narrow for my size, but at least the length was nice and cropped, the sleeves had very decent length.
I found the listing and remembered that I also didn't like the way the teacore seems to be coming off (chipping off):

I'm really looking forward to your reviews for both of these jackets!

 

[zebedee]

Olive cowhide Thedi Half Belt on the way - probably by month’s end. It’s been a pretty smooth process, overall.

 

[TartuWolf]

Olive cowhide Thedi Half Belt on the way - probably by month’s end. It’s been a pretty smooth process, overall.

Ooooh looking forward to that one!

 

[zebedee]

Ooooh looking forward to that one!

Yeah, it should be awesome, unless it’s the most expensive mistake I’ve ever made

 

[red devil]

Yeah, it should be awesome, unless it’s the most expensive mistake I’ve ever made

Thedi jackets can't be a mistake, and Olive is very wearable... I have a car coat in Olive that I use regularly

That's going to be an amazing jacket!

 

[BarryMcCockiner_PhD]

Olive cowhide Thedi Half Belt on the way - probably by month’s end. It’s been a pretty smooth process, overall.

Oooh

Yeah, it should be awesome, unless it’s the most expensive mistake I’ve ever made

Oooh

 

[zebedee]

Oooh


Oooh

View attachment 716697

I am happy now.

 

[jchance]

Is that listing still active?
We’re around the same size and I’d like to take a better look at it if it’s still available.

There are several of that cafe racer D pocket on JP sites, all size 38 JP. I think the last link is brown.

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/auction/h1071592103

https://buyee.jp/mercari/item/veSqv5S7UZofbrFPdjak8L

https://buyee.jp/mercari/item/m65257125253

https://buyee.jp/mercari/item/2LrPuV5WtrAiWotekN92qi

 

[TartuWolf]

There are several of that cafe racer D pocket on JP sites, all size 38 JP. I think the last link is brown.

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/auction/h1071592103

https://buyee.jp/mercari/item/veSqv5S7UZofbrFPdjak8L

https://buyee.jp/mercari/item/m65257125253

https://buyee.jp/mercari/item/2LrPuV5WtrAiWotekN92qi

The first one seems to be a pretty good deal considering the price / condition ratio. Especially since FromJapan is running a -15% discount on Yahoo Auction items. So you'd be getting this one for ~385eur or ~450usd.
The main thing that would worry me is the 40.5-41cm shoulder width - that's a no-no for me personally.
The measurements consistency between all those size 38 sizes is also sketchy:

Shoulder width 42
Width 50
Length 59
Sleeve length 64

Length 56 (from under the collar)
Width 49
Shoulder width 40.5
Sleeve length 63

Shoulder width 41
Body width 51
Length 59
Sleeve length 63

・Shoulder width: 41 cm
・Body width: 49 cm (measured under the armpits)
・Length: 55 cm
・Sleeve length: 62.5 cm

 

[jchance]

Thanks, I’ve been curious lately to try this style before considering a regular cross zip, I just can’t seem to find the ideal one for me yet.

My main issue with them is I like how most look zipped but I rarely zip, or need to zip, and I rarely like one unzipped enough to get it.

Honestly, I think this style would look good unzipped if the red area (shown below) is removed. It looks too “extra” and out of place. A little modification with a leather specialist could work.

Re the shoulder measurement @TartuWolf, it’s typical for JP shoulder to be smaller. Their body frame isn’t like a scaled down version of an American or European body frame. There’s a reason why Americans and Europeans like the Flat Head’s wide shoulder patterns.

 

[TartuWolf]

Honestly, I think this style would look good unzipped if the red area (shown below) is removed. It looks too “extra” and out of place. A little modification with a leather specialist could work.

Re the shoulder measurement @TartuWolf, it’s typical for JP shoulder to be smaller. Their body frame isn’t like a scaled down version of an American or European body frame. There’s a reason why Americans and Europeans like the Flat Head’s wide shoulder patterns.

Yeah the JP cuts are problematic and that's why I'm rather avoiding most JP jackets. But, similar to Flat Head, the Y2 I have for sale has very nice 43-44cm shoulders for size 36. Overall it's a very western-friendly cut, I only wish it had more taper and was a bit shorter

 

[TartuWolf]

I think it's part of their pattern style for Pherrows, the smaller shoulders are fine as long as the arms have the length to make up for the shoulders.

The SJ88 I recieved in size 42 has 45cm shoulders, 57cm chest, 65cm arms measured along the curve, It fits really great on me.

The measurements for my incoming GX72 are more questionable, it looks like it has 44cm shouldsrs and 55cm chest (which is going to be a very tight fit on me).

For me it's not only about the shoulders effecting where the cuffs end up landing but also about freedom in the upper body, especially pulling my shoulders back if we are talking about models with shoulders gussets (as that solves the pushing forward problem).
Man I really hope your GX72 ends up working out, can't wait to read your reviews!

 

[TartuWolf]

Yeah I caught that, seems to be 2 different patterns, or maybe just some are boc and some include collar, I also saw some others with a diamond quilted lining.

I’m still considering the 1st one and I also have broad shoulders with slim waist, but researching the fit it says the sleeves are long and the armholes are big to compensate for the narrow shoulders, apparently part of the cropped body pattern.

I even saw a fit pit of a 1.69 mts model wearing a 36 and it didn’t look bad at all, seems there’s only like 1 cm difference between 36 & 38.

I’ve never used that type of coupon before, do you know if it’ll still work even if the auction ends after the coupon expires and there’s no buy it now option?

I saw some in 36 have sold a lot cheaper and in good condition, I like the idea of a tight fit on this one because it’ll force the lapels to spread apart when unzipped, but damn 40 s2s is scary and would likely feel more like a vest with sleeves if it were to fit.

I haven't tried it yet either, but I understand that it should work even if it ends after the campaign code is no longer valid because you actually use the code when you're bidding. I'll likely try it tomorrow myself on another item.

 

[jchance]

1950s Al Crowes on the way, from a pawn shop in North Carolina

Label would have looked like this, had it survived:

 

[AeroFan_07]

1950s Al Crowes on the way, from a pawn shop in North Carolina

View attachment 717726 View attachment 717727

Label would have looked like this, had it survived:
View attachment 717728

Definitely a well-grained, amazing patina jacket!

 

[IrishStu]

The pioneer wear arrived today but the dreaded middle aged spread makes it a bit too small in the waist. It's a pity as the leather is lovely and soft and the condition of the jacket is very good. Will probably put this in the classifieds later.

 

[Bawheid]

The pioneer wear arrived today but the dreaded middle aged spread makes it a bit too small in the waist. It's a pity as the leather is lovely and soft and the condition of the jacket is very good. Will probably put this in the classifieds later.

For sure I have jackets already with EXACTLY the same problem haha...
BUT I am working on that...

 

[ton312]

I think I went 2 for 2. Grainiac Gandalf the Wizard half belt and a Walter Dyer car coat. Thankfully the top button on the WD was in the pocket so I can reattach!