Sewing Lessons & FAQ

Drappa · Feb 11, 2011

Ah okay, thank you. I will take some pictures tomorrow, as it's really late here now, but thanks for your help

I googled the stay earlier and read about some that are attached on the inside to prevent the waist from stretching out or a zipper to be stressed, but couldn't see how that applies to a wrap or apron dress.

Drappa · Feb 11, 2011

Found a picture of someone who made it on Flickr:
http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/littleblackcar/5111434185

http://sewretro.blogspot.com/2009/08/mccalls-2440-1961-polly-esther.html?m=1

Lady Day · Feb 11, 2011

Drappa said:
Ah okay, thank you. I will take some pictures tomorrow, as it's really late here now, but thanks for your help
I googled the stay earlier and read about some that are attached on the inside to prevent the waist from stretching out or a zipper to be stressed, but couldn't see how that applies to a wrap or apron dress.

Sure, I often use a tape or something the length of the stay and baste it to the fabric to keep it from moving, but I find a lot of times you dont need to do that as much as I guess you did back then...? I mainly use them for measuring.

Good luck on the dress!

LD

Drappa · Feb 11, 2011

Ok, so I hope this is clear and large enough:

Upside down, but this is where the gathers go, but not sure how close or far I am meant to do them?

There are two lines saying pleat here and bring pleat here, and I don't understand what pleats they are, as I thought the gathers are making up the pleating?

I feel a bit silly about this, but I haven't made very many vintage patterns and usually ones with instructions and without pleats.

Lady Day · Feb 11, 2011

Okay, it looks like you have pleats and gathers. The 'pleat here' line is where you crease the fabric and bring over to the 'bring pleat here' line. That is where those two lines meet. At the gathering section, you just run a gather the length of the stay, or if the instructions say, the gather plus the pleat for the length of the stay, Id imagine.

LD

Drappa · Feb 11, 2011

Thanks again Lady Day. The problem is that the instructions are missing, and that the distance between the pleat here and bring pleat here is rather large (in the last photo from the right hand edge of the pocket marking to the long line on the right of it.
I guess the gathers confuse me because it doesn't indicate to how many inches I shorten the section by putting gathers in, ie. gather it to half that length, a third, two thirds? But maybe that's why I have a muslin, so I can play with it until it fits the bodice!

Lady Day · Feb 12, 2011

But thats the point of the stay. Put it around your waist (the stay) and see how far it fits then compare that to the waist of your dress from the envelope picture and there you go.

LD

Drappa · Feb 12, 2011

Oh ok, I'll try that.

Drappa · Feb 18, 2011

Has anyone got this book, and if so, is it worth the steep price? It has really good reviews, but £62 for a book is more than I normally spend.

Fitting and Pattern Alteration 2nd Edition
A Multi-Method Approach
Elizabeth L. Liechty, Della N. Pottberg-Steineckert, Judith A. Rasband

ohairas · Feb 18, 2011

Please help with pattern layout~
I'm still very new to using patterns. I'm going to use this vintage Hollywood 413, (top left)

It will have the Scarlett O'Hara flare of the BBQ dress... green belt and apron.

The fabric I have is a king size sheet and I'm not sure how to lay the pattern out. It's mostly roses, but there are fine vines running through it in a rather hourglass or serpentine fashion. Do I try to go with that length wise or have them go across? Do I bother trying to match them? I don't want the dress to look "striped".
One pic has a quarter for reference~ the vines range from about 4-6 inches wide.

The pattern layout sheet shows the skirt pieces flip flopped every other section. Should I just do it that way?

Lauren · Feb 18, 2011

Very pretty sheet!
I admit I don't usually use cutting layouts. Since you've got a sheet and not yardage I wouldn't really bother following theirs, just make sure you've got everything on grain and on the fold or mirrored where it needs to be. Since it doesn't look directional really, you can flip flop the pieces any way you like as long as it's on grain and they're cut identical (like, no right front or left front- but for both sides cut the same).
If you have enough to play with the pattern, then you can cut however you want to center them or have them be wherever you want. But unless it's on grain or you think the skirt would hang well on the true bias I wouldn't really deviate from that.

sheeplady · Feb 18, 2011

I would agree with Lauren's advice. The only thing I would add, is to consider where on the pattern of the sheet the bust area is going to fall. You might not want a rose right on center of each of your ladies, if you know what I mean.

You can play around with the placement of the pattern piece to make sure that this doesn't happen. (If you do want a large rose placed artfully over each area of the bust, then go right ahead, but most women do not).

ohairas · Feb 20, 2011

Thank you ladies! I will give it a go.. hopefully within the week!

Bombshell Becca · Mar 14, 2011

Can anyone recomend a easy pattern for a full 50's style skirt?

Lady Day · Mar 14, 2011

See, I think that's a myth that circle skirts are easy. I find a lot of new sewers get wrapped up into the fab-ness of a full skirt, but the attention to the hem and if its cut on the bias *gasp*.

Have you considered a pleated skirt thats full or one gathered at the waist?

LD

Bombshell Becca · Mar 14, 2011

I am open to any suggestions

I got to start somewhere.

Drappa · Mar 14, 2011

My first vintage skirt was a 4 gore skirt pattern and it was easy and turned out really well. I don't recall the brand, but it's something like this
http://http://www.etsy.com/listing/67071973/1957-simplicity-sewing-pattern-2270-26w?ref=sr_gallery_13&ga_search_query=4+gore+skirt+pattern&ga_search_type=all&ga_facet=

Romamor4 · Mar 25, 2011

I just recently did a full circle skirt on the bias. It was REALLY tough. A lot of work! I love it now though. And the hem is not really perfect either. I had to do a lot of ironing and pinning to get it to fold up right and it still was difficult to sew straight.

sheeplady · Mar 25, 2011

Romamor4 said:
I just recently did a full circle skirt on the bias. It was REALLY tough. A lot of work! I love it now though. And the hem is not really perfect either. I had to do a lot of ironing and pinning to get it to fold up right and it still was difficult to sew straight.

Did you use a hem marker? I find that really helpful. You put the skirt on (with the shoes you will wear), and have someone rotate around you and pin your skirt every 2-3 inches. The pins go in where the end of the skirt (the hemmed line falls) so you just measure from the pins what your hem allowance will be, mark with chalk, and trim off any excess fabric. Then you use the pins as a guide, as the pins should be on the edge of the finished hem, once the hem is done. You still need to do a lot of ironing for a hem though, so it doesn't help with that.

You should post a picture!

Romamor4 · Mar 25, 2011

sheeplady said:
Did you use a hem marker? I find that really helpful. You put the skirt on (with the shoes you will wear), and have someone rotate around you and pin your skirt every 2-3 inches. The pins go in where the end of the skirt (the hemmed line falls) so you just measure from the pins what your hem allowance will be, mark with chalk, and trim off any excess fabric. Then you use the pins as a guide, as the pins should be on the edge of the finished hem, once the hem is done. You still need to do a lot of ironing for a hem though, so it doesn't help with that.

You should post a picture!

I actually didn't use a hem marker. I measured the appropriate length around the edge of the skirt and ironed that in. Then I cut off any excess depending on the length of the hem allowance that I wanted. I then proceeded to fold inward and iron flat the allowance. I then pinned it down. I find the ironing helps a lot. Had I had more time, I probably would have used hem tape.

Here's some photo's!

Swingers Ball 2011 001 by Romamor4, on Flickr

Swingers Ball 2011 002 by Romamor4, on Flickr

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