Buying a leather jacket

Monitor said:

You don't necessarily have to eliminate your local leather shops, not at all, but be sure to know what you're paying for. Ask about the leather they're working with, make sure it's the good stuff, etc. With brick and mortar stores you have the luxury of inspecting the goods yourself before dropping your hard earned money for it and that's important.

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But there is no way of inspecting the tailoring though, nor could I know how they worked on it behind-the-scenes. Generally we have Bison here, which is considered a "rich peoples'" store, people regard it as something equivalent to Rolex here... Other than that, there are a couple of other stores that strictly keep up with the current trends, and I can barely stand the current trends, heh. Otherwise, there is a possibility of a marketplace... Think Egypt-like marketplace, except it's on dedicated grounds, not all over the city (from what I heard about Egypt anyway).

Monitor said:

Look at this Vanson:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Vanson-Leathers-House-Jacket-Sz-40/181684833061
It's the first one that popped up when I eBay-ed for 'Vanson leather jacket'. Looks mint, it's in your size and you might even be able to get it for less than $500, which is a very good deal. And trust me, you cannot buy a better leather jacket than that. So if you like this style and if it's within your budget, I'd say that in theory this pretty much concludes your search for a leather jacket.

This is just an example of course but yeah, don't give up on... online shopping just yet!

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Well, to comment on this particular jacket: first off, I want pure black, I don't want any writings or more so - ribbon-like thingies on it (if not not - I love the design). Other than that, I still don't have $500, I don't even have $300 before (if?) I sell my nubuck leather jacket. I think the best decision would be to postpone this 'hunt' for a long while, until I can afford something of decent quality, while in the meantime passively follow the searches for Aero, Beck, Branded Orchard, Schott and Vanson on Ebay. If I'm going to buy something, it's something that I actually want to put on and go out in. I've been gifted used clothing that I dislike enough to know that I don't want to settle for something different from what I want - I want to finally have something I actually want to wear.

First..find out your measurements to determine how you would like a leather jacket to fit. Most generally the jacket sleeve is preferred longer than a shirt sleeve measurement by an inch or two..and long enough in the body length to cover your belt. You can either measure sleeve length from the middle of your neck across to outside of shoulder down to the end of wrist or slightly on to hand (as they do a shirt) which might be 33"...or from top out side of shoulder down to end of wrist slightly on to the hand which might be 24-25". Body length would be bottom of collar in back to bottom hem of where you want jacket to end below belt. Search out company web sites on just what style you prefer (Half Belt...Cafe...or Longer leather coat,etc) Some good brands are Alexander Leathers..Aero Leathers...Lost Worlds leathers...Vanson Leathers and Schott among others. EBay is a good place to find used or slightly used leather jackets of well known brands. Often around $500 or less. Here on the forum are photos of most popular better brands and how many of the members here like for them to fit. Just type the brand names that you may be interest in the top right search box and many pages will come up to click on. Take your time and research then I'm sure you will find what you are looking for.
HD

The best way to determine measurements that work is to base them on a jacket you like the fit of. For a short leather jacket a denim or work jacket will provide a good starting point - you can then see if you need to add or loose an inch here or there.

Be aware that getting the fit right is tricky and many people don't get this right until their second, third or fourth jacket. Your first jacket will rarely do the trick.

lthr said:

Otherwise, there is a possibility of a marketplace... Think Egypt-like marketplace, except it's on dedicated grounds, not all over the city (from what I heard about Egypt anyway).

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We have something like that in our country too, there they will show how authentic the leather is by running a lighter on it, also try to convince everyone sheepskin is the best leather around, and how cowhide is much inferior to it. While the jackets hanged on their shop look horrendous, and some of them also advice to clean leather jacket with cooking oil, repair the faded parts with a dab of shoe polish, and treat the leather with silicone spray... weekly or after each use (already suggesting the buyers will probably only want to be seen in those stupid jackets once a week or less after dark in a moonless night )

lthr said:

....I want pure black, I don't want any writings or more so - ribbon-like thingies on it .... If I'm going to buy something, it's something that I actually want to put on and go out in. I've been gifted used clothing that I dislike enough to know that I don't want to settle for something different from what I want - I want to finally have something I actually want to wear.

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I must say I agree with all that, so you better wait for the right one.
However if you want to satisfy your thirst of moto/ cafe racer jacket in black right now, it can be made or bought in thick black cotton/ canvas/ denim/ corduroy, which probably your tailor who already familiar with your size willing to work with and get a perfect fit, while waiting for the leather one.

Like you I also don't collect many jackets, and only want moto style jacket, I happened to have it custom made, and the prototype jacket they make for fitting was is denim, in the end I asked them to give it lining, and inner pocket, and I love it as much as the leather version.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/eastman-lea...183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d8e44067

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lost-Worlds...728?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19fcee62f0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VANSON-Come...680?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2edea2eb78

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sch...ize-mens-38-/131453094041?hash=item1e9b370899

here is a steal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acme-Leathe...741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d8c8cf3d

over there near you: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aero-Leat...036?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19fcf9d5d4

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Superb-ST...189?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d2ed9f6ad

LouisBailie said:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/eastman-lea...183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d8e44067

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lost-Worlds...728?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19fcee62f0

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Those don't look 'black' to me.

Don't worry HD, the fact the colour is wrong won't matter as the price will be way above his budget. The logn one is already $300 over and no one has bid.

There are other artisan leather jacket makers around that aren't well known. If you're not in a hurry you should be able to get a nice looking and well made second hand jacket for around $200 Euro. Some of my favourite, best fitting jackets were second hand and cheap.

you can try the alexanders outlet site, they have alot of black jackets in smaller sizes, some are very reasonable for the quality.

HoosierDaddy said:

First..find out your measurements to determine how you would like a leather jacket to fit. Most generally the jacket sleeve is preferred longer than a shirt sleeve measurement by an inch or two..and long enough in the body length to cover your belt. You can either measure sleeve length from the middle of your neck across to outside of shoulder down to the end of wrist or slightly on to hand (as they do a shirt) which might be 33"...or from top out side of shoulder down to end of wrist slightly on to the hand which might be 24-25". Body length would be bottom of collar in back to bottom hem of where you want jacket to end below belt. Search out company web sites on just what style you prefer (Half Belt...Cafe...or Longer leather coat,etc) Some good brands are Alexander Leathers..Aero Leathers...Lost Worlds leathers...Vanson Leathers and Schott among others. EBay is a good place to find used or slightly used leather jackets of well known brands. Often around $500 or less. Here on the forum are photos of most popular better brands and how many of the members here like for them to fit. Just type the brand names that you may be interest in the top right search box and many pages will come up to click on. Take your time and research then I'm sure you will find what you are looking for.
HD

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I think the sleeves should go to around half an inch to an inch above your knuckles. Not sure though - just guessing here. As for my sleeve length, it's ~26.5", I know because I've bought a dress shirt a while back. Length would be around 20-21".

While I dislike this jacket, this would be the length (and fit) that I think looks pretty good: http://thingd-media-ec2.thefancy.com/default/159746058388243677_452c62102a72.jpg
For some examples of the kind of jackets I like, it'd be Arkansas and Roadster from Alexander Leathers, or Highwayman and Cafe Racer from Aero, or Casual Weekend and Racer jackets from Schott or AZ2 and Mercury from Vanson or Rigger and "Test" 1930s jackets. I particularly like those from Vanson, actually.

Either way, thanks for the tips, especially about the brand tips - I'll definitely use that function to see whether or not it may be a good purchase, if I find something that I like on Ebay.

Seb Lucas said:

The best way to determine measurements that work is to base them on a jacket you like the fit of. For a short leather jacket a denim or work jacket will provide a good starting point - you can then see if you need to add or loose an inch here or there.

Be aware that getting the fit right is tricky and many people don't get this right until their second, third or fourth jacket. Your first jacket will rarely do the trick.

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Hmm. So since (especially) I'd be likely buying it online, I should get a denim jacket instead, before I consider buying a leather one?

navetsea said:

We have something like that in our country too, there they will show how authentic the leather is by running a lighter on it, also try to convince everyone sheepskin is the best leather around, and how cowhide is much inferior to it. While the jackets hanged on their shop look horrendous, and some of them also advice to clean leather jacket with cooking oil, repair the faded parts with a dab of shoe polish, and treat the leather with silicone spray... weekly or after each use (already suggesting the buyers will probably only want to be seen in those stupid jackets once a week or less after dark in a moonless night )


I must say I agree with all that, so you better wait for the right one.
However if you want to satisfy your thirst of moto/ cafe racer jacket in black right now, it can be made or bought in thick black cotton/ canvas/ denim/ corduroy, which probably your tailor who already familiar with your size willing to work with and get a perfect fit, while waiting for the leather one.

Like you I also don't collect many jackets, and only want moto style jacket, I happened to have it custom made, and the prototype jacket they make for fitting was is denim, in the end I asked them to give it lining, and inner pocket, and I love it as much as the leather version.

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Yea, the people selling there are mostly quite slimy, whatever it is you may be buying. Always trying to sell something that costs a lot more but isn't much better and trying to convince that something that I wouldn't pay $5 is worth $50. But that's how it works and that's how they make money. Not complaining, I just don't go to those places instead.

I'll stay without a denim jacket for now, I don't have much money as you figured. That'd cost me around $100-150, which would be half of what I have. Good suggestion though, just not for my situation. Though I'm starting to consider getting a 'natural' blue denim jacket instead as it's much cheaper, but I don't think I'll be very happy if it'll come in the place of a leather jacket. It's kind of a 'trade-off', so I think I may start disliking it for the idea of having bought it instead of saving up for a leather jacket. Also, I'd like to have a bomber jacket too, but that's for when I'll have more money and be able to afford it. Moto is just more flexible if you're buying only one jacket, in my opinion. Besides, I like the look of it a lot.

Seb Lucas said:

Don't worry HD, the fact the colour is wrong won't matter as the price will be way above his budget. The logn one is already $300 over and no one has bid.

There are other artisan leather jacket makers around that aren't well known. If you're not in a hurry you should be able to get a nice looking and well made second hand jacket for around $200 Euro. Some of my favourite, best fitting jackets were second hand and cheap.

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Yea, I'm not in a rush. Probably not a good idea to wear one in 25C anyway, which is how hot it's gonna be in 2-3 months.

Swoosed said:

you can try the alexanders outlet site, they have alot of black jackets in smaller sizes, some are very reasonable for the quality.

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Thanks, I commented on that above in this message.

I just got a Schott Cowhide Casual Racer last month, though it hasn't been anywhere near warm enough to wear it here yet. It's a really nice jacket, but even the bargain I got it for ($450, no sales tax, free shipping) is out of your range.



It's a shame that Wested doesn't make a standard café racer jacket among their many styles. Their prices are great, even with customizations, and their quality is good... if not quite mega-tough military spec. I've had one of their lambskin Raiders jackets for twelve years and I love it. (Wested even repaired it FOR FREE when the back panel tore and needed replacement! Talk about great customer service.)

Doctor Strange said:

I just got a Schott Cowhide Casual Racer last month, though it hasn't been anywhere near warm enough to wear it here yet. It's a really nice jacket, but even the bargain I got it for ($450, no sales tax, free shipping) is out of your range.

It's a shame that Wested doesn't make a standard café racer jacket among their many styles. Their prices are great, even with customizations, and their quality is good... if not quite mega-tough military spec. I've had one of their lambskin Raiders jackets for twelve years and I love it. (Wested even repaired it FOR FREE when the back panel tore and needed replacement! Talk about great customer service.)

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For curiosity's sake I checked the weather in Hudson Valley - how warm does it have to be for you to wear leather jackets? I'd be wearing it since 30-35F for example, so I'm curious. Also, up to how warm would you wear a leather jacket?

Anyway, the jacket looks great on you!

Quality customer service is so rare nowadays... People seem to be dodging and hiding or outright telling you that they aren't going to do anything anything OR instead you get a really short warranty. I.e. some stuff that used to get 2-3 years warranty now gets 6-12 months. But we're going offtopic here.

We've just endured over two months of much colder than normal winter weather here. Until the last couple of days, it hadn't broken 25 degrees at all since December. We had long runs of single-digit temps and lots of subzero nights, with daytime highs only making it to 10 or 15 degrees... and lots of snow. (This is unusual: while we do normally get runs of major cold in January and February, we also typically get some thirties and forties to balance it. I've gone hiking in the Hudson Highlands more than once in recent years when there was no snow cover in January.)

I don't wear my leather jackets below 40 degrees or so - and I'm talking about the flight jackets with good wool knits on the sleeves and waist, over a good sweater. I envision a lightweight jacket like the 654 - with no knits and a thin nylon lining - as being good for the upper fifties and sixties, over a long- or short-sleeve shirt as appropriate. Maybe a real moto jacket - with a warm zip-out lining and sleeve zippers that actually seal the sleeves (the 654 sleeve zips are cosmetic, they don't change the seal) - would be warm enough in the thirties, but not the 654.

And it's a personal issue, temperature. I tend to run cold compared to lots of other people, so I'm perhaps more sensitive to the cold.

Though to answer your other question... My lightest "summer weight" leather jacket is my lambskin Wested: no knits, thin hide, cotton lined. I can wear it up to about 70 or 72 degrees over just a T-shirt - even a few degrees less if there's also blazing sun and no breeze. Leather becomes uncomfortable pretty quickly when it's really warm.

Doctor Strange said:

I just got a Schott Cowhide Casual Racer last month, though it hasn't been anywhere near warm enough to wear it here yet. It's a really nice jacket, but even the bargain I got it for ($450, no sales tax, free shipping) is out of your range.

View attachment 25693

It's a shame that Wested doesn't make a standard café racer jacket among their many styles. Their prices are great, even with customizations, and their quality is good... if not quite mega-tough military spec. I've had one of their lambskin Raiders jackets for twelve years and I love it. (Wested even repaired it FOR FREE when the back panel tore and needed replacement! Talk about great customer service.)

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Wested are a good option when money is tight. Another place you might look at is Silverman's surplus store in London, UK - they have an extensive online operation and will post. www.silvermans.co.uk THey do some expensive stuff, but also they have a range of cheaper jackets, especially in their house brand GTH, which I've looked at (I lived nearby), and they aren't bad. Not as good as the likes of Aero, but close enough Schott that I might question which to buy.... Schott, though, are grand too, and with patience can be had at reasonable prices used, on eBay. In general I'd avoid buying from outside the EU where money is tight, at least until the US dollar drops again, as postage and VAT can bite hard.

Style-wise, how do you want to wear it? Casual, with jeans? Office-casual? A simple cafe racer style would be a nice option that will fit in a lot of places where a Brando/Perfecto style might not. Keep an eye on ebay at everything in your budget, check around online reviews, be sure abouyt brands and reputations, and you should be able to find something nice at a viable price. Johnson in San Francisco make lovely stuff that isn't so well known in Europe, so if you find a used one of those online, for example, you might score it cheap on eBay. Etsy.com is also worth a look. Once you've decided on a specific style, you might be able to narrow the3 net on eBay. A lot of great British motorcycle leathers from the 70s and eighties still out there, for instance. Lewises are crazy money, but a brand like Wolf or TT leathers can sometimes be had for less. If you're prepared to do a little restorative work (using a product like Black Leather Jacket, for instance), you might find a bargain too.

Doctor Strange said:

We've just endured over two months of much colder than normal winter weather here. Until the last couple of days, it hadn't broken 25 degrees at all since December. We had long runs of single-digit temps and lots of subzero nights, with daytime highs only making it to 10 or 15 degrees... and lots of snow. (This is unusual: while we do normally get runs of major cold in January and February, we also typically get some thirties and forties to balance it. I've gone hiking in the Hudson Highlands more than once in recent years when there was no snow cover in January.)

I don't wear my leather jackets below 40 degrees or so - and I'm talking about the flight jackets with good wool knits on the sleeves and waist, over a good sweater. I envision a lightweight jacket like the 654 - with no knits and a thin nylon lining - as being good for the upper fifties and sixties, over a long- or short-sleeve shirt as appropriate. Maybe a real moto jacket - with a warm zip-out lining and sleeve zippers that actually seal the sleeves (the 654 sleeve zips are cosmetic, they don't change the seal) - would be warm enough in the thirties, but not the 654.

And it's a personal issue, temperature. I tend to run cold compared to lots of other people, so I'm perhaps more sensitive to the cold.

Though to answer your other question... My lightest "summer weight" leather jacket is my lambskin Wested: no knits, thin hide, cotton lined. I can wear it up to about 70 or 72 degrees over just a T-shirt - even a few degrees less if there's also blazing sun and no breeze. Leather becomes uncomfortable pretty quickly when it's really warm.

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Meh, I'd probably go out in 20-25F too if I had a warm sweater. Now I just have a bunch of clothing that are quite uncomfortable to stack, so I just put on a short puff coat that I was gifted (used) - it's warm enough for me to walk around in a T-shirt underneath. But I understand that you aren't used to weather this cold over there. And 10-15 or less (especially sub-zero) - that's freezing! It hasn't been that cold here for long this year (which is unusual), nor did we have much snow. If I recall correctly, it snowed only once, coincidentally when I was ill and couldn't leave. Weather is sure getting strange around the world these past couple of years, consider that it was pretty much switched around for Eastern Europe and North America.

Speaking of different jackets, I think I'd go out with a bomber jacket (as it's sealed up) in up to 10F, maybe even going down to 0F. I mean, no inner lining and such. While moving, I'm pretty warm, I do get really cold at my computer (or doing anything else stationary) though. I do have more of a problem than most people with the cold, but only when stationary. And I don't have a car - go figure how much I'd be standing around outside.

Yea, that's what I figured, I'd love to be able to wear a leather jacket in the summer, but the temps aren't fit for that. Thanks for confirming that, ~70F is around what I imagined for when one should wear a plain T-shirt or a button-up shirt (whatever's your choice).

Edward said:

Wested are a good option when money is tight. Another place you might look at is Silverman's surplus store in London, UK - they have an extensive online operation and will post. www.silvermans.co.uk THey do some expensive stuff, but also they have a range of cheaper jackets, especially in their house brand GTH, which I've looked at (I lived nearby), and they aren't bad. Not as good as the likes of Aero, but close enough Schott that I might question which to buy.... Schott, though, are grand too, and with patience can be had at reasonable prices used, on eBay. In general I'd avoid buying from outside the EU where money is tight, at least until the US dollar drops again, as postage and VAT can bite hard.

Style-wise, how do you want to wear it? Casual, with jeans? Office-casual? A simple cafe racer style would be a nice option that will fit in a lot of places where a Brando/Perfecto style might not. Keep an eye on ebay at everything in your budget, check around online reviews, be sure abouyt brands and reputations, and you should be able to find something nice at a viable price. Johnson in San Francisco make lovely stuff that isn't so well known in Europe, so if you find a used one of those online, for example, you might score it cheap on eBay. Etsy.com is also worth a look. Once you've decided on a specific style, you might be able to narrow the3 net on eBay. A lot of great British motorcycle leathers from the 70s and eighties still out there, for instance. Lewises are crazy money, but a brand like Wolf or TT leathers can sometimes be had for less. If you're prepared to do a little restorative work (using a product like Black Leather Jacket, for instance), you might find a bargain too.

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Hmm, I checked out Wested (before as well), but there isn't something I'd like to buy at the moment. There are some nice jackets, but they have some features that I either dislike about them or that make them less flexible than I'd like the jacket to be. Very good prices though, compared to what I've seen elsewhere. As for Silverman's, their online store is... Quite empty. It's mostly filled with Parkas and such, it seems (at least the Jackets category).

I'd wear it casual and from time to time - business casual. I only own one dress shirt, so I'd mostly be wearing T-shirts or a jumper. That's what the guy who gives me away his clothing wears - he's the 'clubber' type that likes fancy brands and enjoys looking rich (like the Armani bag he carries around or the golden chain). It's not my style at all. So along with a jumper or a T-shirt, I'd be wearing jeans and either sneakers or dress shoes (a while back I bought a pair to go with the suit - they are really comfortable, but I can't wear them when I go to a forest or some similar place - they'd get pretty dirty).

As for Brando/Perfecto style (didn't know it has a name!), I was considering that, but I thought it to be even less flexible than a bomber jacket, so I went with a cafe racer style - which seems to be most flexible. Here's a quote from my previous post: "For some examples of the kind of jackets I like, it'd be Arkansas and Roadster from Alexander Leathers, or Highwayman and Cafe Racer from Aero, or Casual Weekend and Racer jackets from Schott or AZ2 and Mercury from Vanson or Rigger and "Test" 1930s jackets. I particularly like those from Vanson, actually."

As for restoration, how costly is that, how difficult is it and how good are the results?

I don't know how hot your summer could be, but I live in a place with constant 26-31 Celsius and I'm wearing it all day indoor and outdoor, no sweating... the leather itself is quite decent in insulating heat from outside sources like tropical sunray even when the jacket is black, it would only feel hot if the liner has padding or made out of wool or other warm material since they keep your own body heat. I also wear long sleeve cotton t-shirts mainly underneath it feel comfy throughout the day, non-branded long sleeve t-shirts in white, charcoal, and black each in several neck models (v neck, crew neck, turtle, loose turtle neck) and henleys, some of my favorite t-shirts were made by my mom.

You're kidding! I wouldn't and in fact can't wear leather at any temperature over 21 these days (that's 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Horrible. Nights and early mornings after or before the sun, sure, but not during

navetsea said:

I don't know how hot your summer could be, but I live in a place with constant 26-31 Celsius and I'm wearing it all day indoor and outdoor, no sweating... the leather itself is quite decent in insulating heat from outside sources like tropical sunray even when the jacket is black, it would only feel hot if the liner has padding or made out of wool or other warm material since they keep your own body heat. I also wear long sleeve cotton t-shirts mainly underneath it feel comfy throughout the day, non-branded long sleeve t-shirts in white, charcoal, and black each in several neck models (v neck, crew neck, turtle, loose turtle neck) and henleys, some of my favorite t-shirts were made by my mom.

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Okay, now I just want to try this purely for curiosity's sake. Heh.

no kidding, mine is lined with simple japanese (rayon/satin??) no padding and it doesn't get hot as long as I don't zip it up, my other jacket with silicone padded lining and local satin does get hot after few minutes wearing it indoor in my climate. what kind of fabric your clothes is made from makes huge different, I have a thin t-shirt almost sheer I thought it would be cool but it is very hot under the jacket because it has too much polyester.

Your Japanses jacket isn't linedc in silk, by any chance? Silk will be breathable and can help with keeping cool in the heat. The hottest I've ever managed to wear leather in was 22C, but that invovledc a lot of sheer bloody-mindedness to manage it.... Summer here in London is usually anywhere between 26C and 34C. It's hateful. Money no object I'd spend July and August in a cold climate, and only return to London for the Autumn. In my perfect world, there'd be two weeks of 22C weather in July (because I like to wear linen sometimes), but otherwise it would never rise above 15C.