Oilskin coats

Peacoat said:

Barbour. Made by our friends in the UK.

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I'm a fan of the Barbour International myself. Originally I wanted a Belstaff, but they got to be silly money. The Barbour new, last I looked, was in the region of GBP100+ cheaper than the Belstaff, and just as good. In the end, I fell in with a superb deal on a Barbour on eBay. The slightly slimmer, Trials model. Slimmer fit, and no provision to take a Winter liner. Fine for me as I wanted it for those drizzly days when you're out and about and want to keep the rain off the back of your shoulders, but it's not so wet that the length of the jacket becomes an issue (as Hal pointed out above; of course, when these were still common motorcycle wear, they would have been worn with matching overtrousers).

jeep44 said:

I have to agree about the Kakadu Nelson-I have one,and I'm quite pleased with it,and I consider it to be the equal of my Barbour International for quality.

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Almost bought one of those myself until I lucked into my Barbour. I did later buy one for my Dad for a birthday present, as I couldn't quite afford the Barbour for him at the time. As a garment, it's every bit as good as the Barbour. If you're hung up on Chinese manufacture as a bad thing in and of itself, it's not for you, but as a garment I can't fault it, especially at that price. The one design element for which I did not care was that it replaces studs on the windflap over the zip with velcro fasteners, but that's to personal taste not quality. If I get the the point where I can justify the brown one I also fancy, I will probably go to Kakadu (as the brown version, under a different model name, does have studs).

Navin323i said:

Thanks Dave! Man, I was way off in regards to what I thought oilskin might be.

Are oilskin jackets primarily worn during wet weather or do people where them in dry weather too?

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I assume you were thinking of Aero's oilpull hide? They're worn often in dry weather too, as pointed out above. My experience has been that the waxed surface has a little bit of a 'windbreaker' effect. The standard four-pocket Barbour country coat has been almost a uniform for the hunting set for generations in England, while the belted International, alongside Belstaff's Trialmaster, was very common motorcycle gear for many, many years (back in the days when there was less traffic and bikes were slower, before the demand for armoured, protective clothing there is now).

jeep44 said:

I think if you are going to wear a Barbour, Belstaff,or Kakadu on a motorcycle,you don't want it too fitted. None of these coats have any warmth to them, and I often have to wear a fleece jacket under mine,plus I often have the pockets jammed with stuff,too. Here's the look everyone aspires to:

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I always viewed them as being much like a shorter trench coat.... boxy design, with the belt to pull it in at the waist. Were they fitted, they wouldn't need the waist belt...

Sidney Oilskin

I have a black Sidney Oilskin coat with the rain drape shoulders (removable) which I received as a gift in grade 10 for Christmas. I love it, and I've worn it for ages (I'm now 29, and the coat is still in very good condition). My wife hates the "wings" as she calls it, but I love it. One thing is undeniable, the coat will keep you dry! I've been out in torrential downpours and always stayed warm and cozy. Mine is the long duster style, which I quite like.

One little hint; make sure the pocket flaps don't accidentally get tucked in when it's raining, or you'll get water inside the pockets and onto your pants.

I just purchased a Drizabone Brumby and Beltrees Vest. They look great with an Akubra hat. From my research the 12oz fabric they offer is the thickest in the business. Some other brands offer 8oz.

It came directly from Drizabone in a plastic mailer not a box....soaked in wax. I hope it dries out just a little. I have them airing out in the garage.

Size ?

Here is where it was tricky. I will clear things up for you. I am 5' 10" tall 48" suit jacket 17 1/2 " neck dress shirt. I purchased the *4XL. A Drizabone 4XL would be equal to a generously fit USA XXL ( 50-52 chest ). It fits loose with room for a sweater underneath.

Edward:

I also have the Barbour International. Got it on sale recently.

I had a Drizabone Brumby at 6 ft 2 and 183 pounds I wore a large. I gave it away in the end I didn't think the pattern was all that flattering - it's a bit shapeless . I wonder too since there are a lot of pleats in the design would it tend to wear and fray in those spot? The photo of the Brumby above makes me want one again.

Seb Lucas said:

I had a Drizabone Brumby at 6 ft 2 and 183 pounds I wore a large. I gave it away in the end I didn't think the pattern was all that flattering - it's a bit shapeless . I wonder too since there are a lot of pleats in the design would it tend to wear and fray in those spot? The photo of the Brumby above makes me want one again.

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It seems like your measurements put you in the lean and mean category. You would probably benefit from a slim fit jacket. The customer service rep from Drizabone said these are cut for layering. This is a field jacket ....for hunting or outdoor work which usually means it has to accommodate a bi-swing movement.

I don't see any pleats in my vest or jacket. Perhaps you had an older model ?

You can see the pleated fabric (perhaps the wrong word) in the photos above, at the end of the sleeves and ones you can see at the front meeting the waistband. I noted that the cloth dried out quicker there in the folding than elsewhere. Folds and creases are the vulnerable spots in oil cloth. I've been wearing various Drizabone oilskins for 35 years and I agree with you about the thickness - none of the big names seem to make such robust oil cloth. My size large Brumby was very roomy and perhaps that's why I felt it was a bit shapeless. It had a pit to pit of 24-25 inches from memory.

Seb Lucas said:

You can see the pleated fabric (perhaps the wrong word) in the photos above, at the end of the sleeves and ones you can see at the front meeting the waistband. I noted that the cloth dried out quicker there in the folding than elsewhere. Folds and creases are the vulnerable spots in oil cloth.

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I see it. You need to consider that the crease has been emphasized with wax which could sharpen the creases even more than normal. I'd think of it as tearing two pieces of paper in half after folding it. You also need to consider that this a cotton jacket. Anything cotton shows wear and tear after enough use.....jeans twill socks undies tshirts Etc. Cotton isn't mean't to be a lifetime garment.

Well actually oil cloth is meant to be a lifetime garment and I suspect that the folds compromise the integrity of the jacket. They did not need to put these folds in the pattern but chose to do so. Dirizabone always recommends you treat folds in oilskin fabric with caution as they tend to wear faster and here they are putting them in deliberately. That's my point. One of these jackets should be good for 30-40 years, depending on your work.

I've been casually looking at oilskin coats recently and came across the following in an online listing. I've never heard of such a thing and have to wonder how a hair dryer would affect things, although I admit it's intriguing since I dislike the waxy/oily/stickiness that new waterproof jackets have until the excess wears off.

"When new Oilskin Dusters may have some light oil surface residue from the waterproofing process. It will evaporate over time or you can use a hair dryer to speed up the process."

I use a hairdryer when rewaxing a Barbour. It melts the surface wax into the fabric and reduces the oiliness to the touch.

barnabus said:

I use a hairdryer when rewaxing a Barbour. It melts the surface wax into the fabric and reduces the oiliness to the touch.

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Same for treating leather boots with Obenauf's or the like. Hair dryer or an afternoon in the sun followed by a good brushing and they are perfect, non-tacky.

barnabus said:

I use a hairdryer when rewaxing a Barbour. It melts the surface wax into the fabric and reduces the oiliness to the touch.

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patrick_b said:

Same for treating leather boots with Obenauf's or the like. Hair dryer or an afternoon in the sun followed by a good brushing and they are perfect, non-tacky.

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Okay, that's interesting, I had assumed it was just some crazy idea. That makes me feel more comfy getting waxed or oiled jackets in the future since I can get them wearable faster. Thanks gents!

Or how to have fun on a Sunday afternoon after a big lunch!
https://www.orvis.co.uk/s/guide-to-barbour-repair-reproof/2985

I have a Claybourn full (calf) length, oilskin riding coat. Picked up in Melbourne in the early ‘90s. It’s an older, more traditional coat than the Drizabone

Doctor Damage said:

I've been casually looking at oilskin coats recently and came across the following in an online listing. I've never heard of such a thing and have to wonder how a hair dryer would affect things, although I admit it's intriguing since I dislike the waxy/oily/stickiness that new waterproof jackets have until the excess wears off.

"When new Oilskin Dusters may have some light oil surface residue from the waterproofing process. It will evaporate over time or you can use a hair dryer to speed up the process."

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A hairdryer is an indispensable tool when it comes to waxed cotton gear. It's almost impossible to do a good job re-waxing a jacket without a hairdryer. When I do it it's only with the use of a hairdryer that I can get an even wax finish - it really allows the wax to sink into the fabric. It stops the excess wax from marring the finish and feeling sticky. I have a few waxed cotton jackets and the annoying thing is they need re-waxing every year or two. It's one of those fiddly tasks that requires a fair bit of effort and time.

Fabric. Leather. A hair dryer is indeed an indispensable tool in maintenance thereof.

I believe this was shared elsewhere on the board, and if so, thank you to the original poster and finder. I have not used it myself, but I have every intention of trying it. I believe it is a DIY hack for something like Otter Wax, which I've also never used. I've only used the Barbour stuff, so I don't know how differently Otter Wax and Barbour behave in application or perform from each other.

homemade wax:
https://www.shelbyoutdoor.com/?cPath=405_434_515&language=en