Horsehide Perfecto-style jackets

nattevagten · Jun 4, 2020

Monitor said:
I don't recall at the moment what my 42 Aero MC jacket was around the waist but I know it was very, very tight. Like, the rest of the jacket was super roomy everywhere around but the bottom hem was skintight to the point that I couldn't zip it up over layers. It was something crazy, from 24" P2P to like 19" waist. Honestly, I didn't like it much at all even though it was beautiful to look at.
I think you'd be much happier with the J-106. Very comfortable style, not so extremely cut. I was much happier with it straight from the box than I ever was with an MC jacket even after a few months of non stop wear.

Yeah, I think I need at least a 19" waist for the jacket to feel nice and comfortable with heavier layers. If your size 42 MC jacket had a 19" waist, it's probably around 17-18" for 38, which won't cut it.

It's a shame, as I have read many good things about Aero on this forum. I'll check out J-106.

nattevagten · Jun 4, 2020

Imuricecreamman said:
If I were to go the SB route I'd check out the Black Clayton horsehide. I think that would be perfect for a motorcycle style jacket. It's probably the most charismatic leather I've encountered so far.

Oh my. That leather looks amazing! Is it the regular Clayton HH or Clayton Vintage HH? I've heard the latter is slightly softer.

Imuricecreamman · Jun 4, 2020

nattevagten said:
Oh my. That leather looks amazing! Is it the regular Clayton HH or Clayton Vintage HH? I've heard the latter is slightly softer.

I think this is the regular. I have a Roadster in the burgundy and it's quite thick and substantial, but it feels really special and has amazing character.

This is mine when it was brand new.

And a couple of years of wear.

screenshot_20200406_213915_com-android-gallery3d-jpg.225593

Harris HTM · Jun 4, 2020

Imuricecreamman said:
If I were to go the SB route I'd check out the Black Clayton horsehide. I think that would be perfect for a motorcycle style jacket. It's probably the most charismatic leather I've encountered so far.

If I am not mistaken Clayton of Chesterfield, the legendary tannery, went bankrupt 2 years ago and then was bought by investors. I don't know if they still exist. I remember some british shoemakers that used Shell Cordovan by Clayton stopped producing shell shoes because of that.

nattevagten · Jun 4, 2020

Harris HTM said:
If I am not mistaken Clayton of Chesterfield, the legendary tannery, went bankrupt 2 years ago and then was bought by investors. I don't know if they still exist. I remember some british shoemakers that used Shell Cordovan by Clayton stopped producing shell shoes because of that.

SB has Clayton hides in their selection, so I imagine they are still active in some form or another.

Harris HTM · Jun 4, 2020

nattevagten said:
SB has Clayton hides in their selection, so I imagine they are still active in some form or another.

Could be, or maybe they have enough stock of old material. It's better to contact them to be sure.

Finn Vigorous · Jun 4, 2020

Clayton is Spire nowadays: https://www.spireleather.co.uk/

At least Pediwear's Edward & James brand shell cordovan shoes are made of Clayton's shell. Nice shoes and made by Cheaney in Northamptonshire.

Harris HTM · Jun 4, 2020

Finn Vigorous said:
Clayton is Spire nowadays: https://www.spireleather.co.uk/

At least Pediwear's Edward & James brand shell cordovan shoes are made of Clayton's shell. Nice shoes and made by Cheaney in Northamptonshire.

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/newsitem/english-cordovan.php

Finn Vigorous · Jun 4, 2020

Thanks for the info, I wasn't aware of that. I thought it was Tricker's who had some problems getting domestic shell cordovan.

Pediwear's blog post is dated in September last year and it seems they won't have any new stock of E&J shoes in shell. Still some already made pairs available in their web store.

Spire seems to have cordovan shells among other horse hides in their range, though, and in nice variety of tones: https://www.spireleather.co.uk/cordovan

Clayton hides were exclusive to SB. Maybe they keep on using some of the offerings from the new Spire/Clayton. At least vintage brown and black are listed on their web site.

Monitor · Jun 4, 2020

nattevagten said:
Yeah, I think I need at least a 19" waist for the jacket to feel nice and comfortable with heavier layers. If your size 42 MC jacket had a 19" waist, it's probably around 17-18" for 38, which won't cut it. It's a shame, as I have read many good things about Aero on this forum. I'll check out J-106.

It's best you check with Aero to make sure as their sizing can be all over the place but I do recall all three that I had to be heavily tapered. I'll be honest with you, I much, much preferred to wear Schott's take on the style.

Harris HTM · Jun 4, 2020

nattevagten said:
Yeah, I think I need at least a 19" waist for the jacket to feel nice and comfortable with heavier layers. If your size 42 MC jacket had a 19" waist, it's probably around 17-18" for 38, which won't cut it. It's a shame, as I have read many good things about Aero on this forum. I'll check out J-106.

check with Aero, I had one of my custom made jackets made as size 36 chest and shoulders and size 38 waist (for obvious, beer related, reasons).

Corsair42 · Jun 5, 2020

If you are still interested in Blattwerk leather I will post some pics of my custom tailgunner tomorrow. Blattwerk is a beautiful hide but it is very, very different to anything else I have seen. It has a matt finish to it and drapes like suede, is incredibly lightweight but has a lot of durability. I have seen it described as 'waxy' but thats not how I would describe it as 'waxy' implies a residue or tackiness to the touch, Blattwerk is more 'silky', it doesnt reflect light either, it almost absorbs it if that makes sense, you definitely get an 'organic' feel from the dyeing with olives. If you were looking for a smart/casual leather jacket vs something more rugged, Blattwerk is the way forward, FQHH it most definitely isnt but it is the most comfortable hide I have ever worn in a jacket.

marker2037 · Jun 5, 2020

Here is my newish Schott 613H horsehide taken today. I personally feel the leather is developing quite nicely with excellent grain and characteristics, although I don’t know what year this jacket was produced as I recently bought it like-new used and they don’t sell this model anymore (replaced by the 613SH). I can take some better shots of the leather over the weekend, but I can tell you it is breaking in and softening up nicely. I very much like the sheen this leather gives off and it just feels right on this style.

nattevagten · Jun 5, 2020

marker2037 said:
Here is my newish Schott 613H horsehide taken today. I personally feel the leather is developing quite nicely with excellent grain and characteristics, although I don’t know what year this jacket was produced as I recently bought it like-new used and they don’t sell this model anymore (replaced by the 613SH). I can take some better shots of the leather over the weekend, but ai can tel you it is breaking in and softening up nicely. I very much like the sheen this leather gives off and it just feels right on this style.
View attachment 239806

A great fit and nice looking leather. Do you have any experience with Schott's steerhide in comparison? I have read that their HH is or at least used to be slightly thinner than steer but stiffer at the same time, and also that Schott uses a slightly different horsehide on 613SH (compared to 613H, 618HH).

sweetfights · Jun 5, 2020

Imuricecreamman said:
If I were to go the SB route I'd check out the Black Clayton horsehide. I think that would be perfect for a motorcycle style jacket. It's probably the most charismatic leather I've encountered so far.

Black Clayton is an amazing leather. Lots of character and just as nice as any cxl I ever wore.

marker2037 · Jun 5, 2020

nattevagten said:
A great fit and nice looking leather. Do you have any experience with Schott's steerhide in comparison? I have read that their HH is or at least used to be slightly thinner than steer but stiffer at the same time, and also that Schott uses a slightly different horsehide on 613SH (compared to 613H, 618HH).

I don’t have any experience with any other Schott leather or jacket to be honest. But I can tell you that this leather is far from thin. It’s actually quite thick and stiff, but loosening up daily.

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