How do I buy a vintage leather riding jacket and not get ripped off?

Sherlocklooms · Mar 18, 2021

Hello All,

I visited a shop yesterday in Los Angeles that had a warehouse full of vintage clothing including many racks of leather jackets. It was like a museum, but instead of just looking, I could touch EVERYTHING. It was a fun experience. The vintage jackets had such swagger and character; they were gnarled like tree bark. Just awesome pieces.

I'm certain some members know the store I speak of.

I'm considering purchasing a jacket from this store, however I have no idea what I'm doing. The owner said that jackets range from 600-2000 and that his staff of expert tailors will take a jacket I like and make alterations for a better fit.

Here are my concerns and questions:

1) The pricing seems subjective to me. For instance I don't feel confident that I could turn around and sell the jacket for what I paid for. Besides becoming an expert myself, any quick guide to understanding and evaluating vintage jacket (most of these jackets are 50's, 60's, and 70's) prices?

2) These alterations are done with contemporary pieces of leather (not sure how this leather is sourced, colored, or from what beast). Do altering these vintage jackets decrease their value? Is it considered a faux pa to make such alterations on collectible jackets?

Thanks all. Any input would be extremely appreciated.

Monitor · Mar 18, 2021

Hi!

Sherlocklooms said:
1)Besides becoming an expert myself, any quick guide to understanding and evaluating vintage jacket (most of these jackets are 50's, 60's, and 70's) prices?

Sorry, no. Literally no. Same as with any hobby, years and years of experience, research, etc. You could however take some photos of the jacket you're interest in and ask here.

2)Do altering these vintage jackets decrease their value? Is it considered a faux pa to make such alterations on collectible jackets?

Alterations, especially extensive ones, can and will completely devalue a vintage leather jacket.

El Marro · Mar 18, 2021

That sounds like an amazing store!!!
To answer your first question, yes the prices are probably very subjective although I would assume the owner has some idea of what each piece might reasonably sell for and prices them accordingly.
There is no way to turn you into an expert overnight, the fact of the matter is you have to spend your time reading about jackets and you probably have to buy half a dozen or so before you really start to get an idea about things.
In this scenario I would advise you to look at jackets at the lower end of the price range. If you see something you like but aren’t sure if the price seems right then do a Google search on it. You might find links to a fedora lounge thread regarding that maker and perhaps even the exact model.
As far as the alterations go that seems a little bogus to me. Unless you have an unusual build where stock sizes never fit, you it should be able to find a leather jacket off the rack that fits you well. If I were to consider alterations it would always be to make a larger jacket smaller, I would never have someone add new leather or material to a vintage jacket because it would probably turn into a frankenjacket.

handymike · Mar 18, 2021

Please PM me with the store...that way I have a frame of reference. There are many shops in LA that sell vintage jackets way above what we here are willing to pay, but there are also many folks willing to go "all in" for a great looking jacket. Free tailoring to make it fit is awesome!
There was a shop on La Brea selling vintage cafe racers for $800. I bought mine for $100. Do I fault the store? Not at all.

Marc mndt · Mar 18, 2021

Sherlocklooms said:
The pricing seems subjective to me. For instance I don't feel confident that I could turn around and sell the jacket for what I paid for.

I'm sure you can't . The store owner needs to make a living. A Schott or what have you that can be bought for 300 here from the TFL classifieds (private sale) would sell instore for 500 or more.

dwilson · Mar 18, 2021

My assumption is if the owner has a storefront they likely have a reasonable idea for the value of each item. They have overhead due to having said storefront so they'll need to pass that cost onto the consumer. I highly doubt you'd walk out of the store with a screaming deal unless you know more than the shop owner (and it is their job to know this stuff.). It is probably like if you go to an antique store expecting a garage-style deal. It just isn't going to happen usually.

"Ripped off" is also subjective. Sometimes it is best to pay that extra %20-25 upcharge for being at brick or mortar to try on the garment and get a feel for it on your body. But if you find a make/model that works for you I'd assume you could find it cheaper on the auction sites.

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead · Mar 18, 2021

handymike said:
Please PM me with the store...that way I have a frame of reference. There are many shops in LA that sell vintage jackets way above what we here are willing to pay, but there are also many folks willing to go "all in" for a great looking jacket. Free tailoring to make it fit is awesome!

same here. I have no idea what store you're talking about. Although if the cheapest is $600, that doesn't necessarily sound like a good deal.

A few weeks ago I was at Salvation Army donating a bunch of stuff. I look over into one of the other baskets and sure enough a Walter Dyer jacket was sitting on top. Looked like in decent shape, but very 70s. I was tempted to go back to the store and see what else might be inside but was in a hurry. I think they sell jackets for $10 if I'm not mistaken. Something like that would be great, but what are the odds?

El Marro · Mar 19, 2021

Marc mndt said:
I'm sure you can't . The store owner needs to make a living. A Schott or what have you that can be bought for 300 here from the TFL classifieds (private sale) would sell instore for 500 or more.

You beat me to it Marc, I had come back to address this very point from the original post. It is certainly possible to sell a jacket for as much or more than you paid but only if you get a good deal on it in the first place.
In my opinion this is the least important consideration when evaluating a jacket. Instead try to fund something you love that fits so damn well you wouldn’t sell it for any price!

Will Zach · Mar 19, 2021

Tough question. I think you will save yourself a LOT of trial and error by buying vintage off the rack. That must be worth something. These things are notoriously difficult fits. But that will cost you. Difficult to say how much - maybe double compared to a price you'd pay in classifieds here. But unless you know your body measurements to a t, and the jacket is measured properly, chances are the jacket you'd buy here will not fit perfectly. So you save yourself a hassle by buying off the rack. Your best bet is to choose the jacket you love that fits well, note the maker on the label, take a few pics and post it here. Experts here will tell you in no time if you are about to pay $2000 for a Lesco that is worth $150 or a Buco that is worth $1500.

robrinay · Mar 19, 2021

What was said above with a small addition. Find the one (or those), you love in the shop that fits. Note the maker and the size (or pit to pit if no size label), and search for it privately eg Craig’s list eBay, Etsy etc. The chances are you’ll get it much cheaper.

tmitchell59 · Mar 19, 2021

I don't know the business you are referring to. I would like to visit such a warehouse with racks of Vintage Leather Jacket. The idea of offering alterations is a bit puzzling to me. I collect leather jackets and could offer a lot of advice, but not sure where to start.

here is a link to my youtube channel. I have lots of vintage jackets on there. It will give you an idea of style, leathers, brands, condition.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzjVmJA66GhDYYOvXXKHBlw

My Scooter · Mar 19, 2021

I when in doubt, It's best to do your homework! Try to view the sold items on e-bay is a good start. Also remember, smaller sizes will sell for less money than larger more popular sizes. The bottom line here is to do your homework! It's not what someone asks that determines price, it's what someone is willing to pay!

handymike · Mar 19, 2021

robrinay said:
What was said above with a small addition. Find the one (or those), you love in the shop that fits. Note the maker and the size (or pit to pit if no size label), and search for it privately eg Craig’s list eBay, Etsy etc. The chances are you’ll get it much cheaper.

I followed this path, I first saw a Kehoe in the shop I mentioned (alongside Brooks, Schott, and Fidelity). I knew right away the brand was the one for me. It took a few years before I found one online (the fit isn’t as good as the one in the store). If time is money, I would have done better to buy it then and there. In hindsight- I probably should have.

My Scooter · Mar 19, 2021

You know the old saying "hindsight is 20 - 20"! You never forgot that jacket you passed! I'm sure if one thinks back, you can come up with at least 5 times where that "old saying" comes into play!

dwilson · Mar 19, 2021

handymike said:
I followed this path, I first saw a Kehoe in the shop I mentioned (alongside Brooks, Schott, and Fidelity). I knew right away the brand was the one for me. It took a few years before I found one online (the fit isn’t as good as the one in the store). If time is money, I would have done better to buy it then and there. In hindsight- I probably should have.

There is something to be said about the thrill of the hunt, though.

handymike · Mar 19, 2021

Yes...and no

robrinay · Mar 19, 2021

handymike said:
I followed this path, I first saw a Kehoe in the shop I mentioned (alongside Brooks, Schott, and Fidelity). I knew right away the brand was the one for me. It took a few years before I found one online (the fit isn’t as good as the one in the store). If time is money, I would have done better to buy it then and there. In hindsight- I probably should have.

You’re correct of course when it comes to rarities but for the more common brands it’ll work.

Flying Monkey · Mar 24, 2021

The hunt is at least half of the fun for me. I chuckle all the way out to the car after finding something good at a thrift store. As far as learning about leather, read the threads that pertain to what you are interested in on this site. There are people here who share information you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else. I've been reading and learning here for years.

How do I buy a vintage leather riding jacket and not get ripped off?

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