Aunt's Suit Project

Something just fell into my lap: my wife's Polish aunt has recently finished a sewing course that lasted several months. The end project was a suit. She made one for her husband but he didn't like it for some reason. (It's way too small for me.) Now she wants to make another suit.

She will make anything I want but is understandably afraid to do anything with stripes or windowpane as she doesn't think she can make them even. So I'm trying to think of what I want. I have 3 suits from the 1940s and I love the heavy wool, so that settles that -- I'll find the heaviest wool available.
1.) Where can I get such wool, though?

2.) What patterns are available?

3.) I think I want a belted back. I have photos (from the Lounge) of this, but what about a belted back that actually has a belt that you tie in front? Are there pictures of this somewhere? Do any of you have this sort of thing and if so, can you comment on it?

4.) Are paper patterns available for nice wide-leg cuffed pants, or should she improvise?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. She wants me to email her photos.

I am doing a very similar project, though my mom and I will be the ones making the suit.

To answer your questions:
1. Like you, I wanted a heavy wool for my suit but could not find any. I had to settle for a heavy cotton twill that will do the job:

However, there are a couple websites that do sell the type of wool you are looking for. Unfortunately I do not have the addresses to them, maybe someone who does will chime in.

Edit: quoted from another thread:

or do like MK and order some Holland and Sherry UK fabric on the Internet in 14 oz.

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2. If you look on ebay once in a while you can find a vintage men's suit (or at least jacket and vest) pattern. This is what I did. But it may take a while to stumble across one.

Also, I have seen several modern patterns for men's suits in fabric stores like "Joan's Fabrics", though Wal-Mart has none.

3. I can't answer this.

4. I was able to find a wide-leg cuffed and pleated trouser pattern at "Joan's Fabrics" so you should be able to do the same at similar fabric stores.

However, if you cannot find a pattern for such trousers you could use a correct vintage pair(or modern for that matter) as a guide. Making wide-legged trousers from scratch should not be too difficult.


Hope this helps and good luck on it.

Thanks, Thunder! Anyone else?

Other FLers would know far more than I do about this, but a belt-back sounds like a very intricate and difficult job...Perhaps it'd be wise to lay off the beltback for the first time??

slicedbread said:

Other FLers would know far more than I do about this, but a belt-back sounds like a very intricate and difficult job...Perhaps it'd be wise to lay off the beltback for the first time??

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She might be up for it.

Sounds like a fun project.

A belt back has to sit at the right point on your waist. Working with the tailor in person can remedy any potential problems.

As for a wrap around belt, would you be interested in having a two tone Hollywood styled jacket/suit made?

You can combine a wool gabardine with houndstooth to great effect!

Belt back?

I have not actually made one, but a belt-back would probably be relatively simple. Keep in mind the original suit jackets with this detail were unlined in the back- you can see everything!

IN short, the jacket is wider than needed, so you dart it in towards the waistline. These darts are then covered by a "belt", that is, a piece of fabric sewn on top. In some cases the upper and lower portions of the suit are two separate pieces; obviously a pattern will do the work for you, but some math/science/ trial n error would help- the belt will cover the gap, plus seam allowances on the belt (top and bottom) plus seam allowances on the joining sides of the jacket panels.

Maybe someone could post a picture of a belt back from the inside?
Don't be fooled though, suits are hell to make.

Feraud said:

A belt back has to sit at the right point on your waist.

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Or often just a little bit above it. Mine seem to hit even with the middle button (both are 3 button), a skosh' above the navel.

Fletch said:

Or often just a little bit above it. Mine seem to hit even with the middle button (both are 3 button), a skosh' above the navel.

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Sounds right. It makes sense for the belt to align with the higher rise of vintage styled pants just at the natural waist.

Here is an example.