Sewing Lessons & FAQ

Miss Neecerie · Jul 30, 2008

Miss 1929 said:
Most of them are going over to live at Theresa La Quey's house this afternoon, as she will then be able to help me adjust any I still really desire, but...I may have a perfect thing for you!

PM me your address and measurements. I will keep them secret!

Not needed...I was just giving you a hard time for needing a smaller size when I keep needing bigger ones

Lady Day · Jul 30, 2008

Miss 1929 said:

This is a wonderful pattern, and I do so need a 30s suit patten.....

Could we arrange a swap for a chance for me to trace it?

LD

(Ill PM you

)

Laura Chase · Jul 30, 2008

Miss 1929, I think that pattern is very dreamy, and how lucky you are, slimming down without noticing.

Were you pleased when you discovered it? I'm currently slimming down myself, have gained about 10 pounds during this last semester at school (bit of a tough one).

Anyway, I have a question for you ladies. ShrinkingViolet and I spent the afternoon today drafting up a A-line skirt for me, consisting of 4 gores. We picked a simple one to practice on because I'm a novice at changing patterns, we had to draft it up a couple of sizes. So, while doing this, we talked about choosing fabrics and how difficult this can be. Are there any thumb rules to follow when choosing a fabric for a specific pattern, in order to get it draping the right way and all that? I'm a beginner and have made a couple of mistakes in choosing fabrics and ended up with stiff skirts and seams, unflattering draping and so forth...

Lady Day · Jul 30, 2008

Most patterns have fabric suggestions on the envelope that would work well with said pattern. Its completely personal choice, but you might want a stiffer, or more flowing fabric then recommended.

LD

Miss 1929 · Jul 30, 2008

You betcha!

Lady Day said:
This is a wonderful pattern, and I do so need a 30s suit patten..... Could we arrange a swap for a chance for me to trace it?

LD

(Ill PM you )

I will probably be done with it in a week or so, and you have patterns to die for in my size range!

I actually already took the pattern off the muslin already, so let me just get done with it and it can become part of the Great Pattern Swap.

I saved out a few of the big size ones that I plan to copy for me (and re-size) and then those will be up for sharing too. I am desperately trying to make stuff for the Queen Mary!

Sunny · Jul 31, 2008

Laura Chase said:
Anyway, I have a question for you ladies. ShrinkingViolet and I spent the afternoon today drafting up a A-line skirt for me, consisting of 4 gores. We picked a simple one to practice on because I'm a novice at changing patterns, we had to draft it up a couple of sizes. So, while doing this, we talked about choosing fabrics and how difficult this can be. Are there any thumb rules to follow when choosing a fabric for a specific pattern, in order to get it draping the right way and all that? I'm a beginner and have made a couple of mistakes in choosing fabrics and ended up with stiff skirts and seams, unflattering draping and so forth...

What Lady Day said.

Without having seen the pattern, I recommend something less drapey, like lightweight quilting cotton. It's easy to cut out and sew together because it holds still, but it's not going to be stiff. Definitely steer clear of anything "silky." That stuff slithers across the table, away from pins, and off your machine like it's alive. It'll have you tearing your hair out. It's lovely stuff when it's finished, but not fun to sew on and definitely not something to learn on. It sounds like you've already learned not to use stuff that's too stiff. The good news is that A-line skirts don't really need much drape, so they tend to handle stiffer fabrics better than other designs. Go for something light- or medium-weight that doesn't stick straight out when you hang it over your arm, and you should be good.

ShortClara · Aug 2, 2008

Best Way to Copy a Pattern?

Gorgeous Ladies,

I have a pattern I want to copy for the amazing Dead Pan Diva - what's the best thing to use? Muslin? Some kid of paper?

Thanks!

Lady Day · Aug 2, 2008

I use tracing paper and a sharpie. Its cheaper then the special paper you can ge for tracing patterns. Some ladies use wrapping paper, wax paper, muslin etc etc.

S'up to you.

LD

Sunny · Aug 2, 2008

And I use Do-Sew, similar to lightweight non-fusible interfacing. It can't tear, ink works really well (unlike some chain-store stuff), it can be ironed on low heat, and it can be sewn on. My mother and I use it for years and now order it in four-roll increments.

ShoreRoadLady · Aug 3, 2008

ShortClara said:
Gorgeous Ladies,

I have a pattern I want to copy for the amazing Dead Pan Diva - what's the best thing to use? Muslin? Some kid of paper?

Thanks!

I use a great huge roll of butcher paper I purchased at a bulk grocery store some time back. It cost less than $8 and has lasted *forever*!

For tracing patterns for myself, I use a fine mechanical pencil. When I want it to be permanent, an ultra fine point Sharpie works well.

Laura Chase · Aug 3, 2008

Sunny and Lady Day, thank you so much for the answers, I think I should just chose the fabric they recommend on the package, to be on the safe side.

As a side note, can you still buy nice crepe-fabrics today? I have never seen them in the shops here in Copenhagen (the selection is quite poor here).

Alright ladies, I just got this pattern and took a look at it to see if all pieces were there. The cuff is missing, but that should be easy to recreate. There is also a skirt piece too much, a double. [huh]

When do you think this pattern is from? The number on it is 407, I remember something about a database where you can look it up, but I can't find the link.

I have some questions, especially regarding the perforations since the instructions are missing, and this is my first vintage pattern.

1. Small round holes, not only on the edges (otherwise I'd think it was seam allowance), but also in the middle.

2. The 4 skirt parts have different letters on them: L, S, R, P. What do these mean? The blouse parts also have letters, but these are just F and B, so I guess just front and back? These are the only ones that make sense to me. The pocket has the letter Y on it, I don't quite understand that. The short sleeve says J. And so forth. Are these simply a way to give the pieces different names, not necessarily meaning anything without the instructions?

3. How do I figure out which parts are what, as you can see, 3 of the 4 skirt parts are very similar...

4. Can someone tell me what the waist and hip sizes are for a Hollywood pattern bust size 40? This is not stated on the envelope, I guess it stood in the instructions.

Sigh, I shouldn't have bought a pattern without instructions!

kamikat · Aug 3, 2008

Laura Chase said:
As a side note, can you still buy nice crepe-fabrics today? I have never seen them in the shops here in Copenhagen (the selection is quite poor here).

Are you looking for wool crepe? I don't know if www.fabric.com ships to you, but I've always had good luck finding nice wools. This pattern would also look nice in a rayon challis, which may be easier to find.

1. Small round holes, not only on the edges (otherwise I'd think it was seam allowance), but also in the middle.

I think down the middle indicates direction of the grain of the fabric.

2. The 4 skirt parts have different letters on them: L, S, R, P. What do these mean? The blouse parts also have letters, but these are just F and B, so I guess just front and back? These are the only ones that make sense to me. The pocket has the letter Y on it, I don't quite understand that. The short sleeve says J. And so forth. Are these simply a way to give the pieces different names, not necessarily meaning anything without the instructions?

yes, I think you are correct

4. Can someone tell me what the waist and hip sizes are for a Hollywood pattern bust size 40? This is not stated on the envelope, I guess it stood in the instructions.

Generally a size 40 would have a 40in bust and 42in hip.

Sigh, I shouldn't have bought a pattern without instructions!

I don't know, it's a lovely dress! Do you have experience with modern patterns? If so, you should be able to figure out it, just go slowly and don't worry about making mistakes in the process.

Lady Day · Aug 3, 2008

Measure the skirt patten pieces (subtracting seam allowance) and you have your waist measurement of the garment.

Look up in the sticky for vintage size measurements. The hips of most skirts are generally 3-5" above the bust measurement.

L S R P are just the letter markings on the pattern. Old patters are marked by letter, not by description.

Its the skirt you are going to mess up on, because those gores are cut slightly different to drape against a specific other gore to create a specific curve. You can try and see if there are matching holes to line up the skirt goes, other then that with no instructions Id say that is your best bet.

All that said, the world wont end if you mess up your skirt.
Good luck,

LD

Laura Chase · Aug 3, 2008

kamikat and Lady Day, thank you so much, that was very helpful! And encouraging.

Lady Day, you're right, the skirt is a tough one, the 8 gores scare me a little, but I think I will be able to figure the skirt out by looking at the perforations and seeing how the pieces are supposed to be put together.

kamikat, I've only made two pieces of clothing ever before, so I don't have much experience with modern patterns. I am currently working on a simple A-line skirt from a vintage pattern, but it only has 4 gores, which makes it much simpler than this skirt, which has 8 gores. It'll be a nice challenge, I'll make it in muslin first. And I think I shall try and find another Hollywood pattern with instructions.

If anyone has a scan of Hollywood pattern instructions, I would be happy to see it!

Does anyone have a link to the website where you can look up patterns by number to see which year they are from? If such a website exists...

Sunny · Aug 4, 2008

Laura Chase said:
Does anyone have a link to the website where you can look up patterns by number to see which year they are from? If such a website exists...

This is the one I like best. It only goes back to about 1940, but it's not too challenging to guess on a lot of 1930s patterns by working backward.

http://reviews.ebay.com/Dating-Vintage-Sewing-Patterns-by-Number-1939-1960_W0QQugidZ10000000002192625

According to it, Hollywood 407 is from 1940. The puffed sleeves and gathered fronts had been popular in the late 1930s. The full, short skirt by itself is almost enough to date it exactly. 1938 skirts were longer, and 1941 skirts were straighter.

Laura Chase · Aug 4, 2008

Sunny said:
This is the one I like best. It only goes back to about 1940, but it's not too challenging to guess on a lot of 1930s patterns by working backward.

http://reviews.ebay.com/Dating-Vintage-Sewing-Patterns-by-Number-1939-1960_W0QQugidZ10000000002192625

According to it, Hollywood 407 is from 1940. The puffed sleeves and gathered fronts had been popular in the late 1930s. The full, short skirt by itself is almost enough to date it exactly. 1938 skirts were longer, and 1941 skirts were straighter.

Ooh, impressive! Thank you Sunny, highly helpful link.

Joie DeVive · Aug 4, 2008

Laura Chase said:
1. Small round holes, not only on the edges (otherwise I'd think it was seam allowance), but also in the middle.

2. The 4 skirt parts have different letters on them: L, S, R, P. What do these mean? The blouse parts also have letters, but these are just F and B, so I guess just front and back? These are the only ones that make sense to me. The pocket has the letter Y on it, I don't quite understand that. The short sleeve says J. And so forth. Are these simply a way to give the pieces different names, not necessarily meaning anything without the instructions?

3. How do I figure out which parts are what, as you can see, 3 of the 4 skirt parts are very similar...

4. Can someone tell me what the waist and hip sizes are for a Hollywood pattern bust size 40? This is not stated on the envelope, I guess it stood in the instructions.

Ok, I just pulled our one of my 1940s Holly wood patterns.

1- It says that the symbols used are:

1/2" Seamlines (allowance) indicate by large holes (close to edges mostly)
Notches are seam joinings (as in, line them up)
Three small holes in a triangular configuration means lay this edge on a fold for cutting.
Two large holes down the middle of a piece (usually pretty far apart and with no other obvious purpose) are straight of goods. (In other words, draw a line between the dots and line the fabric grain up with it. Analogous to the big arrows on modern patterns)
Two smaller dots together or a diamond are special instructions. (Those are individual to the directions, sorry , but some of the ones on mine aren't too hard to figure out. They include: cut here for short sleeves- pairs of them running across it, center back, waistline, and center front)

4-
Bust 40
Waist 34
Hips 43

Laura Chase · Aug 4, 2008

Joie DeVive, you are an angel! Thanks so much!

Joie DeVive · Aug 4, 2008

Laura Chase said:
Joie DeVive, you are an angel! Thanks so much!

You're most welcome.
Unprinted patterns can be tricky enough. I'm glad to be able to give you a bit of a guide!

Ok, now I have a question. I just bought a bag at an estate sale. The ribbon handle has a problem. It's splitting or raveling, like this:

You can see the lining for the handle through the ribbon at the edge (the lighter spots further down the handle are just reflection, not wear). Any ideas on how to mend/fix it?? I'd like to keep the handle intact rather than replace it if I can.

Miss 1929 · Aug 6, 2008

Purses are hard!

Joie DeVive said:
Ok, now I have a question. I just bought a bag at an estate sale. The ribbon handle has a problem. It's splitting or raveling, like this:

You can see the lining for the handle through the ribbon at the edge (the lighter spots further down the handle are just reflection, not wear). Any ideas on how to mend/fix it?? I'd like to keep the handle intact rather than replace it if I can.

I think the only easy fix will be to paint the lining black and glue down the fraying bits of the handle. What I would give for the proper tool to open the frame and clamp it shut again! I have many dead purses I would like to restore.
Right now I am working on a particularly hard one - it has an excellent jeweled and enameled frame, it is covered with tiny black micro beads, and the back side of the purse has pulled out of the frame. No kind of glue has worked to hold it in there yet. There are no tiny holes to sew it to. So I am improvising, by putting a LOT of hot glue in the frame (it's like a deep groove or pocket) and then embedding a piece of a black plastic folder in the glue, then I will try sewing the purse body to that and we shall see if it holds. I doubt that it will once there is anything in the purse! Grr.

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