My vintage leather jacket and I are reunited after 14 years apart!!

Preacher · Apr 2, 2010

re: zipper

Navin:
Let me check my stash, I have a BUNCH of zippers from leather projects, ( I buy old beat leather items, i.e., luggage /suitbags/etc )at thrift stores to cut apart and make new "vintage" items from. My wife also is a seamstress and has a bunch. It might not be Conmar, but it will be old. As soon as I know either way, I will post here. (have not been here long enough to use private messages.)
Blessings,

HighandDry · Apr 2, 2010

Great story Navin! I would restore the jacket, but hold off on the dying. Try some nice leather cleaner/conditioner (Pecards, etc) and see how it does. If you still don't like it, you can re-dye it later!

Steve

Pushrod · Apr 2, 2010

Very sharp jacket Navin, I think it fits you great. It's cool you were able to get it back. If it were mine I think I'd repair the sleeve and condition the leather and wear it. It has character that no modern antiqued leather process can duplicate.

JoeNiblick · Apr 2, 2010

I'm with the guys who say NO to the dying. You'll destroy the vintage character!

Navin323i · Apr 2, 2010

Speedbird said:
Well done! A note of caution regarding dating by hardware alone .... 'just in time' stock control in the manufacturing business is a relatively new principle ... many factories would stock in bulk hardware like zips (for the cost efficiencies gained through large orders and also woefully bad production/sales forecasting) - this is not just clothes, but cars etc - take Ford for example The net result is a zipper made and purchased in the 50's may not make it onto a jacket for a decade or more!!! That's how come 'new old stock' items are available even now. That said, I think your jacket is still 60's at youngest and maybe even older, possibly 50's as Pip suggests. It's the side elastic thingy that makes me slightly think a little younger. But someone like Baron Kurtz would have a much better idea.

You should be able to source a replacement original Conmar zip - maybe someone like ASWATLAND could help point you in the right direction if you ask the question on the forum .... if you follow his posts you will see he regularly restores original and/or improves repros by fitting original NOS zips. So they are out there if you know where to look!

Good luck!

PS: don't dye it .... condition the leather and the marks will be less vivid ... they give it the unique patina of age that dyeing will obscure. This is a vintage jacket afterall - it has a history not entirely yours but that is kind of the point. Your new Aero is the one for you to create your own personal journey with and to own every mark ... you will have the best of both worlds.

PSS: Aero have a stock of original vintage zips.... plead with them to sell you an extra vintage zip to go with your new custom Aero special!

Wow!! That's an amazing point you made about how my new Aero is the one for me to create my own personal journey and own the future marks/scratches I make in the jacket. You're so right!! I actually owe it to the previous owner(s) of my vintage Irvin Foster jacket to NOT DYE IT and preserve the jacket history and patina that we all strive for. I will get the lining replaced, seam tears all fixed, and leather cleaned and conditioned but I won't dye it... you all here have convinced me. THANK YOU ALL!!

I'll definitely talk to Aero regarding their stock of original vintage zips and see if they can stitch one on my Aero jacket on order.

Thanks for the suggestions about the Conmar zippers. I'll see about contacting ASWATLAND as you recommended. I just realized that I'd like to replace my zipper with the exact same Conmatic zipper... not just any Conmar zipper... I failed to make that point earlier.

Navin323i · Apr 2, 2010

jon z said:
Hey Navin. Nice jacket & the fit is perfect for a vintage piece.

Definitely 50s. Have the lining replaced by all means but please don't have the leather dyed. There's years of history & character in that patina that money just can't buy. Just treat the leather with a good quality conditioner. You'll find this will invigorate it & it will feel slightly looser to wear as well.

That area you've circled in blue was originally a stretchable gathered section achieved by the sewing of an elastic strip on the reverse of the leather. It appears the elastic in yours has perished with time allowing the gathering to relax. Here's a pic of my Penney's half belt to show how it should look.

If your tailor is any good he should be able to fix this while he has the lining out.

Here's a link to a Japanese site.

http://www.mash-japan.co.jp/oversea/eng_repair/index_eng_repair.html

The guy that runs this will probably be able to help out with a replacement zipper. It may not be the same but at least it will be a nice period zipper rather than going down the route of using a modern item with plastic teeth that will ruin the integrity of your jacket. Don't worry if the zipper tape is not black as that is easily dyed. I've used him in the past & found him very friendly & helpful.

Good luck
John

Hey John!

Great to meet you! I will heed your excellent advice and not get the jacket dyed. Thank you so much for attaching that picture with the elasticized area... I will take that picture to my leather guy to see if he can restore it in my jacket.

In the event that he cannot, should I be concerned and find someone else to restore it? If I decided not to get that elastic area restored is that ok? I know that sounds like a dumb question but my concern is if the elasticity is restored then maybe the jacket won't fit me as good as it does now and it might accentuate my large belly area influenced highly by my abdominal hernia (hole in the abdominal muscle resulting in my "innards" protruding thru the hole and causing a bulge that looks like it's fat but isn't... surgery is the only option to correct it).

Thanks for that site link... I'll definitely check it out, my friend. Thank you so much for your time and help.

Navin323i · Apr 2, 2010

Preacher said:
Navin:
Let me check my stash, I have a BUNCH of zippers from leather projects, ( I buy old beat leather items, i.e., luggage /suitbags/etc )at thrift stores to cut apart and make new "vintage" items from. My wife also is a seamstress and has a bunch. It might not be Conmar, but it will be old. As soon as I know either way, I will post here. (have not been here long enough to use private messages.)
Blessings,

Thank you so much!!! Hopefully you or your wife might have the specific Conmar zipper I'm looking for... says "Conmatic" on it just like in the link that I posted earlier in my thread here. What a great hobby you have in finding stuff at thrift stores to cut apart the zippers.

Blessings to you and your family too. I feel blessed being here to interact with you all... such a nice, friendly, and helpful group you all are... thanks again!!

Navin323i · Apr 2, 2010

HighandDry said:
Great story Navin! I would restore the jacket, but hold off on the dying. Try some nice leather cleaner/conditioner (Pecards, etc) and see how it does. If you still don't like it, you can re-dye it later!

Steve

Thanks Steve!!! You all have convinced me not to dye it... I'll preserve its vintage look but still get the critical stuff fixed like the lining replaced, seam tears fixed, and oh yeah... those storm cuffs removed. I've decided to have them removed.

Navin323i · Apr 2, 2010

Pushrod said:
Very sharp jacket Navin, I think it fits you great. It's cool you were able to get it back. If it were mine I think I'd repair the sleeve and condition the leather and wear it. It has character that no modern antiqued leather process can duplicate.

Hey there! Thank you so much for the kind words, my friend. I'll heed your advice and not dye the leather. That way I can preserve its character.

Navin323i · Apr 2, 2010

JoeNiblick said:
I'm with the guys who say NO to the dying. You'll destroy the vintage character!

Hey Joe!

You're so right, my friend. You've all convinced me not to have the jacket dyed... my new motto, "JUST SAY NO TO DYEING", haha!!

Take it easy,

Navin

Navin323i · Apr 2, 2010

jon z said:
Hey Navin. Nice jacket & the fit is perfect for a vintage piece.

Definitely 50s. Have the lining replaced by all means but please don't have the leather dyed. There's years of history & character in that patina that money just can't buy. Just treat the leather with a good quality conditioner. You'll find this will invigorate it & it will feel slightly looser to wear as well.

That area you've circled in blue was originally a stretchable gathered section achieved by the sewing of an elastic strip on the reverse of the leather. It appears the elastic in yours has perished with time allowing the gathering to relax. Here's a pic of my Penney's half belt to show how it should look.

If your tailor is any good he should be able to fix this while he has the lining out.

Here's a link to a Japanese site.

http://www.mash-japan.co.jp/oversea/eng_repair/index_eng_repair.html

The guy that runs this will probably be able to help out with a replacement zipper. It may not be the same but at least it will be a nice period zipper rather than going down the route of using a modern item with plastic teeth that will ruin the integrity of your jacket. Don't worry if the zipper tape is not black as that is easily dyed. I've used him in the past & found him very friendly & helpful.

Good luck
John

Hi John! I checked out that japanese site... very cool! They do carry the Conmar zippers but not the Conmatic one that I have.

I wonder... if I purchase one of the Conmar zippers that the japanese site sells (most of those Conmars appear to be from military style jackets from the 50s) then would that be a suitable replacement zipper assuming that my goal is to replace my current zipper with something equivalent and true from my jacket's era?

jon z · Apr 2, 2010

Hi Navin. Nice to be able to help. Regarding the elasticated sides I would say it's a matter of your personal preference as to whether or not you have it repaired. I would say either way if your tailor's not up to it I'd look elsewhere else to do any other work done on your jacket. Having the elastic reinstated will cause the jacket to fit tighter. Personally I like the snug fit it results in but each to his own.

Mash should be able to help you out with the zipper. Providing they can supply a Conmar of the same period with the same teeth size/pattern you can simply transfer the slider from your existing zipper to the 'new' one. It wont matter whether or not it is intended for military or civilian use.
John

pipvh · Apr 3, 2010

Speaking of elasticated sides...

Another jacket by Irvin Foster from the 1940s (apparently) with elasticated sides here:

http://www.american-vintage.net/jackleather.html

BigHairyFinn · Apr 3, 2010

pipvh said:
Another jacket by Irvin Foster from the 1940s (apparently) with elasticated sides here:

*dang* thats like a history museum... anyone else dig Item 5926JL4

jon z · Apr 3, 2010

I'm with you on that one.

Speedbird · Apr 4, 2010

Excellent website - well done Pip for sharing - their prices seem reasonable too! I guess I am just figuring out the US is awash with these types of jacket, much more so than the UK so there is more choice and more avaialable!

I like the HH half-belt - but I am particularly taken by the green/yellow Thunderbirds varsity jacket as well!

I have bookmarked the site!

JoeNiblick · Apr 5, 2010

pipvh said:
Speaking of elasticated sides...

Another jacket by Irvin Foster from the 1940s (apparently) with elasticated sides here:

http://www.american-vintage.net/jackleather.html

Great website, especially if you're looking for something with fringe!

Navin323i · Apr 5, 2010

Thanks for posting that site link, pipvh.

Yeah, I'm definitely not going to bother getting that elasticized area restored... not worth it for me because then the jacket would fit too tight in my torso area. I like it a bit looser anyhow.

Hey Andrew (Speedbird)... I enquired with Aero for the vintage zipper on my Aero jacket on order and unfortunately it's $100 extra for the vintage Talon zipper they have... too much money just for a zipper so I'll just stick with their standard modern zipper... 50 years from now when I'm still wearing my Aero jacket that modern zipper will become vintage anyhow, haha!

Speedbird · Apr 6, 2010

very wise!

Navin323i · Apr 6, 2010

^^^ Thanks Andrew.

Well, I just got off the phone with the sales rep from Pecards... I went ahead and ordered myself their antique leather dressing in 16oz size so I should have it later this week in my hands.

What I found interesting is that Pecards leather dressing is a petroleum-based product. Every site that I've seen in terms of leather jacket care indicates not to use petroleum based products or silicone based products, but this should be fine for my vintage Irvin jacket because the tanning process used for this vintage leather most likely is oil based according to the sales rep, plus they use USP-grade petroleum so it's supposed to be safe for the leather.

I was told to use light coats of the product and will put the 1st coat on, wait for 24 hours then put the next coat. Not sure how many coats I'll do... maybe just 2 coats?

My vintage leather jacket and I are reunited after 14 years apart!!

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