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  1. Boinciel

    Is a black waistcoat acceptable with White Tie?

    Black waistcoats with white tie completely disappeared during the 1930s as tailcoat fronts grew shorter, and white tie dress code stuck that way. I don't mind the look, but I think that a white waistcoat is much nicer-looking. Your mileage may vary.
  2. Boinciel

    Lapel width of 1930s through to early 1950s mens suits

    Here are my sweet spots (I'm about a 37R): SB Notch: 3.75" is ideal, though I consider anywhere from 3.25" to 4" to be almost as nice. 3" is the bare bare minimum of what I consider wearable. SB Peak: 4" is the best; it can be half an inch to either side of that depending on the cut of the...
  3. Boinciel

    The Thread to Display Your 1940s Suits

    Almost impossible, but not impossible impossible if you're talking specifically tuxedos. If you had a large enough selection of orphan jackets/pants to look through there would likely be something in there that would be passable for facing/pocket flap fabric. I've been on the lookout for local...
  4. Boinciel

    Show us your TIES

    Mid 20s to early 30s. That stitching is there to hold the interlining in place and reinforce the long seam in that area. If you open up the tie or just stick your fingers between the interlining and the back seam, chances are that the interlining is just going to be in there loose and not...
  5. Boinciel

    Vintage Workwear

    Make sure you throw some unrelated cloth scraps into the lot and label it as PATCHWORK and HOBO to raise the price.
  7. Boinciel

    XXL 1947 dated British suit (48" chest)

    The construction style, buttons, and lining materials look much older than 1965, but the jacket styling is extremely odd for a custom suit in '47. R. H. Childs, Esq. probably was a middle-aged gentleman who wanted a new suit constructed the same way his older suits were but not have the jacket...
  8. Boinciel

    Collar Bars

    I'd be wary of 100% cotton collar bars that are to be clipped halfway down the tie.
  9. Boinciel

    1920s suits

    What's the stitching on the undercollar like?
  10. Boinciel

    Pocket flaps on suit coats

    I think it might be possible to "save" a well-made 70s jacket by shortening the flaps to around 2" long, rather than removing them outright.
  11. Boinciel

    The Tie Clasps... With chains...

    If the bar is plain and undecorated (or a simple loop of wire), the bar clips over the shirt and narrow end of the tie and holds the wide end. If the bar is decorated with some kind of engraving or looks like a tie bar that just happens to have a chain, then it's up to you whether you use it...
  13. Boinciel

    Suits - Pre 1920

    I grabbed the source file for the top one and fiddled around with it. Here's a higher-resolution, saturated version.
  14. Boinciel

    Help in dating Japanese pants

    Definitely earlier than the 40s. I'm guessing early to mid-30s. The exact same style of pants made an appearance in the drama Junjo Kirari in some of the pre-war episodes. I don't have a good shot of the back of the pants, but it's a practically identical style of deep V terminating in a...
  15. Boinciel

    Wedding Morning Wear

    Here's my take on it (untailored and unpressed as of yet, the hems of the pants need to be let down and I need to find proper boots and a top hat). Of course, my own eventual wedding is so far off that it'll be ages before I have the chance to wear these... The coat itself is from 1920...
  16. Boinciel

    What was the last TV show you watched?

    Junjo Kirari, a very nice Japanese drama about the life of a famous jazz pianist. It has a severe lack of accurate neckties or collared shirts; only about 1 in 6 of the suits actually might be vintage.
  17. Boinciel

    British Army 'Air Travel' suit - 1950s

    The angle the lapels are cut at suggests a 3-roll-2 buttoning configuration instead of the standard British 3-button configuration.
  19. Boinciel

    Show us your TIES

    Let's get some conservatively striped vintage ties in here! They're a true rarity. Some even have the original tags! The majority of these are from a lot of vintage ties I snapped up in an antique store for $15 total. I don't think I paid more than $5 for the brown one or the bowtie...
  20. Boinciel

    1920s suits

    Could it be a back belted jacket that has the belt go inside of the jacket through the side seams?
  21. Boinciel

    Show us your TIES

    Oddly enough, I have a single necktie with the usual of untipped/machine stitched ends construction as 20s/30s ties with bulky lining in it. It's marked as a resilient necktie, and seems to have the original wool interlining still in it. It seemed like it had been slimmed down in the 1960s for...
  22. Boinciel

    Romanian Fashions in the mid-20th Century

    The next time I find a really faded jacket that fits well, I'll consider trying this. An argument for two chest pockets in general, no?
  23. Boinciel

    Show us your SHOES !!!

    I've had two pairs of their Madison shoes, and I can vouch for the fact that they're badly made shoes. They have a welted leather sole (thankfully) and a great shape, but the leather they're made with is cheap corrected grain and painted stuff. It doesn't stand up to wear at all, and the toes...

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